Day 1: Melilla, Missour, crossing the Plateau de Rekam
As always, it was hard to sleep on the boat but at last we arrive to Melilla port with a big delay. Is important to be ready to quit the boat to be the first to arrive to the horrible Melilla border with Morocco.
Here nothing has changed in the last years: queues, pushing, total chaos ... go from one gate to another ... but eventually got through.
Finally we ride to Nador where as always we stop at the same bar for breakfast and change euros for dirhams: the adventure begins!
The bikes are already dirty, it rains (this is the desert?) and the cars send a curtain of water and mud, we can’t see anything since the helmet and glasses are filled with dirt. Driving on wet and dirty asphalt with such hard knob tires is entertaining, the scares are constant .... We started well!
We are late, we spend lot of time with the ferry delay and the border and there are many miles ahead ... and at the end of the track, before Missour is a hell of stones.
We finally go to the dirt tracks and we drive quick. Go to 100 km/h or even 120 is easy with these bikes on these tracks so open but at these speeds the unexpected can be fatal, as you know stop these cows from almost 300 kgs loaded is not easy ...
The Rekam Plateau is a vast flat area, beautiful but treacherous. Is very high and cold. Suddenly the ground changes colour is much darker and the bike starts making strange movements: mud!
The Rekam is very flat and the clay soil does not drain so the mud is like a sticky butter which makes it very difficult to move forward. I would not want a storm caught me there…. in these conditions, crossing it in bike must be hell ...
Soon we start to fell, luckily at low speed but the bike lift is really difficult because the boots slip all over the place, some situations are laughable (see video)
Rekam
... but we move very slow. Luckily the mud is over and we can return to run fast.
The is the first mechanical failure. My front fender had a crack from a previous fall near home (just the first ride with the bike, good start…) and the mud accumulate in the wheel cause it breaks. Is dangerous to ride like this, so we stopped at the first village we found in the middle of nowhere: Matarka. We see a small workshop where some people are repairing an old truck. Just see us and they stop everything to see what they can do, in this country the people are really nice, always willing to help. With a piece of metal they quickly made a bracket that will support the fender all the way. He ask 3 euros for the work, I give him 5 and he was so happy that he invite me to have a tea.
It has come too late, and is becoming to be dark. Two years ago I did this track with my old GSA, had a puncture and need to do it in the dark… it was horrible, there are a million of rocks.., nobody in the group wants to repeat it and we decided to finish the stage by road. The problem is we need to do a very large return without refuelling.
We started to run, it gets dark, wet and cold... pass the miles, I have not been able to test before the autonomy of my bike.... No problem for the GSA and KTM with more than 33 litres but with my 23….When I've done 60km in reserve I start worrying... 80km .. the bike starts coughing ... 85km ... it stops!. Just 2 km from a gas station ... damm, it was so close!!
I can imagine the jokes of my fellows BMW’rs ... but deep down they are good people and bring me some gas to get to the gas station.
Take this opportunity to clean the bikes, the mud has left them unrecognizable. And finally another joke at my expense: the washing tunnel had very deep drainage channel in the centre, it was dark and I didn’t see it. When I want to get the bike pushing I stuck my foot in, stumble, lose balance and fell on the floor, the bike on top of me .... I can hear the laughs ... bastards…
We are 60 km to the hotel in Missour, we call it the arachnid.. you can imagine why. It is the worst hotel of the trip but the food is ok and after an hour of leaving the tap water wide open it comes warm water…
We go to bed tired but happy. Tomorrow we reach Merzouga sand ... begins!