Front discs

Sierra1

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snakebitten said:
But after they turned them, man could I immediately tell the difference. It was like the day I drove it off the lot! I suspect the wear that some would consider premature was due to about 15,000 of those miles with an RV and a load in the cargo bed? That definitely asks more from those front brakes.

Similar experience(s). I never used to turn the rotors, just pad replacement, and bleed. The first time I had them turned, I became a believer. They went from good to like brand new. And if those 15K miles were in Texas....in the summer....in the hill country....they never had a chance. FYI, Raybestos R-300 rotors, OE replacement, are fantastic!
 

WJBertrand

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I had to have the front rotors replaced due to them developing a pulsing feeling at low speeds. The new rotors were perfect but now, about 16,000 miles later I am again feeling the pulsation. It's not as bad as before but that may just be a factor of time and mileage. I doubt Yamaha will warranty them again so if they get as bad as before I'm considering going aftermarket. The OEM rotors seem to have an issue with flatness and I had to wait weeks for one of them last time.
 

stutrump

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Hi Folks. Thanks again for all your interesting replies. I should have added that I haven't measured the thickness on my discs purely because they have done over 100,000 miles so I figured they need doing. Also more importantly i feel a pulsing at the front brake lever. I've bled the brakes 3 times AND actuated the ABS pump so I figured the 'pulsing' must be because of knackered brake discs.
 

EricV

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Pulsing of the brakes is often just pad build up on the rotors. A mild de-glazing usually solves that issue. On older rotors, we have had a couple of people discover that the rotors were no longer 'floating' on the pins, but had become solid. Some cleaning and lubing of the pins that the rotor floats on helped dramatically. You can usually tell by grabbing the rotor and seeing if it wiggles a little.

Years ago when I was wrenching on Miatas I had a customer that had been to the dealer several times complaining about noisy brakes and pulsing feeling in the pedal. The dealer would de-glaze her rotors and pads and send her off, only to have her come back a couple weeks later complaining about the same problem. Someone finally sent her to me. She told me her tale and my first question to her was: Did you used to drive a large, heavy car with really good power brakes? Her shocked response was "Yes!".

I then explained to her that her old habit of braking very lightly from a long ways out worked well on the heavy car with very light touch, power assist brakes. However, on the light Miata with less power assist, she was effectively dragging the brakes and building up heat, causing the pads and rotors to glaze, which then resulted in the noise and pulsing. I explained to her that because of this she needed to get in the habit of waiting a bit longer, then pressing harder on the brakes when coming to a stop.

She was dubious, but agreed to make an effort to change her braking habits and see for herself what happened. 2 months later she called to thank me and to say that she no longer had any noise or pulsing issues with her brakes and she was now comfortable stopping the car with the technique I had taught her. She was thrilled that someone actually took the time to tell her why the problem had been happening and teach her how to avoid it in the future.
 

WJBertrand

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EricV said:
Pulsing of the brakes is often just pad build up on the rotors. A mild de-glazing usually solves that issue. On older rotors, we have had a couple of people discover that the rotors were no longer 'floating' on the pins, but had become solid. Some cleaning and lubing of the pins that the rotor floats on helped dramatically. You can usually tell by grabbing the rotor and seeing if it wiggles a little.

Years ago when I was wrenching on Miatas I had a customer that had been to the dealer several times complaining about noisy brakes and pulsing feeling in the pedal. The dealer would de-glaze her rotors and pads and send her off, only to have her come back a couple weeks later complaining about the same problem. Someone finally sent her to me. She told me her tale and my first question to her was: Did you used to drive a large, heavy car with really good power brakes? Her shocked response was "Yes!".

I then explained to her that her old habit of braking very lightly from a long ways out worked well on the heavy car with very light touch, power assist brakes. However, on the light Miata with less power assist, she was effectively dragging the brakes and building up heat, causing the pads and rotors to glaze, which then resulted in the noise and pulsing. I explained to her that because of this she needed to get in the habit of waiting a bit longer, then pressing harder on the brakes when coming to a stop.

She was dubious, but agreed to make an effort to change her braking habits and see for herself what happened. 2 months later she called to thank me and to say that she no longer had any noise or pulsing issues with her brakes and she was now comfortable stopping the car with the technique I had taught her. She was thrilled that someone actually took the time to tell her why the problem had been happening and teach her how to avoid it in the future.
In my case I don't think the above applies or my other bike would be similarly afflicted. That bike is a 2005 ST1300 with just over 150,000 miles on the original rotors. I'm always reminded how poor (comparatively speaking) the Super T's front brakes are when I take out the ST1300 for a spin.
 

Sierra1

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When I switched from the BMW power assist to the ST1300, I thought the brakes were nowhere near as good. Then I adjusted the front brake lever until the Honda felt the same as the Beemer. First thing I did to my Tenere was to adjust it's front brake lever to match the feel of the Honda. Because initially the Tenere's brakes felt real week. I'm a HUGE fan of adjustable brake/clutch levers. You can make all of your bikes "feel" the same. ::001::
 
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