Radiator leak and not sure why

[TheHelios]

Howdy Team Tenere!


After doing some off road riding this past weekend, I noticed my bike was starting to leak radiator coolant. After taking off the side panel and rad fan cover, I started looking around for a major puncture or blemish. There are some minor ones were some fins are bent but nothing substantial. The side of the radiator facing outside the bike had fluid all over the place so that wasn't helpful. I checked the side of the radiator facing inside the bike and you can see where the leak occurs. I've attached an image of where exactly it starts (this isn't my actual rad but a guiding image). The wet spot starts in the red box area and makes its way down. I'm guessing the fan pulled the leaked fluid from the inside section of the rad to the outside section of the rad which then splattered it all over the place. Now, I'm not sure if the leak is happening on a specific side but I do know what general area it starts at.


I first noticed the leak when we stopped riding in the morning and took a lunch break. I decided to not ride the bike as hard for our afternoon session and it seems it didn't leak then. It only seems to leak when I'm throttling pretty hard so this isn't a consistent leak. This is based on my scientific observation of seeing coolant splattered all over my boot and pant. If there's coolant on my clothes, then I know it leaked. If it stays dry, then I know it didn't leak.


Any ideas of how I can better diagnose the issue? Is running K-Seal through the rad safe? Do I just throw epoxy at it and hope it sticks in the right place?

 

[HeliMark]

It probably was leaking more in the morning as the bike was running hotter and the fan was on more. But a leak is a leak. Make sure the clamps on the hoses are tightened down and no leaks from there or a bad hose. After that, I would pull the radiator and take it to a good radiator shop and have them find the hole and fix it proper. I am not a fan of quick fixes unless it is what I need to get home.

Mark

 

[VPS1]

Seems that you damaged your fan a while back, this is probably connected to that crash..... I'd get a new radiator. Eventually it will really leak and get you stuck or cause damage to the motor. It's not worth the risk especially living in hotter than hot Florida!

 

[WJBertrand]

If you have a large enough tank, something like a storage tub would probably do, seal up the radiator and apply a little bit of pressure (careful here) and look for bubbles. Some auto parts places will loan you a pressure test kit.

 

[TheHelios]

Seeing as I plan on riding this thing hard into the forseeable future, I figured it would be a good idea to have a spare radiator on-hand.

I found a good deal on a used S10 radiator AND fan (finally can replace the undersized FJR fan I've been using) for $300 shipped. Once I get this installed, I can deal with the leaking radiator at a later point.

Thanks for the help, y'all.

 

[Ramseybella]

Well there you go, problem solved!! ::008::

 

[Squibb]

OK, it sounds like you have a solution, or at least an alternative. However, I do wonder why the leak is only showing when you press on hard, or the engine is running hot - is it just a damaged rad ? or is say a slight head gasket leak pressurising the system. Is the coolant pump leaking (often through it's bearing).

This scenario is easily clarified with a pressure test - no need for any other interventions, unless you are caught out on the road. Luckily a buddy of mine has a tester, but so do most good dealers & some hire shops. First, remove all the Tupperware so you can see the whole cooling system/engine. Top up the coolant, fix down the tester in place of the filler cap & slowly pressurise the system with the pump. Take it easy, as the hoses will expand out & stiffen to the touch - then watch & wait. Any leaks will soon reveal themselves, often in places you least expect - a little coolant goes a long way & usually follows the path of the airflow, at least in the early stages. Make sure the system is capable of holding a steady pressure reading.

If it is the rad, get it fixed at a good specialist or, preferably replace - personally I am not a great believer in used rads, unless you can be certain as to their history, & always avoid cheapo copies (not an S10 issue, probably). A rad from a written off bike can look useable, but may still leak or may have had Radweld/sealant run through it at some stage. By the way, don't overtighten hose clips/clamps - they need room to expand/contract & it is possible to crush pipes & rad connections.

I hope this helps - just my personal views on the subject.

Ride Safe ...................... KEN

 

[TheHelios]

Last night, coolant was spraying all over the place and I needed to do something quick while the other rad is still in the mail. I decided to run K-Seal through the radiator this morning, let the bike run for ~20 min. and no leaking coolant anywhere. I rode the bike to work really hard and after a 35 min. commute, still no leak. That's nice and all but the bike is running a lot warmer than it should. I did add more K-Seal than I should have and I suspect that's what's causing the higher than normal temps. I'll see if it gets any better over the weekend. If it doesn't, then I'll just do a rad flush and that should do the trick.

Squibb: Thanks for the info. The rad I ordered is leak free, per the seller, but I'll for sure test it when it gets here. I went to 2 auto parts stores but neither of them had loaner pressure test units that actually worked -_-

 

[Ramseybella]

Was it a desperate enough moment to put K-Seal in your bike? ???
I would have waited for the parts IMO sorry just me.
I hate any sealer that coats and seals unless I am in dire need of it.

 

[TheHelios]

Was it a desperate enough moment to put K-Seal in your bike? ???
I would have waited for the parts IMO sorry just me.
I hate any sealer that coats and seals unless I am in dire need of it.

Is it really that bad? I looked online for people saying not to use it but found considerably more people saying yes, it works, and very few saying no, it's bad.

