Cure for notchy downshifts?
- Thread starter twinrider
- Start date
Mobil 1 4T
Thought I would update this thread as I finally found the solution to the notchy, sticky, hugely annoying 3-2-1 downshift problem.
::015::
After trying solutions like lubing the shift pivot, the linkage and even changing my brand of oil I finally had a veteran mechanic take a close up at my bike. Turned out the problem was a worn clutch. I hadn't thought the clutch would be the issue as I hadn't really noticed slipping under power and the bike was relatively young when the issue started, probably 20,XXX miles and I am not hard on clutches. But the mechanic did some checks, said a new clutch would cure the issue and I gave him the go-ahead to replace it. Also used the opportunity to change the basket to the new type since the labor cost was the same.
Pleased as punch with the results. Now the bike shifts very precisely and smoothly in all gears, far better than it did when I bought it used with 4000 km on it. Maybe the PO was hard on the clutch....
The basket was also a nice improvement. The bike is much smoother at low speeds and the mirrors are now clear at highway cruising speeds.
Anyhow, I'm a very happy camper as the notchy gear box was a huge annoyance and I was getting ready to sell the bike because of it.
::018::
::015::
After trying solutions like lubing the shift pivot, the linkage and even changing my brand of oil I finally had a veteran mechanic take a close up at my bike. Turned out the problem was a worn clutch. I hadn't thought the clutch would be the issue as I hadn't really noticed slipping under power and the bike was relatively young when the issue started, probably 20,XXX miles and I am not hard on clutches. But the mechanic did some checks, said a new clutch would cure the issue and I gave him the go-ahead to replace it. Also used the opportunity to change the basket to the new type since the labor cost was the same.
Pleased as punch with the results. Now the bike shifts very precisely and smoothly in all gears, far better than it did when I bought it used with 4000 km on it. Maybe the PO was hard on the clutch....
The basket was also a nice improvement. The bike is much smoother at low speeds and the mirrors are now clear at highway cruising speeds.
Anyhow, I'm a very happy camper as the notchy gear box was a huge annoyance and I was getting ready to sell the bike because of it.
::018::
Mark R.
Member
Good info. Mine also sucks downshifting in traffic, but I only have 12,000 miles and I am also easy on the clutch. But I will file this in the memory bank for future reference.
I had a grease zerk and folding tip added by Jaxon, but I found that pulling the shifter and really cleaning it out and slapping a lot of grease on the bolt as well as the edges with the wavy washers works a little better than just pumping in grease. I did this the other day and solved the problem, and when I replaced the clutch basket I put in a new shift return spring, so I am probably good for a while.
Mark R
Albuquerque, NM.
I had a grease zerk and folding tip added by Jaxon, but I found that pulling the shifter and really cleaning it out and slapping a lot of grease on the bolt as well as the edges with the wavy washers works a little better than just pumping in grease. I did this the other day and solved the problem, and when I replaced the clutch basket I put in a new shift return spring, so I am probably good for a while.
Mark R
Albuquerque, NM.
TheHelios
Taco Enthusiast
I've had a bottle of that stuff sitting in my closet since I no longer own a bike with a chain. Glad to know it can be useful again!FredBGG said:
Tyke
New Member
I would avoid using WD40 in preference to a Lythium soap based grease which has better lubrication properties and offers more protection from the elements ::008::frez said:
tomatocity
Active Member
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Tyke said:
But... WD-40 will get you down the road until you can service the shifter properly.
Tyke
New Member
Agreed, ::008:: WD40 is however a solvent base and will dissolve other lubricantstomatocity said:
I use WD40 for freeing off rusted/stuck attachments
tomatocity
Active Member
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Archer and I rode through Northern California for two days. At the end of day two were were descending a forest route road and Archer's shifter started jamming. Were a few miles from our destination and off the mountain so we continued. At the motel we serviced the shifter. He mentioned he had the same problem on a previous trip in Zion NP and used WD-40 for a temporary fix. Well he had not serviced the shifter since then and the dirty roads (many fires) of NorCal took its toll. We did not have grease and neither did the three gas stations in Weed CA so we used dielectric grease for another temporary repair. The next day he headed for Oregon for three days and a very long day home through smoky air.
