Notching head bearings at 30k klms

ThaiXT

Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2022
Messages
56
Location
Thailand
Hi all had anyone had issues with the head bearings? Mine have a center notch at only 30.000klms? Thanks
 

bimota

Moderator
Staff member
Global Moderator
Joined
Dec 10, 2017
Messages
6,694
Location
bridgend, Wales, UK
took my 2013 for its UK mot test, has 32000 miles on it, the tester said there was a very tinny hint of a center notch , he pointed it out nothing to worry about,
but last yrs test nothing and past, the yr before the test said there was a small notch there, so lol who knows

rob
 

Squibb

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2014
Messages
1,067
Location
Bedford, UK
There are so many variables, it's impossible to say. Yamaha are sparing with the grease from the outset.

I would expect around 30-50k miles, on road use, subject to re-packing with grease every 2/3 years if required, but weather & riding conditions will always have a huge impact on longevity.

It's annoying & time consuming, but a relatively inexpensive job to fit new bearings - just browse through 'search' on here.

For the future, can I also suggest you check the driveshaft splines & swing arm bearings when you next have a rear tyre change,
 

RCinNC

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2014
Messages
2,875
Location
North Carolina
If you mean "issue" as in "systemic problem with that particular component", then no, I don't think there's an issue with the Super Tenere steering head bearings. The upper bearing is from Koyo and the lower is from NTN, both of which are quality bearings. I've been on this forum for a long time, and I've never read enough complaints about steering head bearings to believe it's a product quality issue.

I have read some forum postings about the lack of lubrication in the steering head to believe that could be an issue with the steering head bearings for some owners. I didn't notice it the first time I took the steering head apart. I believe I've also read other posts from members who've said that their steering heads were loose (i.e. the bearings weren't properly torqued) the first time they had them serviced. If you experienced early bearing failure, I suspect it might be either issue, or a combination of the two. Improper torquing in the steering head leads to uneven loads, which could create a high wear spot. Lack of lubrication in the steering head could have two outcomes: premature wear, and corrosion. A well packed bearing helps keep the water out. When I do the steering head maintenance, I pack the bearings with Belray waterproof grease, and I follow the tightening procedure from the service manual to the letter. I eventually had to replace my lower steering head bearing and race this year at 90,000 miles. The job itself is fairly straightforward, and only required a steel rod to knock the lower race out. I used the old race as a driver for the new one.
 

bimota

Moderator
Staff member
Global Moderator
Joined
Dec 10, 2017
Messages
6,694
Location
bridgend, Wales, UK
how do you service them then, my bikes a 2013 32000 miles they have not been looked at to be honest, my swing arm etc has been,

do the forks need removing i guess yes, would like to know whats involved with servicing the head bearings please

rob
 

RCinNC

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2014
Messages
2,875
Location
North Carolina
I made up a guide on how to remove and service the steering head. It has illustrations to help in the process. I'm on my way out the door right now, but when I get back I can scan it and email it to you. It gives a step by step on how to remove the steering head (yes, the forks have to be removed too) and how to put it all back together again.
 

bimota

Moderator
Staff member
Global Moderator
Joined
Dec 10, 2017
Messages
6,694
Location
bridgend, Wales, UK
I made up a guide on how to remove and service the steering head. It has illustrations to help in the process. I'm on my way out the door right now, but when I get back I can scan it and email it to you. It gives a step by step on how to remove the steering head (yes, the forks have to be removed too) and how to put it all back together again.
thank you that would be great, i,ll pm you my email

rob
 

ThaiXT

Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2022
Messages
56
Location
Thailand
On the internet a few people have had issues with the bearing race cracking? Will strip and replace mine :)
 

~TABASCO~

RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Vendor
Joined
Apr 4, 2011
Messages
7,352
Location
TEXAS
Ive worked on many of these, here are a few ideas.....

All Super Tenere motorcycles should have this item taken apart and lubed. The vast majority of the bikes have very little grease, and about 10% of the ones I work on have 'no grease'. This must have been the Monday morning shift. The 12-13' have always had an issue with the top nut coming loose and should add blue lock tight and re torque. (they all should have this done)

The notch feeling can be helped by removing the race and clocking it and re installing its 'square' in the bore. You can do this to the top and bottom. Clean and properly lube both bearings and re install. (Or better yet, replace the bearings if anyone has any doubt)

Ive come across a few cracked races, these have all been on the lower race. Typically I cant see the crack with my eyes, I have rub my finger nail around and you can pick up the crack quickly. Obviously, if it's cracked you must replace.

Ive mentioned this many times, it seems as if the 2014+ are not having the UPPER race pressed in square. (pressed in all the way). This is causing un even pressure on the lower triple tree steer shaft. 'Typically', you will then only see wear marks on 180* of the race and no marks on the other half. The race needs to be seated. I have seen this normally only on the top race. Tap the race down into the bore until it bottoms out. (For the non-mechanics: this is less than 1mm probably .5mm. This is more of a sound and feel, it's nothing you can see happen.)



Check the races, clean the bearings and races, lube the bearings PROPERLY, and install it back.... Don't forget to clean the top threads, add lock tight, and re torque everything....

Double check your work..............
 

Bill_C

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 22, 2021
Messages
492
Location
Central Valley California
This is going to be controversial, so I will preface this by saying that you should always follow the manufacturer's maintenance recommendations.

When I had my bike in for the wiring harness recall last month I asked the dealership to do a valve adjustment, MCCT install and to service my steering head (inspect, lube, re-torque). They were adamant about not doing the steering head service. They stated that, despite what the service manual says, they didn't recommend it because of the increased chance of introducing dirt into the bearings. In their words, "They feel fine and repacking isn't going to do anything other than increase the chances of introducing dirt and possibly early bearing failure. Wait until they feel notchy and then just replace them. The labor cost is about the same."

