Removing Cylinder Head advice

[labradorian70]

I believe im posting is the right area and not the Tech forum,....

I'm about to remove the cylinder head of my 2012 supertenere for the first time and just have a few questions.

I do have the service manual but its can be a little vague.

1. Do i need to drain the coolant? I disconnected the hose on the rear side of the cylinder head and drained what i could from the hose.
2. I unbolted the exhaust pipes from the cylinder head. but Can the cylinder head slide off without having to remove the entire exhaust system?
3. Do i need to support the motor when removing the bolts on the sides of the cylinder head attached to the frame?
4. To get at the smaller cylinder head bolts #1 and 2(see service manual) between the timing chain and the housing where the battery etc is, Im assuming this whole housing has to be removed, or will it swing out of the way enough to get at those bolts.


The reason I'm removing the Cylinder head is because the chain tensioner failed and the timing chain jumped and I'm certain my valves impacted the pistons. I was 4300kms into a 6000km trip(though Newfoundland and Labrador) last july when i went to start the bike and heard a clunk. and it stopped cranking. At the time I thought the starter has siezed or something... I put on a power pack to help crank and that's when the valves contacted the pistons. (not knowing the timing chain had jumped)

After removing the cylinder head cover i checked the timing and it was indeed off.
So i want to see what damage there is.

Any tips are greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[gv550]

I've never done this job but my thoughts are it would be best to remove the engine from the bike. Definitely drain the coolant from the engine and remove the exhaust headers.

 

[Squibb]

I don't recall us having a walkthrough thread on here, but this may help: -

........ https://thetenerist.wordpress.com/2017/03/04/yamaha-super-tenere-xt-1200-top-end-rebuild/

The degree of carnage will depend on how much cranking you did before you realised what had happened. Good luck.

 

[labradorian70]

I don't recall us having a walkthrough thread on here, but this may help: -

........ https://thetenerist.wordpress.com/2017/03/04/yamaha-super-tenere-xt-1200-top-end-rebuild/

The degree of carnage will depend on how much cranking you did before you realised what had happened. Good luck.

Thank you Squibb

 

[labradorian70]

I've never done this job but my thoughts are it would be best to remove the engine from the bike. Definitely drain the coolant from the engine and remove the exhaust headers.

Thanks GV, Im going to drain the coolant tonight and remove the headers. Once i get the cylinder head off and see what's going on, i just may have to remove the motor. I understand its easier to work on out of the bike, but I'm stubborn lol If i got piston damage ill have to pull the motor out, if just valves damage i'll fix that. Thanks GV

 

[~TABASCO~]

I believe im posting is the right area and not the Tech forum,....

I'm about to remove the cylinder head of my 2012 supertenere for the first time and just have a few questions.

I do have the service manual but its can be a little vague.

1. Do i need to drain the coolant? I disconnected the hose on the rear side of the cylinder head and drained what i could from the hose.
2. I unbolted the exhaust pipes from the cylinder head. but Can the cylinder head slide off without having to remove the entire exhaust system?
3. Do i need to support the motor when removing the bolts on the sides of the cylinder head attached to the frame?
4. To get at the smaller cylinder head bolts #1 and 2(see service manual) between the timing chain and the housing where the battery etc is, Im assuming this whole housing has to be removed, or will it swing out of the way enough to get at those bolts.


The reason I'm removing the Cylinder head is because the chain tensioner failed and the timing chain jumped and I'm certain my valves impacted the pistons. I was 4300kms into a 6000km trip(though Newfoundland and Labrador) last july when i went to start the bike and heard a clunk. and it stopped cranking. At the time I thought the starter has siezed or something... I put on a power pack to help crank and that's when the valves contacted the pistons. (not knowing the timing chain had jumped)

After removing the cylinder head cover i checked the timing and it was indeed off.
So i want to see what damage there is.

Any tips are greatly appreciated. Thanks

Ive done this job before...

Yes drain the coolant.
I believe I did remove the exhaust even if not 100% necessary so I could have the best view and ultimately take care of the head
I did support the motor I'm sure. If I remember I had to unload those upper bolts
I think you're talking about the side cover. I took out the batter and then pivot the side cover up and out of the way. I want the most room to take everything apart.

***Note, the head studs are one-time use only.. Last time I checked they had a set in Japan. I suggest having the head gasket and bolts before starting. (along with other parts or gaskets you need)........... Also you will need a degree ratchet adapter that will show rotation degree's. I believe there are three head studs that require the proper torque and then add "30* or 20*" to the base TQ numbers... dont guess on this, use the tool.

 

[StefanOnHisS10]

Ive done this job before...

Yes drain the coolant.
I believe I did remove the exhaust even if not 100% necessary so I could have the best view and ultimately take care of the head
I did support the motor I'm sure. If I remember I had to unload those upper bolts
I think you're talking about the side cover. I took out the batter and then pivot the side cover up and out of the way. I want the most room to take everything apart.

***Note, the head studs are one-time use only.. Last time I checked they had a set in Japan. I suggest having the head gasket and bolts before starting. (along with other parts or gaskets you need)........... Also you will need a degree ratchet adapter that will show rotation degree's. I believe there are three head studs that require the proper torque and then add "30* or 20*" to the base TQ numbers... dont guess on this, use the tool.

Agreed! The right tools are important for this job. I use these from Snap-on, they do torque and angle.
*not my picture, but do own them.

