How much oil do you put in?

[Slags]

I changed my oil yesterday - now engine light is on
I read a thread and topped it off with 4 qts of Amsoil 10w-40 - engine light still on
How many quarts do you all put in to your engine?
2013 S10
Thanks so much

 

[gunslinger_006]

Oil capacity: 3.4L-3.6L per change, motor holds 4.2.

That is what i have in my notes. I follow it every time. Works.

If you put 4.0Q in, that is 3.78 liters, sounds just about right.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Tenforeplay]

My 2023 manual says 3.1L, 3.28 US qt, or 2.73 Imp qt.

With oil filter: 3.4L, 3.59 US qt, 2.99 Imp qt.

With filter I changed mine using 3.5 qts, thought it was low and put some more in, then it ended up being too high so drained what looked like same amount or more out. It's at the top of the mark now, no oil light.

If you overfill and get the oil light the oil may be aerated, and the sensor detects this as low oil level.... using imagination. Or the oil pump can not pump aerated oil as well and the pressure is low, again oil light may detect this. Or the filter may be defective....

 

[Slags]

My 2023 manual says 3.1L, 3.28 US qt, or 2.73 Imp qt.

With oil filter: 3.4L, 3.59 US qt, 2.99 Imp qt.

With filter I changed mine using 3.5 qts, thought it was low and put some more in, then it ended up being too high so drained what looked like same amount or more out. It's at the top of the mark now, no oil light.

If you overfill and get the oil light the oil may be aerated, and the sensor detects this as low oil level.... using imagination. Or the oil pump can not pump aerated oil as well and the pressure is low, again oil light may detect this. Or the filter may be defective....

Thanks so much! I’ll trouble shoot this today

 

[WJBertrand]

3.75 Qt, (with filter change) puts the level right at the half way mark every time for me.

 

[RCinNC]

I think we need to backtrack on here for a second.

Are you saying the engine light is on, or do you mean that the low level oil light is on? I have a 2014 model, so our instrument pods are different, but on mine there's a separate warning light for the engine and the oil level sensor. If your oil light is on, and you know you have the right amount of oil in the bike (because you just put the oil in), then I'd ride the bike for about ten minutes and see if the oil level light went out. The oil level sensors in these bikes are a mechanical float sensor, so it's certainly conceivable that a mechanical float sensor got stuck.

If your engine light is on, that's a different set of issues that don't relate to your oil level. Is there a code displayed on the instrument screen that coincides with the engine light? I believe there's an internal onboard diagnostic mode on the 2013 model that'll allow you to access the fault codes to help you figure out why the engine light might be on.

 

[Cycledude]

I changed my oil yesterday - now engine light is on
I read a thread and topped it off with 4 qts of Amsoil 10w-40 - engine light still on
How many quarts do you all put in to your engine?
2013 S10
Thanks so much

I change oil and filter at the same time even though Yamaha recommends only changing the filter every other oil change, I try to pour in slightly less than 3.6 us quarts, start engine and go for short ride the oil window will indicate on the high mark when warm but slightly less when the oil is cold. One of the first times I changed oil in my previous 2013 thought I did everything right even the short test ride but the next day as I was riding out the driveway to go to work the oil light came on so I turned around and put it back in garage and took Goldwing to work Instead. When I got home I added a little more oil and the oil light never came on again. I have never noticed either of my Tenere’s using oil, in fact they always seem to get a little fuller by the next oil change.

 

[RCinNC]

I noticed that you have two different threads going right now about the same general issue (your engine light is on after an oil change), but you don't include the same info in each post. Your other post mentions a code "42", which has nothing to do with the oil level or how much oil you should put in the crankcase. Based on what I've read in the two posts, your oil level has nothing to do with the engine light being on, and whatever amount of oil you put in the crankcase during your oil change was fine, because your oil level light didn't come on after the change. Adding or subtracting oil isn't going to make the engine light go out, but it might cause you to overfill the crankcase, if you keep adding oil when you shouldn't.

When you post multiple threads about the same issue, but don't include the same information in each post, you're probably going to generate conflicting solutions from members, which just makes your troubleshooting job more difficult.

The advice you've been given about the amount of oil to add is solid advice, but it won't solve your engine light issue.

 

[~TABASCO~]

I’m probably “not normal”……. When I drain the oil I lean my bike over a bit and drain as much as possible. Typically I will let it also drain over night and I come back and lean the bike…. Etc. I know, I’m a Nut.

