OEM heated grip question

[Mike Sisson]

Question regarding the heated grips...

Is it necessary to have the nub on the throttle housing?? Just seem to hold it in place (which is also accomplished simply by tightening the assembly like every other bike I've owned). I have previously (when changing handlebars) just ground off all the nubs on the various controls rather than hassle with the drilling. Makes it easier to position the controls afterwords. Any thoughts on this??

 

[markjenn]

I now nothing about how the OEM heated grips install on the S10 (I will shortly when I get mine), but I personally don't like to grind off the indexing nubs. I've had too many bikes where you have to overtighten the switch housings to get sufficient clamping pressure to prevent rotation.... which eventually strips the screws since they're usually just anchored in plastic. Out come bigger screws and beer can shims to get more tightening pressure which may work for awhile, .... I just don't think the switch housings are designed to work his way.

But others say they've had no issues. YMMV.

- Mark

 

[Firefight911]

You'll take the time to grind off the nubs but not drill a hole that already has the punch mark for alignment?

 

[Mike Sisson]

You'll take the time to grind off the nubs but not drill a hole that already has the punch mark for alignment?

Good point.... ::025::

Just kind of worried if the spacing is locked in my Kaoko throttle lock might not work. Of course, now that I write this I realize I can always pull it apart and grind it off later....

 

[HoebSTer]

MarkJenn, you can take a personal look at mine if you want. I can head your direction, or you can head my direction in Issaquah to look. We can unscrew the throttle to give you a visual if needed.

Jeff

 

[Mike Sisson]

I now nothing about how the OEM heated grips install on the S10 (I will shortly when I get mine), but I personally don't like to grind off the indexing nubs. I've had too many bikes where you have to overtighten the switch housings to get sufficient clamping pressure to prevent rotation.... which eventually strips the screws since they're usually just anchored in plastic. Out come bigger screws and beer can shims to get more tightening pressure which may work for awhile, .... I just don't think the switch housings are designed to work his way.

But others say they've had no issues. YMMV.

- Mark

Mark, I've found that the "nubs" are a fairly recent phenomenon and have thus far never had an issue with removing them. I have always figured they were a means to speed initial assembly and get good alignment when doing so. I have rotated a lot of MC bars to get a better fit for myself. Prior to these nubs it was never an issue to loosen, rotate, and then (judiciously) re-tighten the part. This can be an even bigger issue if changing bars from OEM. Switch housings really don't have much load on them and thus they really don't have to be tightened much. My experience has been similar with throttle housings.

 

[stevepsd]

Any of you guys ever do any off-road racing out here in the desert...and fall down...or crash?

The last thing you want to do is have your throttle housing, levers (or more expensively - the clutch or brake master cylinders) snap/crack due to a drop (or crash in my case >). We would always wrap a couple of turns of Teflon tape (you know the white stuff used for plumbing) around the bars then clamp the housing on over it. The Teflon will allow the housing to rotate in a crash and reduce the chance of breakage, but keep the housings secure on the bars.

The nubs prevent this from happening.

Just grind the stupid nubs off, and put a couple of wraps of Teflon tape around there. This will also allow you to put the controls in the position YOU like, not where Yamaha thinks they should go (I found that the stock position of the starter button to be rotated way to far down). If you want to get fancy, instead of Teflon tape use 'Lever Mate instead! http://www.sealmate.net/levermatebuynow.html

-steve

 

[Mike Sisson]

Okay. I'm an idiot.... ::010::

Have been installing said grips and all was going well....until the throttle housing. I'm just not getting this thing.

Put the two grommets on the heater wire in their respective slots but then, after re-assembling it all, I'm getting too much drag. Have now taken it all apart twice and am not seeing what I'm doing wrong.

I'm also kind of perplexed about the actual heater wire off the throttle. Is it supposed to be wadded into the housing as suggested??

Help!

 

[20valves]

Okay. I'm an idiot.... ::010::

Me too, my first step was to call dealer and have him install. Throttle feels the same when it's done right but I am blissfully ignorant of the method.

 

[roy]

Okay. I'm an idiot.... ::010::

Have been installing said grips and all was going well....until the throttle housing. I'm just not getting this thing.

Put the two grommets on the heater wire in their respective slots but then, after re-assembling it all, I'm getting too much drag. Have now taken it all apart twice and am not seeing what I'm doing wrong.

I'm also kind of perplexed about the actual heater wire off the throttle. Is it supposed to be wadded into the housing as suggested??

Help!

Sit down at a table and assemble it. Add plenty of grease in the housing and on the wire. Took me a few minutes to get mine right and once right it does not drag. It felt weird at first but after a day in the sun it has worked perfect ever since.

 

[markjenn]

Any of you guys ever do any off-road racing out here in the desert...and fall down...or crash?

The last thing you want to do is have your throttle housing, levers (or more expensively - the clutch or brake master cylinders) snap/crack due to a drop (or crash in my case >). We would always wrap a couple of turns of Teflon tape (you know the white stuff used for plumbing) around the bars then clamp the housing on over it. The Teflon will allow the housing to rotate in a crash and reduce the chance of breakage, but keep the housings secure on the bars.

