Key Problems

EricV

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A couple of things come to mind here. When you get a key made, always take the bike to the locksmith too. Then if it doesn't work, they will fix it or cut another key on the spot until it does work. And they might have a clue what's going on too if they can manipulate the bike ignition and other locks.

There have also been a few instances where someone had seat, bags and gas cap of one bike and ignition from another due to theft damage or other reasons. The cheap solution was to cut one side of the key to the locks and the other to the ignition. I don't think this is the issue here, but it could be.

If you didn't know, and didn't tell the locksmith, they are only using one side to cut the key, so could have used the non ignition side and that would only work in the seat/gas cap/bags which only allow part of the key to insert, not the entire length like the ignition.

I'd just take the bike to the locksmith and get a couple of keys made. Sounds simple, eh? If they don't work in everything, walk back inside and let the pro do his thing. You will leave with working keys 99% of the time.

Also, they sell Yamaha key blanks.... so you don't really know if it's the "original" key, only that it's a Yamaha key blank. And I'm guessing that if you only got one key with the bike, you didn't get the key code either, (although I usually write it down in the owner's manual for reference and in case the key tag gets lost.
 

mituk

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A couple of things come to mind here. When you get a key made, always take the bike to the locksmith too. Then if it doesn't work, they will fix it or cut another key on the spot until it does work. And they might have a clue what's going on too if they can manipulate the bike ignition and other locks.

There have also been a few instances where someone had seat, bags and gas cap of one bike and ignition from another due to theft damage or other reasons. The cheap solution was to cut one side of the key to the locks and the other to the ignition. I don't think this is the issue here, but it could be.

If you didn't know, and didn't tell the locksmith, they are only using one side to cut the key, so could have used the non ignition side and that would only work in the seat/gas cap/bags which only allow part of the key to insert, not the entire length like the ignition.

I'd just take the bike to the locksmith and get a couple of keys made. Sounds simple, eh? If they don't work in everything, walk back inside and let the pro do his thing. You will leave with working keys 99% of the time.

Also, they sell Yamaha key blanks.... so you don't really know if it's the "original" key, only that it's a Yamaha key blank. And I'm guessing that if you only got one key with the bike, you didn't get the key code either, (although I usually write it down in the owner's manual for reference and in case the key tag gets lost.
Hey Guys - finally made it back here. . . great information from all, thanks so much for the education on how this works and your experiences. This last is really interesting - didn't know that only one side functioned actively - that really helps in visualizing how it goes. So tonight I rode it 15 miles to the hardware store, and when I got out, the key wouldn't work at all. It would still go in, but wouldn't turn on either side. Had to call a buddy to give me a lift home so I could get the trailer and tow.

So I'm guessing the cylinder is junk at this point and will see about getting it replaced. From looking at the triple tree while I was waiting for my ride, it looks like if I just pop the handlebars off, loosen it at the fork tubes, take the nut off holding it to the steering head, and release the cables from the guides that it should come off. oh, and unplug the ignition wires somewhere - not sure where. Can anyone confirm this is the easiest way to get to the switch? There's a lock shop in town that will fix it if I can bring it in.
Thanks y'all!
Dave
 

OldRider

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Hey Guys - finally made it back here. . . great information from all, thanks so much for the education on how this works and your experiences. This last is really interesting - didn't know that only one side functioned actively - that really helps in visualizing how it goes. So tonight I rode it 15 miles to the hardware store, and when I got out, the key wouldn't work at all. It would still go in, but wouldn't turn on either side. Had to call a buddy to give me a lift home so I could get the trailer and tow.

So I'm guessing the cylinder is junk at this point and will see about getting it replaced. From looking at the triple tree while I was waiting for my ride, it looks like if I just pop the handlebars off, loosen it at the fork tubes, take the nut off holding it to the steering head, and release the cables from the guides that it should come off. oh, and unplug the ignition wires somewhere - not sure where. Can anyone confirm this is the easiest way to get to the switch? There's a lock shop in town that will fix it if I can bring it in.
Thanks y'all!
Dave
But, can you trust it out in the middle of bfe, 200 miles from the nearest Yamaha dealer or locksmith? I'm putting a new switch on. JMO
 

EricV

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I seem to recall the two bolts holding the ignition switch in are one time use and need to be ground off & ez-outed. IIRC, you can order new bolts or use standard ones. The factory bolts have heads that are usually snapped off after install. They look like this:
bolt.jpeg
 

mituk

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Just ordered the switch - $151 out the door, but it will take 10 or so days to get here. In the meantime I'll remove the triple tree and watch some Youtube on drilling out the old bolts. EricV thanks for the pic on how those work.
Anybody know how far back you have to trace the ignition wire pigtail is until there is a disconnect? looks like at least tank removal is called for. . . .
 

