Ongoing care of your new S10

[MoFarkle]

Ok, so I'm probably setting myself up for ridicule, but here goes. I've only ever had old bikes and changed them regularly so a bucket of soapy water, fuel and oil changes were as far as it went. With the odd tyre kick and chain check.

I've now had my new s10 for 7months and plan to keep it for many years so I'm keen to learn about all those little bits I probably should have been doing, like checking some bearings or seals, the odd bit of grease here and clean this hidden thing every X miles...?

I will take it back to my main dealer annually for it's service and I know they will check for worn items but I'd like to be able to keep on top of ensuring things last as long as possible. I will clean and use ACF50 or FS365 on a regular basis.

What should I add to my general check/lube/clean schedule?

Thanks

 

[macca]

From 3+ years on mine I've noticed the following areas
1) it doesn't take much to corrode the spokes and ACF50 isn't ideal in that location, if you can be bothered try a wheel wax or similar.
2) Front water pipe that runs behind the exhausts seems to loose paint easily ACF seems to delay but not prevent it.
3) Frame to engine/gearbox mounts (under the rubber bungs), the ends of the frame tubes seem to promote paint failure /corrosion
4) under the tank paint is a bit thin/sparse ACF it or similar.
5) Spark plug coils? One of mine is a bit stuck so maybe some light rubber grease on the seals when fitting, note these aren't scheduled to be removed for many miles (when plugs are due a swap) I spotted the stuck one on mine as I was in winter boredom mode and whilst I was swapping the airfilter out I'd thought I'd look at the plugs (its got 9k miles on it).
I'm thinking I may need to order a new coil incase I destroy the stuck one during the removal attempts, it seems stuck fast to any twisting pulling out efforts from the top

 

[snakebitten]

Those are all good points Macca.

And it just points out that I'm the worst person here to answer the question(s)

Every six months or so I HAVE washed it. But nothing that could be construed as "detail".
But can be considered beyond a riding-in-rain wash.

I also do put some effort into spotting anything that could lead to a breakdown or getting stranded. But with this bike, that's little more than verifying air in the tires, spokes aren't missing, and no bolt holes revealing something has fallen off.

 

[Rasher]

I apply ACF with a compressor regularly and at a shade under 12k it is looking very good - the one exception is the spokes, I have resigned myself to getting them swapped out with some better ones in another year or two - it is just too much hassle to apply some protection to them after every ride.

Thanks for hint on plugs, mine are due soon, unsure as to if the dealer gets one more go as the warranty has now expired, I may go for one more stamp in case of any major issues as the warranty is only just out, but from 18k onwards it will be my fair hands.

Plan on a really big service at 24k, will get local indie to do tappets (and plugs while he is in there) but will do the rest myself, probably pull the pumpkin / swingarm at the same time, and re-grease the head bearings.

Two things I do regularly is:

FD Oil at every tyre change, I figure this is plenty often enough and easy to remember, plus if a tyre has been worn out quickly then the oil has probably had an equally hard time.

Brake caliper cleanup - easier to do a little and often than trying to de-grunge, I also do these when swapping tyres, so when the rear tyre needs changing I will change FD oil and give all the brake calipers a quick clean.

 

[stutrump]

All good points...especially cleaning pistons on the brake callipers. Back one gets really gunged up. In the winter/wet...i wipe around my fork stancions with a wet wipe. My experience from trials riding is that fork seals tend to go quickly if dirt is regularly being dragged into them so I try to keep my fork stancions clean even when Ive no time to wash the bike. I gave up on my spokes a long time ago. Ill get some stainless ones when I can afford them. If you've got heated grips...maybe use compressed air to dry the connectors under the bars...they seem to get quite corroded. Enjoy!!

 

[GrahamD]

Use it as intended and clean the bike thoroughly ;D (I know some of you are shocked)

Now I'll just pinch Maccas post..