The nubs prevent this from happening.

Just grind the stupid nubs off, and put a couple of wraps of Teflon tape around there. This will also allow you to put the controls in the position YOU like, not where Yamaha thinks they should go (I found that the stock position of the starter button to be rotated way to far down). If you want to get fancy, instead of Teflon tape use 'Lever Mate instead! http://www.sealmate.net/levermatebuynow.html

-steve

Like I originally said, YMMV.

- Mark

 

[TierHawg]

Okay. I'm an idiot.... ::010::

Have now taken it all apart twice and am not seeing what I'm doing wrong.

Help!

Only twice?

Had the same issue myself, and it took a few trys. After I took a break and came back, I did it in two steps. Step one was to make sure I got the throttle cables back in place correctly. I left the heater line alone at this point. Once I was sure the throttle cables were not the issue, I began to attempt to figure out the heater line. After more than a few attempts, i gave up "thinking" about how to place the line, and just waded it in. It worked. ??? Took it apart, and made sure I didn't pinch anything, waded it up again, and it still works.

I'm trying to remember the steps I took. The pics show the heater line folded over itself between the two grommets. Do this. Once the grommets were in place, I placed the excess closest the throttle tube into the open space in the housing. It was also folded up on itself. I was having the drag issues when I tried to run the heater line further down into that area. Just place it on top of itself, and give that a try. Like most things, once you get it, it will seem simple.

HTH

 

[Firefight911]

Good point.... ::025::

Just kind of worried if the spacing is locked in my Kaoko throttle lock might not work. Of course, now that I write this I realize I can always pull it apart and grind it off later....

Ahh, the Kaoko! I installed mine after the grips as well. You will need the washers and the longer bolt it comes with! As a matter of fact, I needed to add an additional washer over what it came with to get the lock to function properly. It should make sense once you install it as to what I am talking about. Hit me if I can help here.

 

[Mike Sisson]

Sit down at a table and assemble it. Add plenty of grease in the housing and on the wire. Took me a few minutes to get mine right and once right it does not drag. It felt weird at first but after a day in the sun it has worked perfect ever since.

I actually did that (though did not grease it). Seemed like I had the wire positioned pretty well....until I had to move everything to attach the cables...and it all sort of sproinged out. *sigh*

I have walked away from it for now and will start fresh in the am. This usually works out as I realize I was doing something stupid...

 

[Mike Sisson]

Ahh, the Kaoko! I installed mine after the grips as well. You will need the washers and the longer bolt it comes with! As a matter of fact, I needed to add an additional washer over what it came with to get the lock to function properly. It should make sense once you install it as to what I am talking about. Hit me if I can help here.

Phil, I already had the Kaoko on...was just concerned about the new housing and such. At the rate this is going it's kind of down there on my priorities right now... ::025::

 

[Mike Sisson]

Only twice?

Had the same issue myself, and it took a few trys. After I took a break and came back, I did it in two steps. Step one was to make sure I got the throttle cables back in place correctly. I left the heater line alone at this point. Once I was sure the throttle cables were not the issue, I began to attempt to figure out the heater line. After more than a few attempts, i gave up "thinking" about how to place the line, and just waded it in. It worked. ??? Took it apart, and made sure I didn't pinch anything, waded it up again, and it still works.

I'm trying to remember the steps I took. The pics show the heater line folded over itself between the two grommets. Do this. Once the grommets were in place, I placed the excess closest the throttle tube into the open space in the housing. It was also folded up on itself. I was having the drag issues when I tried to run the heater line further down into that area. Just place it on top of itself, and give that a try. Like most things, once you get it, it will seem simple.

HTH

I think getting the throttle cables back in place 1st might just be the way to do this. I'll give it a go in the am. Thanks! Actually it's good to know others had the same issue. Makes me feel a bit more relaxed about it.

Now, I am going to go have a beer.... ::012::

 

[Firefight911]

I think getting the throttle cables back in place 1st might just be the way to do this. I'll give it a go in the am. Thanks! Actually it's good to know others had the same issue. Makes me feel a bit more relaxed about it.

Now, I am going to go have a beer.... ::012::

Definitely throttle cables first got me there.

 

[markjenn]

You guys are given me the willies about my upcoming install.

- Mark

 

[Mike Sisson]

You guys are given me the willies about my upcoming install.

- Mark

As well we should..... ::025::

Seriously, I think it's just a bid fiddly with the new throttle housing and the wires. I was pretty tired when I started (never a good idea) and after a few pointers, a nights sleep, and a resultant increase in patience I'm sure it'll be no problem... Bwa-Ha-Ha-Ha...

Actually, the process had been going fine until the throttle thing. The drawings are pretty lame and the instructions sketchy. I think it IS important (as others noted) to concentrate on setting up the throttle cables and THEN go after the heater wire. Makes a lot of sense in retrospect. 'Course, I'll have more info tomorrow and will keep all posted.

And, as you note....YMMV ::025::

 

[troll]

don't be afraid - remember the force... ::025:: the drawings look flakey but if you follow the heater wire layout as the picture shows it does work. get the blocks in the right place first. dry fit it without the throttle wires so you know how it fits together and don't grease it until the final assembly.