Unfortunately they only wrote on the invoice that valves were loose, no specs written about adjustment details...very professional as you can see...
Im going back in time, I just wrote below before I had a minute to watch your video. SORRY, im doing five things at once......
Check your CCT *ASAP* After watching this I have not seen this before but I watched it several times. If this was at my shop I would pull the CCT out, take it apart, and inspect it FIRST.... After those RPM drops its sounds like you have CC slapping and chatter.... I would suggest not riding it until this is inspected. The stock CCT is actuated my oil / oil pressure. Obviously hot and cold oil are a bit different and might have an effect on a defective CCT. Im sure I have several stock units if you want to throw one in. If you want to kick this off your (what if) list, throw a manual CCT in there and mark that off your list.
*unlikely, dont know if this might even be possible but I wonder if the CCT piston has hung up on the CCT out side upper clip spring? For folks that have messed with the stock unit will know what Im talking about.
(These are only ideas and suggestions I can learn and see over the internet)
Really sorry to see that....... (My guess) Needs to be meticulously re checked & possible re adjusted. In my past experience I have seen back firing, rough idle, and other not-good stuff... all of these item were because of the valves being out (way out) and fixed by bringing them all back into exact spec.
Also for future reference. Demand how ever you like that you get all the numbers "for your records" of all the valve specs before they adjust them. Ive had other folks tell me they have asked for these numbers while calling beforehand in scheduling the bike maintenance, the dealer / shop refused to provide this info. They never made the appointment and went to another place. (makes me wonder if they even do the work)? Im also writing this for others to read and they can use the info themselves. I have found over ten years & this bike, that if the valve is on the edge of tight or loose and your already in there fixing other valves, go ahead and bring the (on the edge) valves back into a middle value. Don't leave them hanging on the edge of tight or loose. It makes a difference for sure. I recently checked the valves on my bike. I think I had 3-4 that were actually out of spec. The rest were all all over....... I ended up pulling all 8 and adjusting all 8, and now all are dead nuts (exactly) in the middle tolerance. The engine is super smooth after that job.
IMOP- all these modern engines do NOT tolerate "its close enough".. This is not a big Chevy from the 50-60's, I know that im OCD about engine stuff but your going to get out what you put in. And I have suggested and help guide folks for years about "interviewing" shops before going. I could probably write a book about stories Ive been apart of or have listen to over all these years. I totally understand there are many folks they only have one place within 20 hours of there home. And that one mechanic is garbage. For those folks it might be better to grab just a few tools and contact someone like myself. I will walk you though it so you know the job is done correctly. And save you time / money / frustration.
) to check it hopefully they will resolve it.