From 3+ years on mine I've noticed the following areas
1) it doesn't take much to corrode the spokes and ACF50 isn't ideal in that location, if you can be bothered try a wheel wax or similar. Or just forget about it. Accept they are steel for a reason and your bike has some "rat bike" DNA. Check tension regularly.
2) No problem with mine.
3) Frame to engine/gearbox mounts (under the rubber bungs), the ends of the frame tubes seem to promote paint failure /corrosion
4) under the tank paint is a bit thin/sparse ACF it or similar.
5) Spark plug coils? Get a light film of silicone grease when changed out.
6) The engine case bolt that is used to drain coolant has a little "spout" on it. Blast it with ACF / WD40 / Tectyl regularly. It has three dissimilar metals in there and holds water when on the side stand.
7) Blast some ACF / WD40 / well thinned Tectyl in the "drain holes" in the lower frame sections to coat the lower inside tubes.
8 ) Clean the bike at least with a hose when finished with your gnarly ride. Nothing worse than mud / sand / grime soaking up moisture and salts in contact with steel or any metal for that matter.
9) Replace FD oil at every second engine oil change. I saved $7K by not buying "another Brand" so I spend the "interest" on good oil and filters grease etc.
10) Grease axles / splines etc at tire change with water resistant grease and grease up all the bits. Look like a grease monkey. Your bike will love you.
11) Replace brake fluid with top quality stuff more often than recommended.
12) Check steering head nut tension.
13) Be kind to your knees. You'll need them when you are older.
14) Wear sunscreen, [edit] Umm sorry you are from the UK, Take Vitamin D supplements then.

 

[Mzee]

My Missus says the S10 is my first wife because I spend a great deal of time cleaning and wiping and greasing. If you do these regularly which I do, you will easily notice the things that begin to be affected by age. But all points made above make good sense.

 

[snakebitten]

I'd caution against stainless spokes. There is evidence that their added strength (less elastic) overpowers the rim material. Ole Git from the UK blames them anyways. And his pics of damaged rim support the theory.

Graham is right. Even for you fellas that admirably keep your Tenere spiffy, should just accept the spokes as ratbike aesthetically.

 

[sportsguy]

I washed my S10 once. It got dirty again...not washing it again, FFS... I mean, it should have just stayed clean, damn it!

 

[MoFarkle]

Thank you all for your comments,

I will compile a separate word document and keep it in the tool box for reference. I had the dealer wash and ACF50 it when it went for the 600mile service and haven't washed it yet, It now looks a mess no matter how many deep puddles I ride through to wash it off. They also added the FD oil change at 600miles and I will ask for that to be done every year.

I'm awaiting delivery of 10L of Muc Off, 5L FS365 and each of the lithium/silicone grease to get me started. I'm already in the habit of cleaning forks as I do a lot of mountain biking and love the smell of fork juice, so I should be able to use that on the S10 too. I don't have a compressor so will probably have the ACF50 done annually by www.allyearbiker.co.uk and attempt to top it up from a can and supplement it with FS365 which I can put on using a hand compressed sprayer that is normally used in the greenhouse.

I think I will probably neglect the spokes as it seams what I save in wax and other various methods of keeping them shiny I could prob use just to replace them after about 5yrs.

macca, sorry to hear about the stuck coil but thanks for the advice, I will make sure to check mine. Is rubber grease the same as silicone grease? I'm only just getting to grips with the various types and when to use them (on the bike). When I worked on classic cars I had a giant tub with a label on saying 'GREASE' and I used that for pretty much everything. I have ordered so far White Lithium Grease and a silicone lubricant, both in cans made by WD40.

Does anyone know if a haynes manual is going to be produced? I have obtained the pdf service manual which is good but no means of printing the 616 pages!

Thanks again, Chris

 

[Checkswrecks]

I washed my S10 once. It got dirty again...not washing it again, FFS... I mean, it should have just stayed clean, damn it!

::026::

Seriously, a couple items that I will add:

1. Follow the maintenance schedule. I may not replace the rubber hoses, but do really change the fluids.

2. Inside the right swing arm is a rubber plug. They get loose or go missing and the swingarm can hold water. You can clean out the swing arm, check that the drain hole is clear, and re-install the plug with a little RTV to hold it in place.

3. Remove the shifter, clean the grit, and re-lube. Be careful to watch the washers on disassembly, as it is easy to re-assemble wrong.

4. AFC-50 the brake caliper pins if you live where rust is a problem. I once wrote that I "lube" (when I meant ACF) the brake caliper pins and got jumped on for it not being in the mx manual and not necessary by somebody in Texas. With the constant crap we ride in around the east coast, it helps keep them pads from hanging up though.

 

[Koinz]

::026::
My bike has about 22K on it now and it was one of the original PDP bikes.

I change the oil every 4K and every other oil change I'll replace the filter per the manual.

I replaced the pumpkin fluid a couple of times early in the first year, but haven't changed it since. I'll probably change it for the next riding season. I also mix my gear lube with some Molybdenum Disulfide at a 10:1 ratio. ( did this on my BMW because of paranoia mostly, but only changed it every couple of years) Never had a problem with the final drive.

Checked the plugs (like new) so I moved them around and put them back in. ( I have new ones that will go in for next riding season).
Blew out the air filter once. Looks like new. just a little dust and a couple of dead moths.

