Extended brake and clutch lines

[troll]

Some bikes come with incorrect length lines from Yamaha? Mine are perfect. Strange.

Ron, you are a hoot How do you express your creativity? Seriously ::017::

 

[tomatocity]

Who has something positive and constructive to help resolve the Subject?

There are more than one company that sells the stainless steel lines. One provides installation instructions. The extended lines will allow you to use the 2" pull back risers for riding comfort and have your mirrors mounted as wide as possible for better vision.

 

[Don in Lodi]

OK, I have the answer to this problem, the seat and the backrest. All available as factory parts, but will need tweeking a little. First go to your Victory dealer and order all the lines and handlebars for the highball.

Next go yo Yamaha and order the Majesty scooter seat. The rear seat can be stapled onto our tenere rear section. There is your passenger backrest too, just drill your rack and run a couple bolts up into the backrest portion of the seat to mount it. Now cut the hump off the front section and mount it on your front section of the tenere seat. This will take care of the dreaded tilt of the stock seat.

Easy fix for 3 or 4 problems with a few hours work. ) Sorry bored today.

Now see, that's creative! ::008::

 

[~TABASCO~]

We have those Victory parts as well... I wish I had a little extra time I would throw a set of those bars on my ST and have a little fun for a few minutes...

If anyone has any questions on the install your welcome to post your PM your questions and we will be more than happy to help you. If your not familiar with the installation of hydraulic lines its probably best that you have a motorcycle technician perform the install and bleed the lines for you.

 

[gharshman]

Good advice that I got today and sorely needed, because it had not occured to me and seemed blatantly obvious once it was told to me... ???

Make sure that you use a "flare nut wrench" on your "flare nuts" (junction of soft line and hard line). Do not use a regular open-end wrench, because the nuts may be on tight and you may round off the corners of the nut and dramatically increase the amount of work that you have to do to change the lines. :-[ The flare nut wrench is also called a tube wrench or semi-closed box wrench by some folks. I picked one up at Autozone, metric, for less than $10.

Good luck!
Glenn

 

[Z06]

Good advice that I got today and sorely needed, because it had not occured to me and seemed blatantly obvious once it was told to me... ???

Make sure that you use a "flare nut wrench" on your "flare nuts" (junction of soft line and hard line). Do not use a regular open-end wrench, because the nuts may be on tight and you may round off the corners of the nut and dramatically increase the amount of work that you have to do to change the lines. :-[ The flare nut wrench is also called a tube wrench or semi-closed box wrench by some folks. I picked one up at Autozone, metric, for less than $10.

Good luck!

And when purchasing a flare wrench the 6 point will work better than a 12 point. Be sure the wrench is square to the nut when turning. Know of two that were rounded off and required replacment of the hard line to correct.
Glenn

 

[gharshman]

Good point, Z06. I liked the 12-point wrench because of the swiveling ends, but for the truly stubborn nut, the more snug 6-sided wrench would be better.

Also, it looks like there are several threads on this, because Jaxon already posted a photo of the correct tools in a separate thread back in September!

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=2195.msg36700#msg36700

Glenn

 

[~TABASCO~]

Did you guys get it fixed up?

 

[gharshman]

Yes, Jaxon, I got the brake line on myself (mechanic chickened out because of flare nut tightness). I was able to jimmy the clutch line forward an inch, so I did not change that one. Got the handlebars where I want them and returned the mirrors to their full outside position. I'll save the clutch line as a spare for later. Thanks for the advice and for checking on me! I may ride out to Fort Worth to see you someday -- maybe when I'm ready for manifold and exhaust upgrades!

Thanks!
Glenn

 

[~TABASCO~]

You bet, stop by anytime !

 

[oldude]

I have the 2" Rox Risers & have the longer brake & clutch lines ordered. The more I look at the bike, the more I think the wiring harnesses are going to be too short. Has anyone had an issue with this? I haven"t seen any mention of it in the threads I've been reading on here. Maybe I'm looking at it wrong, but when the bars are full right, the right side wiring harness has basically no slack. The left may have a bit of slack when the bars are full left, but not much. Any thoughts etc. would be appreciated. Thanks,
Wayne K.

 

[Don in Lodi]

I have the 2" Rox on mine, haven't gotten around to doing the lines yet. The electrical has plenty of slack, full lock even.

