Re: Very hard starting today
Why would a vent line suck water up into the tank?
- Mark
Why would a vent line suck water up into the tank?
- Mark
As the fuel tank cools (like from washing) the vent line draws air into the tank. So if the end of the vent line was lying in a pool of water, it could get sucked into the tank. But I can't see the skid plate holding enough water to be an issue. Maybe cold water on a warm tank caused condensation? or maybe the gas cap gasket has a leak?markjenn said:Why would a vent line suck water up into the tank?
- Mark
If it is a sealed gas cap, then I guess given the right conditions (gas cap opened when the fuel is hot and under a little pressure, then closed for cool down) it is a possibility. At any rate, to eliminate this possibility, cut a vertical slit in the hose a few inches up from the end so if a vacuum is created, it cannot suck the water up.Kevhunts said:As the fuel tank cools (like from washing) the vent line draws air into the tank. So if the end of the vent line was lying in a pool of water, it could get sucked into the tank.
::008::scott123007 said:to eliminate this possibility, cut a vertical slit in the hose a few inches up from the end so if a vacuum is created, it cannot suck the water up.
Rasher said:Had it again, some of the theories I think are right, others maybe not so much....
It last had a long run, but since I had to mess about with some electrical accessories which involved turning it on and off a couple of times, I had the kill switch turned to off so it did not do the whole whirring thing, but I am now pretty sure that does nothing to help.
I have got away with this on other occasions, I have turned the bike on to check electric gadgets before, and a while back had turned on the ignition to go out, opened the garage and it started to p*** with rain, I was expecting a hard start next time out after these other scenarios but it fired up right away.
Today it did not fire, I went WOT for ages, felt like a minute or so, but this did not help, there was a very strong petrol smell so it was obviously flooded, I tried twice more (without killing the ignition in between) for 30 seconds or so each time and nothing but the odd fart, by now the motor was turning over slower so I shut down the ignition and dug out the charger, stuck the battery on charge and went to look up the FI fuse position. (left hand fuse block, 4th one down)
On my return I tried another WOT but again nothing, and by now I had little left in the battery.
I pulled the fuse and hit the starter, within a couple of seconds the bike started and stalled, I popped the fuse back in (with ignition still on) and it fired up right away.
What I have learned from this is:-
* If I need to mess with the ignition without starting the bike (for example fitting electrical stuff) it would be best to just pull the fuse before starting work.
* If WOT does not work pretty much right away just pull of the panel and pull the fuse, it only takes a few minutes, and is preferable to a flat battery, especially if your not at home, or really need to be going somewhere on the bike.
* WOT is not any sort of factory reset, it obviously sometimes helps, but the fuse pull sorted it instantly.
It is obvious the bike runs very rich "on choke", and once flooded it continues to chuck in so much extra fuel that it will never clear once badly flooded, it seems the fuse pull is a real good workaround and I now have no fear of a hard start scenario, although I now know a bit more about how to avoid it so maybe won't get it ever again, this is only number 2 in 10,000 miles, both after messing around with the ignition without starting the bike....
... You could argue this is a "fault" and I think it is, but cannot see Yamaha doing bugger all about it, regardless of how much we whinge about not accepting this if it was a car, but it is not a car (and be thankful we are not talking about a BMW GS)
Knowledge is power, don't keep turning your ignition on and off without going somewhere, and if it fails to start right away try WOT, of that fails pull the FI fuse, simple really.
Finally a few others who 'get it.' I've posted the same thing in this tread more than once, but it seems most posters prefer to ramble on as if in the grips of ADD. Spinning the motor with EFI fuse out clears the flooded condition in very short order, and there's even a 'notification' of when it's cleared by the engine firing off then dying.tpak said:This is EXACTLY the conclusion I came to and posted previously, glad to see someone else with more experience on this bike get to the same place.
If you re-read Rasher's post you will notice that he says he had the kill switch in the kill position. I would swear there is still a low level hum that I suspect is the pump even in the kill position. Next time I have the side panel off I will try and see if when the fuse is pulled the noise goes away.Tenerator12 said:Finally a few others who 'get it.' I've posted the same thing in this tread more than once, but it seems most posters prefer to ramble on as if in the grips of ADD. Spinning the motor with EFI fuse out clears the flooded condition in very short order, and there's even a 'notification' of when it's cleared by the engine firing off then dying.
Also, for the guy you quoted, no need to pull the fuse while testing out electical farkles... Just put the kill switch in kill position.
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I heard that low hum last night as I walked thru the diagnostic codes. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the throttle body assm. and not the fuel pump.tpak said:If you re-read Rasher's post you will notice that he says he had the kill switch in the kill position. I would swear there is still a low level hum that I suspect is the pump even in the kill position. Next time I have the side panel off I will try and see if when the fuse is pulled the noise goes away.