Nikolajsen
"Keep it simple"
Yes, as wrote above. I also think it is normal.
Hot rear rotor.
- Thread starter Epping
- Start date
Using the rear brake will shift braking load to the rear which can, depending on speed and relative lever pressures, lead to overheating. Light rear braking in light to moderate stopping isn't a big deal., but if you start asking the rear brake to do the majority of the braking on a heavy bike like the S10, you are going to overheat it in anything but light stopping. There's a reason there are two big front discs and only a puny single rear - the bike is designed to have the vast majority of braking done with the front.xtadvrider said:
We're taught in beginning motorcycle safety classes to use both brakes together, but the front (due to weight shift) does most of the work in normal braking and almost all of the work in emergency braking. So even on a bike with non-linked brakes, there is little reason to use the rear brake except in unusual situations. With linked brakes like the S10 there is VERY little reason to use the rear brake lever.
- Mark
Dogdaze
Well-Known Member
markjenn said:
::026:: I never use the rear for normal riding, unless I want to disengage it, so tap it lightly before grabbing the front lever.
Nikolajsen
"Keep it simple"
Poeple are different 
I actually use the rear brake a lot.
I find it more comfortable to brake with the rear, than the front, and on my sundays ride...well thats all that is needed (normally)
On my Transalp I had to change the rear brake disc (rotor), before the front disc...And I guess it will be the same on the S10.
I actually use the rear brake a lot.
I find it more comfortable to brake with the rear, than the front, and on my sundays ride...well thats all that is needed
(normally)On my Transalp I had to change the rear brake disc (rotor), before the front disc...And I guess it will be the same on the S10.
Fine, but how you use the brakes front-to-rear is a not a simple matter of preference.... there are some major safety issues with over-reliance on the rear brake. It is the most common error I noted when I used to teach experienced rider MSF courses.Nikolajsen said:Poeple are different
I actually use the rear brake a lot.
I find it more comfortable to brake with the rear, than the front, and on my sundays ride...well thats all that is needed
- Mark
Nikolajsen
"Keep it simple"
??? Are you talking bacic braking stuff?markjenn said:
You are of course absolutly correct, but I did not think the bacis was needed on this forum.
This is my first bike with ABS, and before I had never had a rear (or front) wheel "lock up", unless on gravel..
I was just countering the notion that I got from your post that rear braking was just a simple matter of preference. If this was getting too 'basic" for the audience on this forum, I apologize.Nikolajsen said:
- Mark
Nikolajsen
"Keep it simple"
No need to apologize.
I was just surprised, that this wasn't "implied".
I mean, considering the average age here
I was just surprised, that this wasn't "implied".
I mean, considering the average age here
Ramseybella
Well-Known Member
The rear differential will produce lots of heat when the bike in action as well, this heat can transfer to the other side.
Using the rear break with finesse is always a matter of using common sense when applying them.
Not like this bike is made for Trials, rock hopping and tree stump dancing.
Using the rear break with finesse is always a matter of using common sense when applying them.
Not like this bike is made for Trials, rock hopping and tree stump dancing.
tallpaul
Well-Known Member
Differential? I thought it was just a crown wheel and pinion. Why would a motorbike have a diff?
Nikolajsen
"Keep it simple"
tallpaul said:
LOL - Nomenclature. With a single rear wheel, there is nothing to differentiate.
We could just call it the pumpkin.
tallpaul
Well-Known Member
That's what I thought!
Ramseybella
Well-Known Member
Glad i amused three people. ???
Sorry for the misconception.
Sorry for the misconception.
Ramseybella
Well-Known Member
No problem!!! ::008::
Don't let it happen again...
I have a new rotor and pads ready for when the rear tire get replaced.
I may be able to push another set of pads through the old Rotor but it's a bit cut down after 83k miles.
Don't let it happen again...
I have a new rotor and pads ready for when the rear tire get replaced.
I may be able to push another set of pads through the old Rotor but it's a bit cut down after 83k miles.
2daMax
Active Member
Prior to my rear pads that needed changing, I was totally ignorant about brakes. My rear pads was totally gone at 23k km and was braking with the backplate to the rotor. I did checked the pad thickness recently and it was about 1mm and totally forgot about it. Front has still got about 3mm.
Didn't know how to change pads so rode like a grandma to the shop and avoiding to brake or if needed, try not to use the LBS. After the change, noticed the mech did not lube the sliders so I had to do it when I got home (having seen how he does it, simple enough to do). I touched the rotors and they were too warm to hold for more than 2 secs. I spun the wheel on the double stand and it appears tighter than before. Then it struck me, I had topped up some fluids recently, and having new thick pads, the reservoir was at overfilled condition when the brake pistons has to open up. No space for the fluid to flow. Bled out till the max line, spun the wheel and noticed it was like before.
Nevertheless, the rotors are warm or warmer depending on the ambient. Over here with 32/33 C ambient, the rotors are warm but I can hold it. Now looking at a DIY project on pads drag reduction springs for the floating rear.
Front rotors are always cold.
I forgot to inspect the original pads, can anyone who still has it remembers what are the engravings on them? The front pads has "Sumitomo TOYO" with a model number which I can't recall, and has the 'HH' engraved on it. I am concern of the type of material for the rear pads. I think I got a semi-metallic pads.
Didn't know how to change pads so rode like a grandma to the shop and avoiding to brake or if needed, try not to use the LBS. After the change, noticed the mech did not lube the sliders so I had to do it when I got home (having seen how he does it, simple enough to do). I touched the rotors and they were too warm to hold for more than 2 secs. I spun the wheel on the double stand and it appears tighter than before. Then it struck me, I had topped up some fluids recently, and having new thick pads, the reservoir was at overfilled condition when the brake pistons has to open up. No space for the fluid to flow. Bled out till the max line, spun the wheel and noticed it was like before.
Nevertheless, the rotors are warm or warmer depending on the ambient. Over here with 32/33 C ambient, the rotors are warm but I can hold it. Now looking at a DIY project on pads drag reduction springs for the floating rear.
Front rotors are always cold.
I forgot to inspect the original pads, can anyone who still has it remembers what are the engravings on them? The front pads has "Sumitomo TOYO" with a model number which I can't recall, and has the 'HH' engraved on it. I am concern of the type of material for the rear pads. I think I got a semi-metallic pads.
hobdayd
Member
You do not need pad drag reduction springs. You run the risk of no rear brake when you need it. Parasitic drag is normal and is not an issue. Temperature rise as a result of parasitic drag is not an issue. (Only a binding brake is an issue).
Leave your brakes as designed...a slight running clearance is generated by the piston seal. If your off brake disc temperatures are around 40 deg C higher than ambient all is well and does not significantly affect disc or pad wear.
Leave your brakes as designed...a slight running clearance is generated by the piston seal. If your off brake disc temperatures are around 40 deg C higher than ambient all is well and does not significantly affect disc or pad wear.
Dogdaze
Well-Known Member
Semi-metallic are fine for the rear, they do get hotter than the front rotors, less air flow and they are used when front are applied, so quite normal.
++ What hobdayd said, he should know!
++ What hobdayd said, he should know!
Agreed. And going with what Fennellg wrote, it's not abnormal for the rear differential to get too hot to keep your hand on. There are several threads about each of these topics.