Scott Williams
Member
2014 S10 here. I use Yamalube 100% synthetic. Select proper weight for your climate.
Mobil 1 oil...
- Thread starter mrpete64
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shredmeister
Active Member
I read somewhere that the forum member who put 132,000+ miles on his 2012 used Shell Rotella 15w-40. Works for me and it's JASO-MA.
I have used Mobil1 10-40 specific for motorcycles for my last four bikes, changing the filter and oil ever 3k miles, using a K&N filter. My question is, is Mobil1 gear lube ok to use in the differential on the Super Ten and if so, how often should it be changed out?
Short answer is yes. It meets the required GL-5 spec, the 75W-90 is reasonably close to Yamaha's viscosity recommendation, and it is well regarded and widely used. I'd change it as per Yamaha's recommendation (which I think is 12K, but not totally sure). I wouldn't use the 75W-140 version though.
Since you mention K&N, I've got to relate what happend yesterday. I was changing oil on one of my older Hondas and typically I use the Honda OEM filter, but happened to have a K&N around (I had bought it as a "filler" to get up to a required $$$ amount for free shipping on a recent mail order), and put it on. I've never had a filter leak on this bike, but this K&N leaked.... the provided o-ring was slightly mis-sized. I know some of you swear by them, but I've had extremely bad experiences with K&N on a number of items and I frankly view their air filters as total crap. Just my opinion.
- Mark
I use the KN-204 on the Tenere just for the convenience of the 17mm nut on the end. So far no problems at all.markjenn said:
Lot's of K&N bashing out there these days. Especially their air filters. I've seen some air filter comparisons/tests where K&N fared quite badly, but I have not noticed any bashing on their oil filters. I guess I missed the memo on how much their oil filters suck as well.
Seriously, markjenn, this sounds like a one-off problem. Are you sure you got the right filter? I like and will continue to use the KN-204s.
Yes, my experience is strictly anecdotal and probably a one-off, but I've probably changed a couple hundred oil filters in my life and I've never had one leak until this one and it happens to be a K&N. It is an extremely common filter used on hundreds of Hondas and you can tell it is correct except for an o-ring that isn't the right diameter - the metal of the filter canister bottoms out against the engine before the o-ring seals. Take it for what you feel it is worth.arjayes said:
- Mark
Wow, my last three bikes I put 30k miles on each of them, changing the oil and filter every 3k miles that is 30 K&N filters. I have never had a problem with them. I wonder if that is a fluke or has something changed at K&N. Did they offshore or did QC change?
So, what is Yamaha's recommended viscosity for the differential lube.
So, what is Yamaha's recommended viscosity for the differential lube.
80W-90 if I recall correctly.... it's in the OM.SuperTenSteve said:
- Mark
I think using fully synthetic oil is an expensive overkill for the S10. Yamaha's own service kit for the S10 includes a semi-synthetic oil. I use Castrol semi-synthetic for motorcycles and change it every 5-6000 km (say average 3.5k miles).
Mercury Marine is one of the world's biggest maker of boat motors and 3 years ago started packaging synthetic oil for motorcycles. Walmart sells it for less than Mobil1, the Quiksilver oil IS approved under JASO MA, AND it costs less than Mobil1.
What weight?Checkswrecks said:
Good thing to point out.
The jug I picked up is 20-50, so appropriate for 50F and warmer. I still had some 10-40 of another brand and 10W is good to -10F, while our nightly lows are still in the 30s. Needing just one quart for this change, I picked up a gallon of the 20-50 and mixed. I've got more than enough for the next change which will be when our temps are consistently warmer.
The jug I picked up is 20-50, so appropriate for 50F and warmer. I still had some 10-40 of another brand and 10W is good to -10F, while our nightly lows are still in the 30s. Needing just one quart for this change, I picked up a gallon of the 20-50 and mixed. I've got more than enough for the next change which will be when our temps are consistently warmer.
SilverBullet
Well-Known Member
Thanks this is good info to know. Since it is packaged as a m/c oil I would have thought it would be stocked in the m/c section but not, its with the marine oils. My store only carries the 20W-50 weight.Checkswrecks said:
Actually it is more expensive than Mobil 1 though. $25 for 1 gallon jug versus $26 for 5 quart Mobil 1 jug.
_
I'm a little surprised at the price there, as it was $21 here and the Mobil was $26. Nice to have another alternative regardless.
I seem to remember that Motorcycle Consumer News did a test years ago and Mobil 1 was the only oil to move to heat where the others moved away. MCN was impressed with it.
Velvet
El lobo solitario
I'll have to dig out that article.SuperTenSteve said:
This may not be the article I was thinking of or I may be remembering it wrong, but this one is interesting
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm
eemsreno
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That was good reading, thanksSuperTenSteve said:
Donk
Well-Known Member
I'm too lazy to think about it although I just read the entire thread!. I use Yamalube and don't give it a second thought.
Yeah, but that article was written in 1994. Surely things have changed since then? I posted a link on ADV a couple of weeks ago to an oil treatise that I stumbled upon:eemsreno said:
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/
It comes to the same conclusion that Mobil 1 is good stuff, but it also addresses the issue of oil additives in non-motorcycles oils affecting clutch operation on wet-clutch bikes.
Click on that link at your own risk. It may end up costing you several hours and a fair amount of frustration!!