@labradorian70 good luck with the job and I hope the damage isn’t too bad. Maybe insert a borescope and check through the plug holes before pulling the head?

 

[labradorian70]

Ive done this job before...

Yes drain the coolant.
I believe I did remove the exhaust even if not 100% necessary so I could have the best view and ultimately take care of the head
I did support the motor I'm sure. If I remember I had to unload those upper bolts
I think you're talking about the side cover. I took out the batter and then pivot the side cover up and out of the way. I want the most room to take everything apart.

***Note, the head studs are one-time use only.. Last time I checked they had a set in Japan. I suggest having the head gasket and bolts before starting. (along with other parts or gaskets you need)........... Also you will need a degree ratchet adapter that will show rotation degree's. I believe there are three head studs that require the proper torque and then add "30* or 20*" to the base TQ numbers... dont guess on this, use the tool.

Thanks Tabasco and Stefan UPDATE

I got the cylinder head out. I drained the coolant and blocked the motor with a jack. Bike is on its centerstand. Engine side bolts came out with ease and motor is solid.
Anyways here are some pics. I don't do this everyday and don't see obvious damage. Can the valves still be bent and look like this, do i remove them? Not sure how to check them. I do have a valve spring compressor. I should of cleaned the pistons before i took the pic, but no obvious damage. Thanks

Noted, i will get and angle tool thingy
Yeah new bolts it is. $40 or so each canadian hope they are not hard to get. I have till march or april to get them as we are winter here in Ontario Canada

 

[StefanOnHisS10]

Pfieuw that’s good news. So you could have checked with the borescope like I suggested . Unfortunately that’s to late now. What is that limescale like residue in the cilinders and in the piston?
Sincerely happy for you that there is no damage!

 

[labradorian70]

Pfieuw that’s good news. So you could have checked with the borescope like I suggested . Unfortunately that’s to late now. What is that limescale like residue in the cilinders and in the piston?
Sincerely happy for you that there is no damage!

I did actually and saw some debris in there hense why i wanted to look further. But can't tell where that debris came from. It is possible it fell in there when we were doing a compression test or after i took the intake off. But I don't see anything obvious.
The bike has been sitting since july indoors, and i took the intake off a couple of months or so ago maybe a little surface rust or what not. I'll give it a good scrub. Cheers

 

[scott123007]

Thanks Tabasco and Stefan UPDATE

I got the cylinder head out. I drained the coolant and blocked the motor with a jack. Bike is on its centerstand. Engine side bolts came out with ease and motor is solid.
Anyways here are some pics. I don't do this everyday and don't see obvious damage. Can the valves still be bent and look like this, do i remove them? Not sure how to check them. I do have a valve spring compressor. I should of cleaned the pistons before i took the pic, but no obvious damage. Thanks

Noted, i will get and angle tool thingy
Yeah new bolts it is. $40 or so each canadian hope they are not hard to get. I have till march or april to get them as we are winter here in Ontario Canada

Hard to tell by the picture, if the valves touched the pistons or not. Squirt brake cleaner or pour gasoline in each port and if it does not pass the valves, you're good.

 

[labradorian70]

Hard to tell by the picture, if the valves touched the pistons or not. Squirt brake cleaner or pour gasoline in each port and if it does not pass the valves, you're good.

alrighty. will do that. thanks scott

 

[StefanOnHisS10]

Good news so far! Rebuild and ride my friend!

 

[Tenforeplay]

Takes very little to bend a valve. Chuck the valves in a drill press and it’s easy to tell if they touched. Then on install lap them to see if they are seating full circumference.

 

[labradorian70]

Hard to tell by the picture, if the valves touched the pistons or not. Squirt brake cleaner or pour gasoline in each port and if it does not pass the valves, you're good.

I just cleaned up the pistons and added new pics, they look fine. I poured some brake cleaner down the ports and unfortunately they are leaking by. at this point it looks like new valves.

 

[labradorian70]

Takes very little to bend a valve. Chuck the valves in a drill press and it’s easy to tell if they touched. Then on install lap them to see if they are seating full circumference.

i sprayed some brake cleaner down the ports and im getting some leakage. So you are saying i need to buy a drill press lol dang it i shouldn't of sold it in the divorce lol

 

[labradorian70]

Good news so far! Rebuild and ride my friend!

almost all good news lol valves are leaking so they must of got slightly bent. pistons looks fine. in my mind all is good, some new valves, rebuild and ride. cheers

 

[OldRider]

After you put the new valves in you will have to adjust the clearance on each valve. I would put the cams in and do the valve adjustment on the work bench while it is easy to get to. Then after everything is back to together and timed, check the clearance again before putting the cam cover back on.

 

[~TABASCO~]

If this was at my place or was my bike I would barrow or just rent a valve puller at this point and pull the valves and double check them (to make sure). And then clean them and check the seats. Your 99% there to do this.. Then clean the inside the head and probably the pistons... Its hard to see very close details in the photos on weather any of them had touched. I would do everything to 'check' before putting it back together......... It's easy to pull the valves and also just eye-ball the guides.

 

[~TABASCO~]

After you put the new valves in you will have to adjust the clearance on each valve. I would put the cams in and do the valve adjustment on the work bench while it is easy to get to. Then after everything is back to together and timed, check the clearance again before putting the cam cover back on.

If you're throwing in brand new valves that's easy to do...... As you know im sure..... I strongly suggest you correctly 'lap in' each valve.