I was thinking of flushing the Anti-freeze for next year. Never had to add any, but I think the manual says every 3 years.

Getting the forks done, so the fluid will be new there. Bled the clutch and brakes now a couple of times and check the throttle sync once.

Other than that, it's the occasional wash (once or twice a year) and linkage lube and of course tires and brakes.

It's kind of funny, I spend more time with the farkles than I do maintaining it.

 

[sportsguy]

What does acf or AFC actually mean?

 

[MoFarkle]

Anti Corrosion Formula

http://www.acf-50.co.uk/acf-50.htm

 

[kmac]

acf50 is the British alternative to WD40...not exactly, and I am sure someone will yell at me for the comparison but is the truth. It is a spray on lube that aids in stopping rust and corrosion and displaces water....hence the WD {water displacement}

 

[Checkswrecks]

acf50 is the British alternative to WD40...not exactly, and I am sure someone will yell at me for the comparison but is the truth. It is a spray on lube that aids in stopping rust and corrosion and displaces water....hence the WD {water displacement}

Absolutely not true. Even the basic concept for the two are very different. What follows is what I remember from US Navy research:


WD-40 was developed in 1953 and originally stood for Water Displacing attempt number 40, with the original intent of preventing corrosion. But it is just a solvent similar to naphtha with a light oil added. The idea was for the solvent to work its' way into seams and evaporate, leaving an oil film. But oil remnant is thicker & uneven as a coating. Just like with an oiled foam air filter, it can hold dust and dirt. Corrosion already started will slow, as with any oil. However, the rust will continue at a slower pace, because the oil itself is not a barrier to oxygen. (There's at least one ASTM test for oxidation of oil itself.) btw - Keep WD-40 away from sealed bearings, as the solvent can go past the seal and dissolve the grease.


The various molecular level (ultra thin film) anti-corrosion products that include ACF-50 have almost no lubricating properties. (I know of one non-aircraft product that adds a light oil to set themselves apart, but due to the oxidation aspect think they are getting the worst of both worlds, like a screen door on a submarine.) Because the thickness of the layer is only in molecules it is able to penetrate better between parts and even isolating anodic & cathodic points at the granular level on a surface. That's how these newer products do better at stopping or slowing existing rust. It's better in tight seams and can be applied as a fog, spray, or liquid. The downside missed by most consumers (including motorcycle owners) is that the thin film washes off with soap or even even a strong rinse. That's why the ACF needs to be re-applied constantly and even in hidden parts of airplanes should be re-applied every 6 months or so.


For more info, the Navy has done a lot of research into how the various corrosion treatments work on aluminum aircraft that are based near coastal areas. Dr. Google ought to be able to turn up some of their papers. Here's a motorcycle test that I picked off a quick web search because the results are similar to what I have seen the Navy show: http://f2mcltd.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/winter-salt-protection-acf50-fs365-or.html


And the Lear Chemical guys who turn up at all sorts of conferences with their handout samples proudly point out that they are Canadians, not Brits.

 

[kmac]

Told ya

 

[scott123007]

acf50 is the British alternative to WD40...not exactly, and I am sure someone will yell at me for the comparison but is the truth. It is a spray on lube that aids in stopping rust and corrosion and displaces water....hence the WD {water displacement}

Jesus kmac , you're 0 for 2 in the last 24 hrs. That statement was idiotic, so you deserved to be called out on it by Checkswrecks. You may as well of just said the Harley Road King is the American version of the Suzuki Hayabusa.

 

[kmac]

The HD road queen is the USA version of a turd....how is that.

British, Canadian....what's the difference? It is not common here in the states. The reason I thought it was British is I always see Brits using it and the FS365 that was mentioned in that OP is British I believe....my point, if you read my post, which I completely admit it is NOT the same thing when I say "not exactly but" is that they are bot used as a water displacement and rust inhibitor type of spray...that is all. I stand by that and admittedly knew somebody would take the other side and forcibly correct the unimportant part of my comment.

I have worked in the automotive industry here in Cali off and on for 33 years and have never seen either ACF50 or FS365 so unless some special order they are not readily available here. I was giving a local product that gets used in a similar way....get over yourselves ::002::

 

[snakebitten]

I love this forum.

I hadn't heard of ACF50 either until it was mentioned here a few years ago. But then after a bit of research, I found it was EVERYWHERE around me. Why? Because it appears the aviation industry is a big user. And I office at an airport. Go figure.

By the way, I got my first can too late. My spokes were already too far gone.
Haven't cleaned em since. U.N.C.L.E.