How I swapped my CCT

[Toxic Mark]

I swapped my CCT today. Here's how I did it.

1) I put the bike on the side stand
2) I straight up removed the tank. I like working room.
3) Then I removed the clutch cover.
4) I located the CCT. It is situated between the air box and the frame under some wires on the right side of the bike.

 

[Toxic Mark]

5) then I zip-tied the smaller wires to the left. The big corrugated bundle I left free and just nudged it over as needed to gain access to the 5mm bolts.

 

[Toxic Mark]

6) I used an ball-end hex key because I couldn't get a straight shot to the bolt on the right. The pictures above are of the replacement CCT with the black bolts, btw.

7) After breaking the bolts loose, I backed them out slowly while watching and listening for any chain movement. I don't know if slipping a tooth makes any noise, but I thought I would be quiet and listen in case it does. With both bolts removed I slipped the old CCT and its gasket out and set it aside.

8) I unpackaged the new black bolts and CCT and gasket, oriented the gasket, and slid the new CCT into place being careful not to bump it around as I didn't want to release the tensioner prematurely.

9) Then I threaded the new bolts on finger tight followed by alternating tightening them the rest of the way bit by bit with the 5mm hex key.

 

[Toxic Mark]

Does 8) make a smoking emoticon? WTF?

 

[Toxic Mark]

Seriously! God dammit! It's supposed to be the number eight followed by end parentheses. Not 8)!

 

[Toxic Mark]

Anyway, now the new CCT and bolts are installed. I didn't see the chain move or hear anything during the process. So now...time to release the tensioner.

The manual has a drawing that basically looks like the following on 5-22...telling you to "push" the timing chain guide in the direction of the arrow with a screwdriver to release the tensioner rod.

 

[Toxic Mark]

I tried "pushing" it and was either too weak or too timid to push hard enough to get the guide to move. I thought I heard a "click" and thus thought I had released the tensioner rod, but other posts on here referred to releasing the rod as needing a "good whack". So I went back into the garage put my screwdriver in place and hit the handle of the screwdriver with a mallet. The guide moved. With the whack I saw the guide swivel toward the clutch basket a good half inch or so then snap back into position. A repeated strike with the mallet with equal, the greater, force could not get the guide to move again. So I feel at this time I really did successfully release the tensioner rod.

 

[Toxic Mark]

Does it all work?

I don't know. I still am in the process of replacing the clutch basket and therefore have not started my bike to see if it is gloriously smooth as a 2014 or detonates like a frag grenade. I will certainly let you know how it turns out when it's all buttoned back up and I don't have any "spare" bolts. So stay tuned!

-Mark

 

[Dogdaze]

That was extremely helpful, thanks.
What mileage do you have on your bike and did you change the CCT because you needed to or 'just in case'?
Please keep us posted.

 

[EricV]

Nice post Mark, now Mzee will stop annoying everyone until he needs to change his spark plugs.

If you want to avoid 8), you have to add a space between them 8 ). Kind of dumb. Some forums support a 'list' feature that cancels emoticon use. Having tried it here, (don't remember how off the top of my head).

 

[Koinz]

Anyway, now the new CCT and bolts are installed. I didn't see the chain move or hear anything during the process. So now...time to release the tensioner.

The manual has a drawing that basically looks like the following on 5-22...telling you to "push" the timing chain guide in the direction of the arrow with a screwdriver to release the tensioner rod.

I'm glad it didn't jump a tooth or anything. On the same page you reference it also provides a tip to tie the chain to the intake cam gear. I don't want to get into the right or wrong way to it, but did you secure the chain anywhere (like a plastic tie wrap between the chain to keep it tight)? 8)

 

[imcja]

I tried "pushing" it and was

Good write up Mark! Thx...I was going to add one but was a bit gun shy as I didn't use any zips on the cam chain either.

And sorry I was headed to bed after replying in the other thread about releasing the plunger. I'm surprised a good hard push didn't release it...you most likely would have heard a faint metallic click, but I suspect the noise of whacking with a mallet would drowned that out.

If you don't mind here's a couple options.

Another option to remove/install the right bolt is a short hex-allen bit and a quarter inch wrench.

Regarding the wiring harness. There is a plastic clip/retainer taped to the harness which is connected to a small t-post on the frame right above the CCT. (you can see it in Mark's photos). You can use a small flathead to disengage the plastic tab and slide it down off the tab, not up...down. I was able to get enough slack in all the wires to zip-tie to the left. Tied them to the loop that juts down off the bottom of the tank.

And like you stated; don't drop the new CCT on the plunger...no one has time for that, and I pity anyone within earshot.

 

[Toxic Mark]

That was extremely helpful, thanks.
What mileage do you have on your bike and did you change the CCT because you needed to or 'just in case'?
Please keep us posted.

It was more precautionary. The bike only has 8000 mi on it.

 

[imcja]

Anyway, now the new CCT and bolts are installed. I didn't see the chain move or hear anything during the process. So now...time to release the tensioner.

The manual has a drawing that basically looks like the following on 5-22...telling you to "push" the timing chain guide in the direction of the arrow with a screwdriver to release the tensioner rod.

My only suggestion here is to get the screwdriver (or whatever you use) closer to the CCT...move up to the highest point for better leverage.

 

[Dogdaze]

It was more precautionary. The bike only has 8000 mi on it.

So it's a case of when not if then? Mine has 13k miles on it, I'm reluctant to undertake anything yet as I've only owned it for 3 weeks and already have issue with the supplying dealer's 'prep' ::007::

 

[Koinz]

So it's a case of when not if then? Mine has 13k miles on it, I'm reluctant to undertake anything yet as I've only owned it for 3 weeks and already have issue with the supplying dealer's 'prep' ::007::

unless you're hearing some chain slop when you first start it, it's not critical to get it done right away. Mine started out with some rattle every once in awhile, then the frequency changed to almost every first start of the day. That's when I went to the dealer and had them replace it under the YES warranty.

 

[Toxic Mark]

I'm glad it didn't jump a tooth or anything. On the same page you reference it also provides a tip to tie the chain to the intake cam gear. I don't want to get into the right or wrong way to it, but did you secure the chain anywhere (like a plastic tie wrap between the chain to keep it tight)? 8)

No. I'm not much of a mechanic and did not want to take the valve cover off. I guess what I should have done is taken a Sharpie and marked a link of the chain and the pickup rotor like this...and then checked to see if the marks were still lined up after all was said and done.

 

[Toxic Mark]

My only suggestion here is to get the screwdriver (or whatever you use) closer to the CCT...move up to the highest point for better leverage.

Where were you yesterday? LOL. Good tip

 

[imcja]

taken a Sharpie and marked a link of the chain and the pickup rotor like this...and then checked to see if the marks were still lined up after all was said and done.

Probably wouldn't have saved you (us) as the culprit is the upper cam gears jumping not the crank gear...suspect the marks would remain lined up if one of the cams jumped a tooth.

Where were you yesterday? LOL. Good tip

Sleeping.

 

[AVGeek]

Nice post Mark, now Mzee will stop annoying everyone until he needs to change his spark plugs.

If you want to avoid 8), you have to add a space between them 8 ). Kind of dumb. Some forums support a 'list' feature that cancels emoticon use. Having tried it here, (don't remember how off the top of my head).

On the reply page, under Attachments and other options, there is a check box for "Don't use smileys". I've checked it on this reply.