My point of this post is how I was surprised how well the WD-40 cleaned the shifter. I would not bet on WD-40 holding up and would complete the service as soon as reasonable.
15 minutes, little bit of grease, 1 rag, 1 tool = many miles of smooth shifting.
My point of this post is how I was surprised how well the WD-40 cleaned the shifter. I would not bet on WD-40 holding up and would complete the service as soon as reasonable.
15 minutes, little bit of grease, 1 rag, 1 tool = many miles of smooth shifting.
Bryce
Ya, Whatever!
Had a few times that getting into 1st was one do easy. Pulled mine apart at about 4200miles today and at best, they put a light coating of grease on the bolt. Today I slopped it up good with grease, reassembled and wiped off the excess. Seems a lot better now.
SLKid
New Member
JUST Started experienced this on my 2012 Super Tenere
11,000miles
Just changed the oil from (whatever the PO had in there. Purple. Motul maybe?) to Yamalube 10w40 Full Syn
Then started getting this problem
I was thinking that it was my oil weight, as it was the only thing I had changed (and 2nd gear feels WAY better with the new oil, the lady agrees)
But as I am reading this post, this could be the issue. I've replaced many of these before, and I usually do friction plates at the same time because they are so dang cheap.
I think I will start in this order, and if it doesnt work, move to the next step
1) Clean the Shaft Linkage and lube.
2) Change the Oil for Piece of Mind to another Full Syn 10w30? 10w40? 10w50? Reccomendations?
3) Replace the springs and friction plates and cover gasket
Thoughts?
11,000miles
Just changed the oil from (whatever the PO had in there. Purple. Motul maybe?) to Yamalube 10w40 Full Syn
Then started getting this problem
I was thinking that it was my oil weight, as it was the only thing I had changed (and 2nd gear feels WAY better with the new oil, the lady agrees)
But as I am reading this post, this could be the issue. I've replaced many of these before, and I usually do friction plates at the same time because they are so dang cheap.
I think I will start in this order, and if it doesnt work, move to the next step
1) Clean the Shaft Linkage and lube.
2) Change the Oil for Piece of Mind to another Full Syn 10w30? 10w40? 10w50? Reccomendations?
3) Replace the springs and friction plates and cover gasket
Thoughts?
You'll be surprised at how night & day different it is to just lube the shifter.
About the only time the clutch needs replacement is if it has been beat to death.
About the only time the clutch needs replacement is if it has been beat to death.
SLKid
New Member
Thats where I'll start certainly
The PO had the onsets of Parkinson's disease so there is a good chance he shifted multiple times without clutching.
Its why the bike sat for 3 years before he sold.
I'm looking up those Torsion Springs by part number (compiling a parts and to do list for quick reference) and I cant seem to locate where they are on the schematics. I see the springs in the clutch basket that appear internal, but do not have a part number. Am I missing where these springs are located?
In search of a good service manual as well.
The PO had the onsets of Parkinson's disease so there is a good chance he shifted multiple times without clutching.
Its why the bike sat for 3 years before he sold.
I'm looking up those Torsion Springs by part number (compiling a parts and to do list for quick reference) and I cant seem to locate where they are on the schematics. I see the springs in the clutch basket that appear internal, but do not have a part number. Am I missing where these springs are located?
In search of a good service manual as well.
SLKid
New Member
Interesting!
That Torsion Spring is located on the Shift Shaft
A lot of the old Yamahas that I've replaced the Friction and Clutch plates had tension springs on the clutch basket themselves. These would cause the issue that I am having as well. I kept looking at the clutch basket on the schematic for these springs, and not on the shift shaft. Cheap part.
I need a new air filter and plugs anyway. Might as well just order it all at once.
Clutch Cover Gasket
Torsion Spring(s)
Air Filter
Spark Plugs
That Torsion Spring is located on the Shift Shaft
A lot of the old Yamahas that I've replaced the Friction and Clutch plates had tension springs on the clutch basket themselves. These would cause the issue that I am having as well. I kept looking at the clutch basket on the schematic for these springs, and not on the shift shaft. Cheap part.
I need a new air filter and plugs anyway. Might as well just order it all at once.
Clutch Cover Gasket
Torsion Spring(s)
Air Filter
Spark Plugs
SLKid
New Member
Just an Update
Lubing the shifter worked
Lubing the shifter worked