When I go to fill my bike up after doing this. It almost always takes a whole gallon + 1/2 qt or so

I NEVER just pour in a prescribed amount. I always start the bike, circulate the oil, wait a bit of time and look in the window. The second or third time adding oil I pour it to the top hash mark.

I then double check everything.

I’m not that particular!!!! Ha-Ha-Ha-Ha

My friends make fun………. It’s OK….. Ha-Ha

 

[Sierra1]

I changed my oil yesterday - now engine light is on
I read a thread and topped it off with 4 qts of Amsoil 10w-40 - engine light still on
How many quarts do you all put in to your engine?
2013 S10
Thanks so much

I thought we settled this in your other "oil" post. The light and error code were/are not related.

 

[Tenforeplay]

I don’t understand how there can be such a wide variation in the amount of oil to fill. 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 qts?

 

[Sierra1]

I don’t understand how there can be such a wide variation in the amount of oil to fill. 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 qts?

Something to do with the semi dry sump. And the two oil plug/pans. I've never drained as long as Jaxon, but I always use the whole jug.

 

[holligl]

I always change the filter with the oil. I will take a gallon, pull off 12 ounces, and pour it in. That always puts me in the middle of the window on the center stand after a full warmup and the 10-15 min wait for the oil to settle. I would not feel bad putting the additional 12 oz in, but that would probably put the oil at the top of the window, and I like to be able to see it. Plus, after a few changes I've saved enough oil I can just buy 3 quarts. I can't believe how expensive the oil and filters have gotten.

 

[RCinNC]

I don't know whether there's a wide variation; only that some people need to add more to their bikes in order to get the low level oil light to go out.

Since there's no variation in the size of the oil reservoirs between individual bikes that would cause one bike to need more oil than another to reach the "full" level, then the variation must be due to the oil level sensor. Maybe some of them stick in the low position more than others, and need to be submerged deeper in the oil in order for the buoyancy of the float to overcome the stickiness and rise to the level that deactivates the low level light.

This is a photo of the oil level sensor:

It's a pretty simple device. You add oil, the float "floats" on the rising oil level and breaks the electrical contact in the circuit that causes the low oil level light to come on (because, when the oil is too low, the float can't "float" on the oil, and the low level oil warning circuit is complete). I can see there being some variation from bike to bike on how the float responds. Back in the carburetor days, even though the floats were mass produced and theoretically all the same, you still had to occasionally adjust the float's position in the bowl to get the fuel inflow to shut off correctly. That was a mechanical linkage and not a mechanical/electrical one like the oil sensor, but the concept is the same.

Anyhow, that's my theory for this particular mystery. The usual disclaimer that I might be full of crap always applies.

 

[Matt51F1]

Anyhow, that's my theory for this particular mystery. The usual disclaimer that I might be full of crap always applies.

You’re going to have to try harder if you’re going to be full of crap on this one

From my perspective, the oil filter must ALWAYS be changed with every oil change & it’s a good idea to start the bike to let it prime everything in the oil system when you’re about 3/4 full. Let it sit for a few minutes & then top it off.

I don’t go on what goes in. I buy multiples of oil due to having a few bikes & the amount that goes in is what it needs.

My TDMs (900) use over 4 litres each but they’re also dry sump.

 

[Tenforeplay]

I sometimes wonder when the world changed from every other oil change to every one for the filter.

 

[Matt51F1]

I sometimes wonder when the world changed from every other oil change to every one for the filter.

I remember those days as well but I recall that was more for cars than bikes. People I talk to who’ve been riding for 50 years have told me they have always changed the filter for every change.

Then again, way back then, you could only get mineral oil whereas most now are using synthetic.

For the cost of a filter & the cost of wear in a motor, it’s a good investment trade off.

 

[Slags]

Good information thank you
Took a quick ride around the neighborhood and all is back to normal- no engine light, no abs and no 42 code
I must be doing something right!

 

[RCinNC]

I'm honestly surprised that some manufacturers (like Yamaha) recommend an "every other oil change" interval for changing filters. After all, Yamaha sells filters; they're losing money by not recommending a new filter with every oil change. It makes you wonder what their rationale is to pass up a lucrative profit stream. What's the markup on a Yamaha filter, I wonder? 150%? More? That's a lot of money to voluntarily turn away, when it would be just as easy to say "change it every time"? Especially since a lot of riders (maybe even the majority of them) are going to change the filter every time anyway.

Almost makes you think that there must be some other reason that isn't money related that helped them arrive at their decision. Maybe an engineering reason?

 

[Sierra1]

. . . Maybe an engineering reason?