not too bad! my '12 is at 115k miles (185k km) and running like a champ. it does have the 14+ clutch basket and cam chain tensioner. uses a quart of oil every 4k or so.213k kms. Most of that was 2 lane roads, lots of gravel and old chip seal roads. From my research, the engine problems were very rare.
I bought one from Harbor Freight a few years ago, cheap and works great.I use an air wedge to easily deal with the rear wheel removal/install. Pump up the air bag to hold the tire/wheel in place.
Put the bike in gear, remove the axle, washer, caliper, the ABS wire, the hub covering the ABS ring, then reinstall the axle and slide the wheel to the right off the splines……no fuss, no muss and the rubber dampers stay intact with the cush hub. Pull the axle and remove the wheel.
Reinstall the wheel by pumping up the air wedge under the tire in line with the final drive, slide the axle through the wheel and final drive. Slide the wheel to the left and engage the splines with the bike in gear. Remove the axle, leave the wheel in place supported by the air wedge and reinstall the brake side components…….tighten/torque everything and you are done.
Air wedges can be found on EBay or Amazon…….
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I also had a DCT AT, mine was a 2016. Agree on the crappy build quality, in the 2 years I owned it the DCT broke down mid-commute, stranding me, and the fuel pump, idle control valve and headlight switch gear broke as well. What led me to sell it back to the dealer though, was the intermittent stalling pulling away from stops, which the dealer couldn't fix and which Honda told me was a "big twin characteristic."I loved the DCT on my Africa Twin. Once you adjust to it, it's fucking brilliant. I'd have it on any bike.
The rest of the bike is built in North Korea out of chinesium. The most un-Honda Honda I've ever owned.
I cannot talk enough shit about that thing. 5 sets of fork seals, corroded spokes after 2 weeks out of the crate, rust at the frame welds after 5 months. The list goes on and on. It was a 16 model.
So, over the years, I've joked about having the only perfect Super Tenere made. But what you're describing is what I've been experiencing; the near perfect ride. There's been some conjecture that the fueling was improved/altered in '17.. . . . The 18 has none of these quirks. . . .
Yeah, when I got the DCT I only thought about how easy my 40 mile commute through city traffic would be. Live and learn. It seems the Honda E-Clutch retains the clutch lever, so perhaps the best of both worlds?Boy, I never thought about not having a clutch lever. I'd have to relearn how to ride. Because I really think my clutch manipulation is how I subconsciously smooth out the throttle.
I wish Yamaha had evolved the S10 and given it an up/down quickshifter. Love the one on my MT-09, a real labor saver in heavy traffic. Its clutch is also much lighter, which is nice when you're constantly using it.I'll just stick with my old fashioned clutch WITH a lever.![]()
The DCT and the Africa Twin have both been quite improved since 2016.I also had a DCT AT, mine was a 2016. Agree on the crappy build quality, in the 2 years I owned it the DCT broke down mid-commute, stranding me, and the fuel pump, idle control valve and headlight switch gear broke as well. What led me to sell it back to the dealer though, was the intermittent stalling pulling away from stops, which the dealer couldn't fix and which Honda told me was a "big twin characteristic."
I didn't care for the DCT tranny either and would never buy another bike without a clutch lever. While the DCT was fine for simple droning alone, for spirited or off-pavement riding it rarely shifted when I would have, and often did it when I didn't want it to, for example mid-corner.
The lack of a clutch lever also made it impossible to finely modulate the power for maneuvers like u-turns or other times when you want total control of the drive to the rear wheel, and the brakes are a poor substitute for that. Also, good luck stopping the bike from sliding down you get stuck on a hill climb. No way to put it in gear and lock the back wheel and the brakes may not hold it. As I learned the hard way.
My MT-09 has a very light clutch pull and an excellent up/down quick shifter. That's the way to go imo.
The DCT and the Africa Twin have both been quite improved since 2016.
YMMV...![]()
I have read about a lot of Africa Twins doing this but on the same token I have read about several brands of bikes doing this. My Super T was one of them. Funny thing is when I do demo rides all the bikes run perfectly. I have a sneaky feeling the demo bikes are all manipulated in some form that you would not get buying new. Of course I have rode a Suzuki Vstrom and a couple BMWs and a couple Harleys that stumbled and surged and basically ran like crap at low rpm and light throttle settings. I am sure they were what you would get if you bought one. I don't think they were doctored up before being put into the demo fleet. I did demo a DCT and it was actually pretty good in town and just fooling around. I didn't like it and would not buy one. Maybe if i was buying a Gold Wing but not even sure on that. I definitely would not buy one on Africa Twin. Having DCT on that bike really doesn't make any sense to me.What led me to sell it back to the dealer though, was the intermittent stalling pulling away from stops, which the dealer couldn't fix and which Honda told me was a "big twin characteristic."
I found a couple of situations that had me really appreciate the dct time and again.DCT, as good as it may or may not be, I see no logical need to want one as there is no scenario where any automatic transmission works better than manually shifting. Add the complexity and probable incompetent service if problems do arise, the whole system seems to be a very bad choice in the long run to me. Just my opinion.