Hot rear rotor.

Cycledude

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Out of curiosity I actually tried the synthetic final drive oil, the oil looks a little different and costs more but as far as temperature I couldn’t notice any difference, after this bottle is used up I don’t plan on buying it again.
 

EricV

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I don't wants premature leaks. The savings go into more frequent changes. Every other oil change.
Opinions vary. Experience is truth. You won't experience premature leaks by using synthetic gear oil unless it's some odd exotic. Valvoline Synpower. Years and literally hundreds of thousands of miles with no leaks.

Synthetic oils are engineered, not just distilled. :eek:
 

2daMax

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Thanks for the opinions. My final drive is on Fully Synthetic GL5 75W90 Redline gear oil. I never measured before or after compared to mineral oil. Anyway it is not a concern for me on the Final Drive temps, as they work as they are and nothing more I can do to make it more efficient except to change the fluids more frequently to remove metal debris that maybe the cause of early seal failures.

Reduced parasitic drag = better efficiency. That is all I am after. I know it is no issue with the current design, and most live with it's drag which is a cost trade off, IMO of using a floating caliper (lower cost) versus a fixed caliper with double sided pistons (like our fronts). There is hardly any drag on the fronts from what I see on the cold rotors. If brakes were designed to have parasitic drag, then the fronts ought to have some warming to it but it isn't so. If we can have reduced drag without affecting braking performance, why not (and if it is super cheap)

On my quest of such a solution I saw a patent on a single piston caliper with retractable piston mechanism. Many more parts involved and that would surely be more costly and probably a double sided piston solution would end up cheaper.

Questions to be answered.

1) What is the acceptable drag inefficiency as in the stock rear brakes costing the fuel mileage compared to with less drag? Let's experiment with less drag and see what the numbers are. This will tell if it is worth the while.

2) Is the parasitic drag causing quicker wear to the pads? This is the question that I have but won't be answered so soon without using the same Yamaha pads. Can't find them in where I live. International shipping is prohibitive.

None of it is purely scientific because of uncontrolled environments but will evaluate based on the average commuting routes I take.

I have made the spring clips and have installed them. Cost me a quarter. I will post it (on a new topic) if they are feasible solutions after going through some real world tests. So far, it does not affect braking. Worth the while or waste of time......let's just see.

Another reason for my curiosity was on my wife's Prius C. She had her rear drum brakes adjusted and the fuel efficiency dropped by some amount. At first we could not figure out. I lifted the rear on a jack and turn those wheels. Did feel a little drag although doesn't seem much. Went back to the workshop and had them adjusted so that there is no contact. Fuel efficiency returned to normal. After that, I had my old Corolla drums adjusted as well. Now, I am on the S10's case.
 
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EricV

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The quest for knowledge/data is never a waste of time. I look forward to reading your results.

I suspect, you will not find any significant gains in fuel mileage or pad wear. My reason for suspecting this is the very low parasitic drag is easily offset by the engine and I do not feel it's significant enough to show up in mileage gains w/o extremely sensitive testing methods.

As to pad wear, that's still very dependent on rider techniques. Yes, my Super Ten's wear rear pads faster than my other Yamaha motorcycles have. I changed my rear pads on my '12 S10 for the first time somewhere around 45-50k miles if I recall correctly Vs 90k miles on my previous '04 Yamaha FJR. The FJR did not have linked brakes, the S10 does. My riding style is mostly long distance and touring with few short trips. I don't brake unless I'm stopping for the most part. I don't ride in city traffic much. I ride The Pace. This style of riding is not hard on brake pads to begin with. My point is that for my riding style and experience with the Super Tenere, the increased rear pad wear seems much more likely to be a direct cause of the rear brake being applied more often with more force due to the linked brakes than I was doing w/o linked brakes. I do use both foot pedal and hand lever nearly always when braking, as that is my muscle memory from training to threshold brake and it's well ingrained.
 

EricV

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<snippage occured>
Another reason for my curiosity was on my wife's Prius C. She had her rear drum brakes adjusted and the fuel efficiency dropped by some amount. At first we could not figure out. I lifted the rear on a jack and turn those wheels. Did feel a little drag although doesn't seem much. Went back to the workshop and had them adjusted so that there is no contact. Fuel efficiency returned to normal. After that, I had my old Corolla drums adjusted as well. Now, I am on the S10's case.
While that's interesting, the surface area of two rear drum brakes on the cars is much greater than the surface area of the rear pads on the bike. As is the power to weight ratio of the cars Vs the bike. Depending on the trim, the Super Ten may have more bhp than the Corolla! And the car is 4.5 times heavier! That engine is working a lot harder to move the car around than the bike's engine is to move the bike around.

Auto drum brakes have much greater travel as well. Making it easy to adjust so they don't drag at all, yet still have full braking potential. It will be interesting to see if you can observe relative gains on the S10. Meaning for your riding style and use, you see a change in mpg from before the springs and after.
 
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