ckbikelove
Member
Anyone know the size of the crush washer for the final drive? A link would be much appreciated, if you got one.
Final drive crush washer
- Thread starter ckbikelove
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Panman
Active Member
ckbikelove
Member
Thank you
nd4spdbh
Member
FYI if you have a harbor freight close
www.harborfreight.com
Gets you 10 crush washers for the rear gear (drain and fill are the same size), and 15 of the size you need for oil changes,
Copper Washer Assortment, 80 Piece
Amazing deals on this 80 Piece Copper Washer Assortment at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
Gets you 10 crush washers for the rear gear (drain and fill are the same size), and 15 of the size you need for oil changes,
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FYI if you have a harbor freight close
Copper Washer Assortment, 80 Piece
Amazing deals on this 80 Piece Copper Washer Assortment at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
Gets you 10 crush washers for the rear gear (drain and fill are the same size), and 15 of the size you need for oil changes,
I have these.... and have used these before..... Some of these manufactures are wanting $20 for a copper crush washer these days...... SERIOUSLY ?
RCinNC
Well-Known Member
The OEM part number is 214-11198-01. Yamaha refers to it as a "gasket". Rocky Mountain ATV has them for $2.24 each. Both the filler plug and the drain plug use the same gasket.
I don't know if it makes a difference or not, but the final drive crush washers aren't copper; they're hollow aluminum. I don't know why they're different than the oil drain bolt crush washers, but I'm just putting the info out there.
Just in case you have to sort through some crush washers that aren't identified by number size, the internal diameter of the OEM washer is 13.77 mm (.542") and the outer diameter is 19.05 mm (.75"). They are 2.25mm (.089") thick.
I bookmarked that Harbor Freight page- good info to have on hand.
I don't know if it makes a difference or not, but the final drive crush washers aren't copper; they're hollow aluminum. I don't know why they're different than the oil drain bolt crush washers, but I'm just putting the info out there.
Just in case you have to sort through some crush washers that aren't identified by number size, the internal diameter of the OEM washer is 13.77 mm (.542") and the outer diameter is 19.05 mm (.75"). They are 2.25mm (.089") thick.
I bookmarked that Harbor Freight page- good info to have on hand.
Last edited:
RCinNC
Well-Known Member
I totally forgot when I posted my last entry that I had already purchased a bag of hollow aluminum crush washers that I think will be a good replacement for the OEM final drive washers. They popped up in my Amazon order history while I was looking for something else, and then I went and found them in my toolbox.
Here's a link to these washers:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09DLJ6WX9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
These washers have an ID of 14.5 mm, an OD of 19.84 mm, and a thickness of 2.25 mm. They're slightly larger than OEM, but they look like they'll still make a good seal on the final drive filler and drain bolts. I haven't used them yet.
As far as the oil drain bolts, these are the copper ones I've been using in place of the OEM ones:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078RG5T8D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
I've used these ones multiple times, and they work fine.
Here's a link to these washers:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09DLJ6WX9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
These washers have an ID of 14.5 mm, an OD of 19.84 mm, and a thickness of 2.25 mm. They're slightly larger than OEM, but they look like they'll still make a good seal on the final drive filler and drain bolts. I haven't used them yet.
As far as the oil drain bolts, these are the copper ones I've been using in place of the OEM ones:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078RG5T8D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
I've used these ones multiple times, and they work fine.
Cycledude
Well-Known Member
I realize your supposed to change those washers at every oil change but I have never changed one on a Tenere.
I did have the oil drain washer on my Goldwing crack and start very slow leaking in cold weather at 160,000 miles, a new washer fixed it quick and easy. Back then that aluminum crush washer was less than a dollar from Honda I wonder what it costs today.
Just might pick up the mentioned 80 piece set from Harbor Freight next time I’m there.
I did have the oil drain washer on my Goldwing crack and start very slow leaking in cold weather at 160,000 miles, a new washer fixed it quick and easy. Back then that aluminum crush washer was less than a dollar from Honda I wonder what it costs today.
Just might pick up the mentioned 80 piece set from Harbor Freight next time I’m there.
RCinNC
Well-Known Member
I didn't change mine all the time either, until I found those ones online from Amazon. Ten bucks for a bag of 25 is a lot more maintenance friendly than five bucks each from Yamaha. From looking at a parts diagram, I believe the oil drain bolt gaskets are now $6.49 retail each at a parts department and $5.06 each if you buy them on line. The aluminum gaskets for the final drive are about $2.60 each. If I hadn't found those ones on Amazon, I doubt I'd be changing them during every single oil change.
SpudBob
Member
I got some of the Amazon Copper ones too.The assorment I got had the ones for the brake/clutch lines too as well as others. You can also take the solid type and use your finger and a piece of 120 grit sandpaper and easily sand down the "ridge" on them flat again and get 4-5 uses out of the same washer. Done this many times!
nd4spdbh
Member
Just call it cheap insurance. Zero issues on the final drive or two oil drain plugs in the last 3k miles since i started using the HF kit. FYI they have a 25% off coupon this weekend good through Monday. 5.25 for a kit. Hell i might just grab a second one just cus. haha
Speaking of which, HF has a good selection of those assortment kits. Good to have on hand for sure.
Skytower
Active Member
It is my understanding that the sulfur in gear oil attacks copper and brass parts. At least that's what the amsoil guide said when I was ordering lube for my Tacoma's transmission and Tcase.
It's the sulfur that protects against sliding gear tooth movement wear and makes gear oil stink
It's the sulfur that protects against sliding gear tooth movement wear and makes gear oil stink