Saint rob

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Just ordered the switch - $151 out the door, but it will take 10 or so days to get here. In the meantime I'll remove the triple tree and watch some Youtube on drilling out the old bolts. EricV thanks for the pic on how those work.
Anybody know how far back you have to trace the ignition wire pigtail is until there is a disconnect? looks like at least tank removal is called for. . . .
I wouldn’t drill them out, use a sharp centre punch and hammer to loosen them by tapping the head round anti clockwise, once loosened they will come out easy enough. Over the years I’ve done dozens like this ( mostly on cars) and never had a problem.
 

mituk

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I wouldn’t drill them out, use a sharp centre punch and hammer to loosen them by tapping the head round anti clockwise, once loosened they will come out easy enough. Over the years I’ve done dozens like this ( mostly on cars) and never had a problem.
Will take a look at that. Got the triple tree off last night, now just have to find the wiring disconnect and I'll be able to take a good look at how to get that switch out.
THanks!
Dave
 

mituk

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Found where the ignition wire disconnect is - right above the battery. Now have to figure out how the plastic connector works, as its tough to see much of it. Might end up waiting on the new switch to see if that will give a clue as to how to undo it. It would be just my luck to break something and have to tow the bike to a shop for wiring work.
 

Cycledude

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Getting stock or aftermarket parts for the Tenere has been a problem for quite awhile and it keeps getting worse.
 

ZigZag

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In a similar vein the S10 I bought 4 weeks ago only came with one ignition key which the PO nearly mangled showing me how to unlock the panniers. I wasn't too worried as I have previously had a Honda HISS key cloned by my local locksmith. Initially things weren't looking quite as easy with my Yamaha key. Threads here about needing the red key to code any replacements. A visit to the original dealer who sold the bike new to the PO said the only solution was to buy new ignition, ecu, immobilizer, locks, and keys. 12 week wait minimum and $3600 plus labour. Yeah, nah I'll look at other options. A few phone calls later and some phone tag with a mobile locksmith and I had a name of a locksmith who could clone from my one and only black key. Incredibly he was 5 minutes from my house. Outcome was one dumb key, a cloned transponder and a piece of sticky tape which when cobbled together starts the bike beautifully. I'll ditch the sticky tape naturally and glue the transponder to the top of the blade of the key with some epoxy. Then I should be good to go.
 

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RIVA

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In a similar vein the S10 I bought 4 weeks ago only came with one ignition key which the PO nearly mangled showing me how to unlock the panniers. I wasn't too worried as I have previously had a Honda HISS key cloned by my local locksmith. Initially things weren't looking quite as easy with my Yamaha key. Threads here about needing the red key to code any replacements. A visit to the original dealer who sold the bike new to the PO said the only solution was to buy new ignition, ecu, immobilizer, locks, and keys. 12 week wait minimum and $3600 plus labour. Yeah, nah I'll look at other options. A few phone calls later and some phone tag with a mobile locksmith and I had a name of a locksmith who could clone from my one and only black key. Incredibly he was 5 minutes from my house. Outcome was one dumb key, a cloned transponder and a piece of sticky tape which when cobbled together starts the bike beautifully. I'll ditch the sticky tape naturally and glue the transponder to the top of the blade of the key with some epoxy. Then I should be good to go.
Now that is Aussie ingenuity. :)
 

Saint rob

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For those of us in the UK (or outside of the UK if you can ship your stuff to them) this place can make you a new red key if you need one or can produce black keys from a black key
 

ZigZag

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Only problem with the Aussie ingenuity, which I'll claim as Kiwi ingenuity as I'm a Kiwi and my ingenuity skills all came from there, it didn't work. before the epoxy had fully cured I tried the dumb key with glued on transponder. The red key symbol n the dash came on and went off twice and the bike wouldn't start. So I carefully cut the transponder off, started and stopped the the bike with the genuine key, then using the sticky tape held the transponder on the plastic part of the key and it started no worries. I'm guessing the transponder needs to be on the plastic to work. Either that or the sticky tape has a key role to play in all of this.:rolleyes:
 

Dneprrider

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Thanks for the link Saint Rob. The information about the black ring being the antenna for the immobiliser makes it easy yo understand where the transponder needs to be on the key bow. I've epoxied it to the bow as per photo and it works perfectly.
You could alternatively affix the transponder to the black ring as opposed to placing in on the key. Then make as many replacement keys as you want. Keys can get lost at the worst possible time. Plus the key wouldn't have a transponder bump on it that could get snagged or broken off.
 
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OldRider

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Apparently nobody stocks these switches - the dates on getting a new one are now in July Looking on Ebay, but nothing there I would trust yet. . . . wow, didn't expect parts for this bike to be scarce like this.
A Yamaha dealer can run the part number and do a nation wide search to see if any dealer in the country has one in stock. If your dealer won't do that send me a message and I'll give you the number to a dealer that will.
 

ZigZag

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You could alternatively affix the transponder to the black ring as opposed to placing in on the key. Then make as many replacement keys as you want. Keys can get lost at the worst possible time. Plus the key wouldn't have a transponder bump on it that could get snagged or broken off.
I thought about that too Dneprrider, but it means the immobiliser is permanently disabled. The transponder is at risk of being knocked off or snagging as you say. I'm thinking about options for addressing that issue.
 
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