The S10 is my only form of transportation and the new rad is supposed to come in next week on Friday. It's either get super hot coolant sprayed all over my boot and pant leg for another week or get it dealt with now. I was going to try some steelweld on it if I had a pressure test kit but I couldn't find one locally.

 

[Checkswrecks]

I wouldn't worry too much. At the same time, when you install the new radiator, I'd suggest flushing the cooling system a couple of times before putting in good coolant.

 

[TheHelios]

I wouldn't worry too much. At the same time, when you install the new radiator, I'd suggest flushing the cooling system a couple of times before putting in good coolant.

In addition to the new one, I was planning on doing that with the current one as I want to get that sealant stuff out as I'm sure it's contributing to my higher temps. Also, more practice won't hurt.

What should I do for the flush? I've read vinegar as a good thing but I have no idea if they're serious or it was a joke. I was also planning on using 50/50 Prestone for the coolant after the flush.

 

[TheHelios]

Well that didn't last long :/

Bike was getting to 240+ (shows HI as temp) while idling at a stoplight, temps soon to start dropping, and then I notice coolant spilling out of the side.

This new rad needs to come in ASAP.

 

[Checkswrecks]

In addition to the new one, I was planning on doing that with the current one as I want to get that sealant stuff out as I'm sure it's contributing to my higher temps. Also, more practice won't hurt.

What should I do for the flush? I've read vinegar as a good thing but I have no idea if they're serious or it was a joke. I was also planning on using 50/50 Prestone for the coolant after the flush.

Sorry about the new leak.

I used to use deionized water, try to get every drop out, re-flush with more DI water, then add coolant.
I gave up on that and have just used a flush or two of coolant for years. It's less than a jug per flush.


fyi: http://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=145322

 

[TheHelios]

Whelp, I've royally fucked something up. Seems I burst something dealing with the rad and now the rad is completely cold I.e. Not cooling the bike at all which is overheating like crazy. Bike gets overheated while the rad is cool to the touch. Coolant reservoir is still very much full even though my boot and pant are covered in coolant.

 

[WJBertrand]

Uh oh....Sounds like the sealant plugged up the radiator? There are a few sealant products out there where you're only supposed to use them with water, no coolant at first. Once the seal has succeeded you drain and flush the system, getting rid of the excess sealant, and they refill with coolant. What product did you use?

 

[TheHelios]

Alright y'all, I figured out exactly WTF is going on with my rad.

Last year, after having only owned the bike for 2 months, I dropped it on its left side a couple times to the point where the rad fan jammed into the rad and the rad motor burned out. I replaced the fan motor with a fan motor from an FJR rad motor assembly and everything's been fine and dandy up until last weekend.

Last weekend, it started leaking coolant when temps were high, due to pressure buildup, but was somewhat manageable. It eventually got bad enough to where I got desperate and used K-Seal. That seemed to work for my ride to work. When going for lunch, the temps got very high which is what I'm guessing caused whatever K-Seal did to break down.

I decided to head home to get my bike some place I wanted. The temps got very high (past 240 F) and the bike was just spewing out coolant like there was no tomorrow. Eventually, after several miles, it stopped spewing out coolant and the engine started to overheat. I then would travel around 1 mile or until the overheated engine symbol would show up. Once it showed up, I turned off the engine and let the bike cool down to around 220 F. Rinse and repeat until I got home an hour later. (This is where I last left off.)

I got home, took the wife's car, and called every auto shop to find a loaner radiator pressure tester. I eventually got one, tore down the rad side which included the fan. I ran the pressure tester and nothing. No pressure was building up. I started to check all the hoses and eventually found that the cover for the coolant reservoir was loose. I'm going to guess that the pressure buildup on my way home was enough to get the reservoir cap off and explains why coolant all of a sudden stopped coming out (no pressure to push the liquid).

I put the reservoir cap back on, used the pressure tester, and voila, I start hearing hissing sounds. I poured in a liter of water, added pressure, and saw water coming out. Hooray! I found the hole! I covered the hole with my finger, added pressure, and water came out somewhere else. Covered that hole, added pressure, and yes, still more holes.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxHuOrZ3xys


In the end, I discovered that every radiator channel with the bright silver line across it, in the attached image, either has a hole or will soon have one. My fan incident from over a year ago is finally showing the length of its damage.


My question for y'all is: Is this fixable-ish? I've seen radiator epoxy products but will they work based on the image and video I've attached?

 

[Checkswrecks]

In theory - yes fixable.
In reality and with something you want to trust - replace it.

 

[Ramseybella]

Yes it can but your ::002::
Sorry but It's time to cough up the cash for a new rad.. :'(

The fix will screw you 110% down the road!! ::007::

 

[Dogdaze]

Surely there must be rad builders in your neck of the woods? I know they will take the headers off and replace the core, I believe someone in the UK had the same issue and had a rad built locally, so it is doable, but I would not repair the core, have it replace and be done with , also probably cheaper than a new rad. As a side note, why is it taking so long to get this other rad you bought? could they not express it to you?
Good luck with getting this sorted, you're probably in one of the worse places to suffer a rad failure due to heat.