Post wash start-up

Tremor38

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Just thought I'd put the word out again for people who might not know yet... If you wash your S10, try to get in the habit of starting it up for a bit if you don't do that with your bikes already. There have been quite few reports of hard starting from owners who wash their S10 then let it sit overnight without starting it.

....or, if one of you wants to experiment and poke around a bit, maybe we can find out what the heck is causing this. It would be nice to know where the water is collecting and what exactly it affects. Any guinea pigs?? :) :D
 

pqsqac

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I dry mine with my leaf blower to get all access water from nooks & crannies. Also helps to get the water out of the hex head screws so rust doesn't set in.
 

spasm

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i wash mine everytime i ride it, dry it with a chamios leather then blow it all out wiv an air line 8) acf50 every other wash
 

colorider

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pqsqac said:
I dry mine with my leaf blower to get all access water from nooks & crannies. Also helps to get the water out of the hex head screws so rust doesn't set in.
Kinda hard to do while on the road.
spasm said:
i wash mine everytime i ride it, dry it with a chamios leather then blow it all out wiv an air line 8) acf50 every other wash
This too!
:)
 

nankoweap

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has anyone correlated the use of a high-pressure wash to the hard starts? perhaps water is being forced into a crevice that it wouldn't otherwise. or perhaps the high pressure wash is compromising the kickstand switch. seems some of our wet-weather riders would have experienced this by now.
 

Koinz

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Geez, I just washed mine today for the first time since I brought it home (4 weeks). It wasn't that dirty, but looks better now.

It's probably getting into the spark plug caps or coil packs.
 

Tremor38

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Yeah, that's possible. Reports are that WFO throttle is usually what gets it started again, which is kinda weird.
 

markjenn

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Tremor38 said:
Yeah, that's possible. Reports are that WFO throttle is usually what gets it started again, which is kinda weird.
This would be consistent with some water-aggravated sensor malfunction that is causing a too-rich mixture and subsequent flooding on the initial attempt at a closed-throttle start. It doesn't happen often with today's sophisticated FI systems, but the procedure for a flooded engine is the same as with carbs -WFO throttle to get enough airflow to disperse residual gas and get a mixture that is back down in the combustable range.

- Mark
 

~TABASCO~

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Shoot... I need to get with the program.. Ive got almost 1000 and have not washed it once... ::025::

My $.02 is to not use high pressure on bikes.. Ive seen it first hand a hundred times on many different parts on a bike being ruined by water being blasted in... It can be blasted into places water does not belong...
 

jajpko

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I don't wash mine unless it is filthy. I use a liquid detail-er and air compressor. Also use the leaf blower and compressed air to dry the bike if I have to wash it.

And I do keep it stored inside..
 

spklbuk

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Are those of you that dry w/ leaf blowers/compressed air concerned about pushing water into places it does not belong?

Wash and dry by hand and then a neighborhood shake dry ride before waxing here. I might just go give mine an overdue bath this evening...I'll bet she is lonesome.
 

sportrider

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1200 miles and not washed yet. I usually wash it a handful times a year. Hondabright the bugs off after each ride, wash as needed.
 

jajpko

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spklbuk said:
Are those of you that dry w/ leaf blowers/compressed air concerned about pushing water into places it does not belong?

Wash and dry by hand and then a neighborhood shake dry ride before waxing here. I might just go give mine an overdue bath this evening...I'll bet she is lonesome.
Not at all. When I do wash mine, it is with a low pressure garden hose, so I am not using high pressure to put the water where it does not belong.
The blower just drys or makes the water run off. Never had a problem..
 

RMac

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Used high pressure wash myself for the past year without any issue at all. I try to avoid the wheel bearings, but other than that give it a reasonable hosing down. I never have the nozzle closer than a meter from the bike and do avoid hammering areas with cables, connectors and the instrument display.
 

Dirt_Dad

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Mine spent the night outside in Vermont during Hurricane Irene. No hesitation starting the next day. Obviously not the same as a pressure washer, but it was hard enough wind/rain to cause electrical issues in the Can-Am Spyder parked right next to it.
 

Koinz

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Dirt_Dad said:
Mine spent the night outside in Vermont during Hurricane Irene. No hesitation starting the next day. Obviously not the same as a pressure washer, but it was hard enough wind/rain to cause electrical issues in the Can-Am Spyder parked right next to it.
Not to beat a dead horse, but how did the can am fair. Lights on? ;D
 

Dirt_Dad

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Koinz said:
Not to beat a dead horse, but how did the can am fair. Lights on? ;D
Once it dried out it faired just fine. Apparently having the computer interface connection underwater is not recommended. It would seem that riding in a hurricane is a bit different from riding in an ordinary downpour. Well, at least for a Can-Am, but not for a Super Tenere ::012::
 

Koinz

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Good to hear. I have had some success with di-electric silicone to keep those sensitive electronic connections dry and keep the connections from corroding from multiple washes.
 

DuMar

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The Yamaha rep at the motorcycle show in February told me the S10 uses their marine grade connectors with dielectric grease. I haven't gotten into the electrical system yet, but can anyone confirm this?

Mike
 

jajpko

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DuMar said:
The Yamaha rep at the motorcycle show in February told me the S10 uses their marine grade connectors with dielectric grease. I haven't gotten into the electrical system yet, but can anyone confirm this?

Mike
Some of the connections I have had apart are marine grade, but I have yet to see any dielectric grease. I put it on the ones I have had apart. Will end up doing all of them this winter.
 
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