Preload Adjustment Knob

[eaglemike]

This is our first product for the Super Tenere. We are known for machining fine quality parts at a decent price in the USA.

This is the first article. Production parts are hard anodized black with a uniform finish.

Includes new detent balls, springs, and a new screw - just in case. Easy to install. I put four detent grooves in the part, just for fun. (factory part has two).

We ship priority mail.
Order here: http://www.eaglemike.com/Preload-adjustment-knob-pak-s10.htm

Thanks!!!

 

[Swagger]

Nice job Mike ... hadn't realised that the OEM thing might strip. Oh well if it does we now know how to deal with it. I might be after one of those ... I could stick a coloured screw in the top to make it jump. Like it. ::008::

 

[eaglemike]

Thanks!
There's a thread in the main forum about the factory part stripping.
The warranty replacement is replacing the entire shock assembly - and then you get the same plastic knob all over again.
Of course, all the dealers have a spare shock assembly on the shelf - lol!

Some info in this thread: http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=5146.0

 

[Swagger]

Well there you go Mike that's got this thread fully justified. Who'd a guessed hey. I do appreciate that entrepreneur spirit and it's made in the USA.

 

[Boondocker]

Should I order now or wait for a group buy? ::016::

 

[tomatocity]

Thanks Mike. Adding preload is even worse with the Eibach 850 spring. Might I suggest an Index Dot (mark).

 

[RED CAT]

Nice unit. May even look good in regular aluminum color. ::001::

 

[bloodline]

Just ordered one to go on my brand new warranty replacement shock. Thanks for making this. I left my plastic knob with a local machine shop for 2 weeks and they never did anything with it.

 

[creggur]

Nice!

 

[iridemotorbikes]

Production parts are hard anodized black with a uniform finish.

Mike would it be possible to get one with a Red anodized finish?

Thanks-

 

[tubebender]

Nice ::008::

 

[eaglemike]

Mike would it be possible to get one with a Red anodized finish?

Thanks-

It's possible.
Most of the bright colors you see (anodize) are soft ano. Normal buildup using hard anodize comes out dark red, pretty much burgundy. I'm guessing you'd like a bright color. I have some saved back for the next batch, and I'll ask if they will do a sample few as a test.

A little note: As you can see in the pictures, this knob isn't tapered as much as the stock part. This is for a reason. The flutes are also shaped differently. The first time I used the stock part it was a little difficult wearing gloves. I think the new profile is a fair bit better, especially using gloves.

 

[iridemotorbikes]

It's possible.
Most of the bright colors you see (anodize) are soft ano. Normal buildup using hard anodize comes out dark red, pretty much burgundy. I'm guessing you'd like a bright color. I have some saved back for the next batch, and I'll ask if they will do a sample few as a test.

A little note: As you can see in the pictures, this knob isn't tapered as much as the stock part. This is for a reason. The flutes are also shaped differently. The first time I used the stock part it was a little difficult wearing gloves. I think the new profile is a fair bit better, especially using gloves.

Cool thanks, I'm in SD all the time let me know when you get one/some and I can meet up with you..

 

[bloodline]

Installed mine just now. Thanks eagle mike and thanks for supplying the extra detent stuff with it. That saved me!

 

[Rasher]

Can I get one of these in the UK :question:

Although I have fitted a Wilburs shock, I would like the better knob in case I ever come to sell the bike.

 

[eaglemike]

I ship internationally often. I use USPS international priority mail. The part fits easily in the small flat rate box. Unfortunately prices for shipping keep going up. At this time the small f/r box is $16.95 to the UK. $12.95 to Canada. $16.95 to Japan.

I also include the backup detent parts. For those that don't know (the hard way), they are tiny parts, and will escape if you let them.

Thanks for the kind words above!

 

[Boondocker]

Installed mine today as well. The instructions are spot on - READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. ::024::

Putting a big towel under the bike to prevent bouncing balls and using a dab of grease to help hold the tiny parts are brilliant suggestions. For tools, might I also recommend magnet on a stick, one of those extendable jobs is perfect for picking up tiny ball bearings on your skidplate.

Take a good look at the orientation of the ball bearing slots and the flat sides of the internal adjuster shaft. If you get the new knob on right the first time, you should be fine. If you're like me and it takes a couple of tries to get it right, you might have to get those points back in alignment.

Nice little part - all function, no bling.

 

[Rasher]

I willorder one up in the new year ::008::

I notice you do raising links for the KLR, would you be able to do a custom link for the Tenere to raise it about 10mm :question:

 

[eaglemike]

Sure, I've thought about raising links for the S10. I'll experiment to get the proper ratio. Something to think about - where do you want to measure the 10mm? We're pretty much pivoting on the front axle. I like to measure close to where one would sit. I ask because one time a guy measured on a vertical line at the rear axle. For those that aren't familiar with these, they also change the leverage on the rear suspension. They effectively raise the spring rate a bit due to the leverage change.

Thanks for the feedback on the knob!

 

[Rasher]

Something to think about - where do you want to measure the 10mm?

I am thinking ride height of 6-10mm to steepen steering, normally measured in a vertical line from rear axle for ride height. I guess some folk are more interested in seat height when talking lowering, but I am after a ride height increase. My understanding is this is only likely to be a couple of mm difference in the spacing of the linkage holes.

I want to avoid dramatically altering linkage ratio, especially as I already have a slightly stiffer shock spring, and the bike is already sitting about 5-6mm higher than stock with me onboard. I could see with the OE shock a more dramtic increase of 10-15mm may work a treat to overcome the slow steering, soggy spring and poor ground clearance.

If I still find the steering a little slow I can always drop the forks a bit without altering spring rate, but with the bike already being a bit limited on ground clearance I probably would want to lift it a shade at the rear to compensate, with the stiffer shock it is already a lot better, but I fear dropping the front 5mm at present would put me back to having limited clearance.