 

[oldude]

I have the 2" Rox on mine, haven't gotten around to doing the lines yet. The electrical has plenty of slack, full lock even.

Thanks for the reply, Don. So I guess the stock brake & clutch lines are long enough on your bike, since you haven't had to change them? What about the throttle cables? Did you have to turn them to the bottom of the bars as some have done? Mine look like I may have to do that also. Am I correct in assuming the lines & electrical varies somewhat from bike to bike? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get a handle on what all I'm going to need to do. Thanks,
wk

 

[Don in Lodi]

Thanks for the reply, Don. So I guess the stock brake & clutch lines are long enough on your bike, since you haven't had to change them? What about the throttle cables? Did you have to turn them to the bottom of the bars as some have done? Mine look like I may have to do that also. Am I correct in assuming the lines & electrical varies somewhat from bike to bike? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get a handle on what all I'm going to need to do. Thanks,
wk

Well, there's a fine line between should and need. I should to do the the lines, it's just gonna have to wait till the bike is tore down a bit, maybe at the 20-something thousand check up the end of this year. I loosened and slid the control perches in-board as far as I could against the tension of the hand guards, not much really, and my lines aren't string tight full lock, but they're not loose either, snug works. There's a point down there where the hard lines are bolted to the frame where they can be unbolted and ease the tension some as well. I work around these hydraulic lines daily, I see the abuse they take for hundreds of thousands of miles, they ain't fragile. I am not hurting them at all. I spend virtually no time at full lock.
My cables are running right past the rear in board corner of the brake rez. I bent the loom that they run through so they're not under tension, I should just remove the loom, the loom was meant to manage them when they were 'two inches longer'.
I seriously doubt there are any variations in the wire looms or hoses, that stuff is very highly controlled. It's just the lengths folks are willing to go and what they'll tolerate. The electrical is a total non-issue, cables lay in nice and aren't across the instruments visually any more, hoses are snug at full lock, and those are in the 'pipe line'. Comfort +1, I can stand +1, a nice place to mount a ball +1, a win win for me.
The "What If's" that run through folks minds sometimes, it's a wonder they get on the road at all. ::021::

 

[oldude]

Ok Don, thanks for the details. I don't spend a lot of time around those hydraulic lines, so just learning what the limits are. Looks like my next day off I'll loosen things up, get the risers in there & see where I'm at...no worries, one way or another I'll be out on the road!... (^.~)...

 

[52edub]

Changing out the lines is easy with Jaxon's kit. I haven't done my clutch side as it wasn't as tight as the brake side which was too tight to ride on. I did place the right electrical bundle to the inside of the triple tree for more slack. I was also having issues with the throttle cables catching on the brake resevoir. I ended up flipping it upside down. You will have to drill a small hole in the handlebar to keep the throttle from rotating. A fairly easy project. I picked up some flare nut wrenches at Harbor Freight for 9 bucks I think.

 

[junglepilot]

I too have changed the brake and clutch lines (thanks Jaxon). Was very straight forward with the right tools (B-nut wrenches). I added the Rox 2" riser. I re-positioned the wires a bit to give them more slack. I am very pleased with the upgrade bringing the bars up and back for a better fit for me. The hydraulic lines were really tight, but with the right tools it wasn't a problem.

 

[jajpko]

Thanks for the reply, Don. So I guess the stock brake & clutch lines are long enough on your bike, since you haven't had to change them? What about the throttle cables? Did you have to turn them to the bottom of the bars as some have done? Mine look like I may have to do that also. Am I correct in assuming the lines & electrical varies somewhat from bike to bike? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get a handle on what all I'm going to need to do. Thanks,
wk

What varies from bike to bike, is the placement of the risers and handlebar. If you have the risers straight up with no pullback that will be a lot different than having them pulled back as much as they can.
On the bars, if you roll them down toward the tank or up toward the shield, each way will be different on how much cable and wires you will need.

 

[oldude]

Yea I get that, what I'm saying is I haven't changed anything yet, haven't added the risers & haven't moved the bars from stock, so with no slack in the wires now, moving them up & back would seem to me to make them tighter yet. I'll see what happens, maybe I can release a cable tie down lower to get some slack?

 

[tomatocity]

dub, thanks for the photo.