Raising Links by 45mm

Mzee

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I know that this has been discussed here. The reason I bring this up again is the level of the raise 45mm and its implications. This is what my friend who has made this raise said: "I lift my Bike by approximately 45 mm. I try 3 times to make the links. And the third effort was successful. I cant feel any difference in the handling of the bike. I am very happy with the change. Just be aware you have to use the correct steel. if not correct it will stretch and brake eventually. I am 1.86 m tall, and my links are made for my length.

About the handling of the bike. My bike is much more stable on high speed( 200 km/h +) with the links. I did about 20 000 km with mine, so believe me the steel is strong enough".

What do you think about the 45mm raise?
 

avc8130

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I think none of it makes sense. You added 1 3/4" of rear height and you say the bike is MORE stable. The exact opposite should be true. You can't feel any difference in the handling but you are very happy. What DID you actually accomplish by raising the bike then?

ac
 

HoebSTer

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avc8130 said:
I think none of it makes sense. You added 1 3/4" of rear height and you say the bike is MORE stable. The exact opposite should be true. You can't feel any difference in the handling but you are very happy. What DID you actually accomplish by raising the bike then?

ac
AC, I don't know about stable as you put it, but the Alex with Konflict Motorsports whom did my suspension said about the same thing after I had my front forks and a rear stiff coil added to the stock rear shock. Since my front is so much stiffer for my weight, it doesn't allow my front to dive into corners for better cornering, and to be leary of it when I first ride it. If I was to raise the rear end with links, it would change the geometry back some to where it was as far as handling goes.
I have to be really high in my entry speed for any given corner, then hard on the brakes in order to get my front end compressed enough to handle at a higher (better) level.
My suspension was set up for me since I do some off roading on occasion here in the NW, and want a better ride off road, where I can simply adjust my patterns while on the road using a bit more caution if you will. It all works good so far after a recent test off roading for a couple hundred miles and no bottoming on the front forks driving over rocks and mounds at speed. Konflict was present at the Touratech Rally I am speaking of, and I went over and asked him why I have 1 1/2" of travel appearing on the bottom slide of the fork. He said it is supposed to be like that, and will be used up in a truely "Pucker" factor moment leaving some room for this. It made sense, and with each of our suspension adjustments, we all compromise one thing in order to get another. I am happy as I push the 300# weight range while riding.

Jeff
 

cosmic

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I run Jaxon's +25mm bones and to tell the difference i would have to try the 45mm ones. Then again, that much rise on the aft can't really help the high speed stability.
Dog bones (fork dropping) is a compromise btw agility/stability. It is a very well known issue, even for somebody that rides without caring too much about suspension settings like i do.


©
 

Mzee

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cosmic said:
I run Jaxon's +25mm bones and to tell the difference i would have to try the 45mm ones. Then again, that much rise on the aft can't really help the high speed stability.
Dog bones (fork dropping) is a compromise btw agility/stability. It is a very well known issue, even for somebody that rides without caring too much about suspension settings like i do.

©
I thought along similar lines. I get the impression that no one has attempted such much raise. And as you said the higher the bike the real it is problems of stability.
 

avc8130

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Mzee said:
I thought along similar lines. I get the impression that no one has attempted such much raise. And as you said there higher the bike the real it is problems of stability.
In the US, I bet the average inseam is ~32". Most find the stock bike "high" with the seat in the high position. I couldn't imagine trying to man handle the bike with an extra 1.75" of rear height...but then again my inseam is only ~29".

Raising the rear, with no corresponding change to the front, will quicken steering response and reduce stability. It will make the bike want to "fall" into turns, especially at low speed. The Tenere's stock geometry is VERY lax, so I am not surprised that you feel your change hasn't negatively affected stability too much.

I run my triples dropped a bit and I enjoy the more precise and quick turn in.

ac
 

Rasher

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10mm is a lot on most bikes, the s10 is a lazy steered so 25 may be ok, but 45 sounds too much.

It also will raise c of g and reduce rear grip, I have 10mm ones bought to help with turn / clearance two up, also have stiffer shock and this palate works for me, in alps testing it right now.
 

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Mzee said:
I thought along similar lines. I get the impression that no one has attempted such much raise. And as you said there higher the bike the real it is problems of stability.

Mzee,

I would suggest you pull back the rubber boot, or better yet, pull the swing arm and take a look at the U joint coming out the back of the motor.. Just put an eye on it and make sure it does not or had not bound up... You will see marks on the U joint if it has touched.. Probably be most concerned on rebound... You 'probably' OK,,, but I would take a look to be safe...
 

hrimfaxi

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I have gone 33.000 km on my S10 with the 30mm risers/linkage/dogbones. I wanna try the 45mm's. Where do i get them? ::021::
 

hrimfaxi

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I have gone 33.000 km on my S10 with the 30mm risers/linkage/dogbones. I wanna try the 45mm's. Where do i get them? ::021::
 

Mzee

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hrimfaxi said:
I have gone 33.000 km on my S10 with the 30mm risers/linkage/dogbones. I wanna try the 45mm's. Where do i get them? ::021::
I have a set I am not used. You can buy it from me.
 
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