Front discs

[stutrump]

Hi folks. It's time to change my front discs. It seems that S10 discs are considerably more expensive than, for example R1 discs. (More aftermarket choices for R1 etc).
Do any of you know if there is a bike (R1?) that uses the same size discs as on a 2011 S10?
Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Dogdaze]

Look on fleabay, there are a few non-OEM sellers that make 'wavy discs' for the S10, I managed to pick up a set about two years ago (about £180 for the set) for my Gen1 that had slightly warped discs that were caused by the tyre fitter dropping them or my calipers deploying unevenly, anyhoo, upshot was I replaced the discs and put new seals in the front calipers........ then sold the bike.
I will try to see if I can look up where I got mine from. One question, are they just wearing thin or something else?

 

[EricV]

Look at the specs for the correct outside diameter. The bolt pattern is common to many Yamaha bikes. Then search eBay for the O.D..

You should find several matches. Then do some checking of various OEM resellers and see if you can save some coin by ordering the oem parts for another bike. Or search the net for XT1200 front brake disk/rotor and see what pops up.

O.D. is 310mm on the front disks. Rear is 282mm.

Looks like the R1/R6 07-14 & '11-13 FZ8 share the same front rotors. Same 5 bolt pattern. The R1 disks are directional, with a left and right part number, (1KB-2581T-00-00 / 1LB-2581U-00-00), but the Super Ten's are the same p/n on both sides, (23P-2581T-00-00).

Hope that helps.

 

[Sierra1]

Hi folks. It's time to change my front discs....

Out of curiosity, are they the original rotors? And, if so, how many miles did they last?

 

[EricV]

Here is a pair for $169 on eBay - LINK

Note that in the fitment guide they show the FZ8/R1 and Super Tenere.

 

[stutrump]

Thanks guys. You've all been really helpful. So, in answer to your questions, prepare to be shocked!!! I'm only the original discs and I've just done 100,000 miles. They've been fine (always passed MOT etc) but I just want to change them anyway now!! Thanks again, especially EricV for all those part numbers etc.

 

[Dogdaze]

Yeah, probably due for a change then........

 

[Sierra1]

Thanks for the info. That's the kind of mileage I would expect to get out of rotors. There have a few posts where the rotors were out of spec with many less miles. And yes, I know, "results may vary".

 

[stutrump]

Phew...I thought you were going to say I must be mad with original discs at that mileage!

 

[EricV]

Phew...I thought you were going to say I must be mad with original discs at that mileage!

Mine were still fine at 100k. I do ride longer distances though, so brake less than a commuting rider would. Did you measure your thickness? Just curious. ;D

 

[hobdayd]

Only change if you have reached the wear limit or are having issues. Otherwise, no need.

 

[RonH]

Do they do some sort of inspection on the rotors and deem them out of spec? In 47yrs of riding, I've never replaced a rotor. Do my own tire changes, so bent rotors are not an issue.

 

[EricV]

Do they do some sort of inspection on the rotors and deem them out of spec? In 47yrs of riding, I've never replaced a rotor. Do my own tire changes, so bent rotors are not an issue.

There is a minimum thickness spec. Still, if they are not damaged, pads squeezing on them is normal, so I tend not to stress about thickness. At some point, the heat/cool cycles will cause a too thin rotor to start cracking.

The FSM says minimum thickness for the fronts is: 4mm (0.16") For the rear it's: 4.5mm (0.18")

 

[Sierra1]

I've put a lot of miles on various bikes, but never enough to have had to change them out. No cracks, no burn spots, no warping....no problem. By the time the rotors in my cars started warping, they had been turned a time or two and WERE below minimum thickness. I just treat the symptoms.

 

[RonH]

I never even turn the rotors. 1997 F350, original rotors never been touched other than new pads. Truck still stops fine. I've never been one to repair stuff that still works fine

 

[hobdayd]

One major issue with excessive rotor wear is the pad backplate being able to "fall off" of the brake carrier abutment if you wear all the friction material from the steel pad backplate. This would not be good!

Excessive pad wear can happen quickly in a slurry (off road) environment but I think it will be unlikely you are below the wear limit or run your friction material down to the backplate.

 

[RCinNC]

I'm on the flip side of this coin; all three discs were below spec at 40,305 miles. All three were in the .15 range (the rear was at .1529, the fronts were at .1522 and .1530). The fronts have always used OEM pads, but I did have EBC HH pads on the rear for about 8700 miles before I measured the disc thickness. There was a pretty significant lip on the inner surface of the rear disc. None of the brake pads showed any unusual or uneven wear.

I swapped out the rear disc, since proportionally it had worn so much more than the fronts, and appeared to be wearing very quickly. I replaced the rear EBC pads with OEM ones when I made the change. The original front rotors are still on the bike; aside from being out of spec they are working fine, with no lipping, cracks, etc.

I may try a set of front discs from eBay; OEM are about $240 each at a dealer, and even from Rocky Mountain they're $185.00 each.

 

[hobdayd]

Have a look at my other posts relating to friction couples...pads and discs...I am firmly always in the OE camp

 

[RCinNC]

I'd heard others say in various posts that EBC pads were hard on discs, but I'd heard just as many guys say they had great success using them. I don't know what variables come into play that create those two different experiences. I won't say I will never use EBC pads again, but if I decide to, I'll probably opt for organic pads rather than the sintered metal (and I'd keep a close eye on the disc thickness to see if I was repeating my earlier experience with the HH pads).

I prefer OEM, mainly because I know it will always fit, but if I found a set of aftermarket discs that were cheaper than OEM, and they got good reviews from others who'd tried them, I'd give them a shot. I'm just really curious how one person can experience what appears to be excessive wear and another doesn't, when using aftermarket pads with OEM discs. Bearing in mind that I don't know what the disc thickness was when I put the EBC pads on, so I can't say with certainty that the wear accelerated once the EBC pads were on. My rear disc may have already been worn down considerably when it still had OEM pads on it.

 

[snakebitten]

I'm kind of a braking sensitive dude. They don't have to be great brakes, mind you, but however they performed when the bike or truck or tractor was new is what I expect.
Example: I have an old KLR that represents minimal braking expectations, and a 2006 KTM 950 Super Moto that was one finger Brembo braking beast.

Like RonH, I don't remember if I have ever needed a new rotor or even getting one turned, on a motorcycle. But unlike Ron, just last Friday I had an appointment with my truck dealer to get my front rotors turned on one of my trucks. Cost about $95.00. Other than the rotors needing turning, the 30,000 mile truck has perfect pads and clean fluid.

Like I mentioned above, I could sense the lightest bit of front brake rotor warp when braking softly and gently. Not so much when I braked harder. So it was not drastic.
But after they turned them, man could I immediately tell the difference. It was like the day I drove it off the lot! I suspect the wear that some would consider premature was due to about 15,000 of those miles with an RV and a load in the cargo bed? That definitely asks more from those front brakes.

The Tenere is notorious for the back brake pads wearing pretty quickly for those that do a lot of pack-mule\2-up riding. So I wouldn't be shocked if that rear rotor might need looking after for a high mileage Tenere with that burden.