Now, I've done my own steering head services on all manner of bikes over the past 30 years and, to be honest, I have never been surprised by what I've found. I repack them anyway, but I have never found them to really need it. Makes me wonder... was the dealership just being lazy (and passing on an opportunity to make money during the slow season?) or are they just vocalizing what I have secretly wondered? I have other things on the bike to take care of over the winter, so I may tackle the steering head bearings myself, but I suspect that they will be like every other bike I've ever done.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
 

wera688

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2016
Messages
116
Location
Newnan GA
my 2014 head bearings were notched and replaced at 101,767 miles, my 2016 bearings were notched and replaced at 72,964 miles.
The 2014 was replaced with OEM, the 2016 was replaced with Tusk kit# 191291001.
YMMV
 

scott123007

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2012
Messages
1,484
Location
Jupiter, Florida
This is going to be controversial, so I will preface this by saying that you should always follow the manufacturer's maintenance recommendations.

When I had my bike in for the wiring harness recall last month I asked the dealership to do a valve adjustment, MCCT install and to service my steering head (inspect, lube, re-torque). They were adamant about not doing the steering head service. They stated that, despite what the service manual says, they didn't recommend it because of the increased chance of introducing dirt into the bearings. In their words, "They feel fine and repacking isn't going to do anything other than increase the chances of introducing dirt and possibly early bearing failure. Wait until they feel notchy and then just replace them. The labor cost is about the same."

Now, I've done my own steering head services on all manner of bikes over the past 30 years and, to be honest, I have never been surprised by what I've found. I repack them anyway, but I have never found them to really need it. Makes me wonder... was the dealership just being lazy (and passing on an opportunity to make money during the slow season?) or are they just vocalizing what I have secretly wondered? I have other things on the bike to take care of over the winter, so I may tackle the steering head bearings myself, but I suspect that they will be like every other bike I've ever done.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
LOL, I wonder what that dealership feels about valve adjustments? Ten times the likelyhood of introducing dirt.


Pertaining to this conversation though, NOTHING wears out steering head bearings faster than them being too loose. If you feel ANY extra looseness in the front end going over little bumps, or a clicking when you apply your front brake, chances are your steering head bearings are too loose.
 

~TABASCO~

RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Vendor
Joined
Apr 4, 2011
Messages
7,352
Location
TEXAS
This is going to be controversial, so I will preface this by saying that you should always follow the manufacturer's maintenance recommendations.

When I had my bike in for the wiring harness recall last month I asked the dealership to do a valve adjustment, MCCT install and to service my steering head (inspect, lube, re-torque). They were adamant about not doing the steering head service. They stated that, despite what the service manual says, they didn't recommend it because of the increased chance of introducing dirt into the bearings. In their words, "They feel fine and repacking isn't going to do anything other than increase the chances of introducing dirt and possibly early bearing failure. Wait until they feel notchy and then just replace them. The labor cost is about the same."

Now, I've done my own steering head services on all manner of bikes over the past 30 years and, to be honest, I have never been surprised by what I've found. I repack them anyway, but I have never found them to really need it. Makes me wonder... was the dealership just being lazy (and passing on an opportunity to make money during the slow season?) or are they just vocalizing what I have secretly wondered? I have other things on the bike to take care of over the winter, so I may tackle the steering head bearings myself, but I suspect that they will be like every other bike I've ever done.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk



Sounds like the dealer is looking for low hanging fruit and looking for the fast easy work..... or just lazy.... LOL................. "dirt"...... LOL


Bill_C. Probably just like all your past bikes. Pretty easy, normal service work.
 

Bill_C

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 22, 2021
Messages
492
Location
Central Valley California
Sounds like the dealer is looking for low hanging fruit and looking for the fast easy work..... or just lazy.... LOL................. "dirt"...... LOL


Bill_C. Probably just like all your past bikes. Pretty easy, normal service work.
Yeah, I hear ya and I'm sure you know that my above post wasn't a rebuttal to yours (I didn't even see it as we were probably typing our posts at the same). I was just thinking out loud and conveying what they had said.

I haven't touched this bike so I'll take your word for the lack of grease and the off kilter races. I'll check them when I pull it apart over the winter.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
 

~TABASCO~

RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Vendor
Joined
Apr 4, 2011
Messages
7,352
Location
TEXAS
Yeah, I hear ya and I'm sure you know that my above post wasn't a rebuttal to yours (I didn't even see it as we were probably typing our posts at the same). I was just thinking out loud and conveying what they had said.

I haven't touched this bike so I'll take your word for the lack of grease and the off kilter races. I'll check them when I pull it apart over the winter.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
No biggie :) I have pictures of maybe what to expect if you want to see any.
Have a great Christmas
 

RCinNC

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2014
Messages
2,875
Location
North Carolina
I had a dealer tell me not to bother with having the valves checked. Their reasoning was "don't worry, the valves will make noise when they need to be adjusted". Evidently they were laboring under the impression that my old V-Strom was being powered by a 350 V8 from my old 1970 LeMans.
 

holligl

Find the road less traveled...
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Messages
2,255
Location
IL/AZ
Just recently cleaned, lubed, and torqued mine for the 4th time. 82kmi - still original and operating smooth.

@~TABASCO~ , I don't see Loctite called out in the manual. You use it on the top cap nut? It is a little tough to get the 130 nm torque with handlebars removed. I had to get out the air impact driver to remove the cap this last go around, without Loctite.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

holligl

Find the road less traveled...
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Messages
2,255
Location
IL/AZ
Actually, I realized after the job, with bar risers installed I don't need to remove the handlebars to get my socket on that nut. One less step in the future.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
Top