Couple of clutch questions

[BaileyRam]

1. When the temperature is cold, the clutch engages much closer to the handlebar. After it warms up a bit it's back to normal. I've never experienced this on other motorcycles before. Have others experienced this?
2. I would love if the clutch were a little easier to pull, especially in traffic. Is there anything that can be done to achieve this?

It's a 2016, just over 20k miles. I bought used about 3 months ago and not 100% sure of maintenance history. Everything I've checked has seemed well maintained though. In short, I don't know when the fluid was last changed...

 

[TenereGUY]

My 1st thought was... change your fluid. Then I read your last sentence... just change it and report back. My 2017 is the lightest clutch I have ever had on a bike.

 

[~TABASCO~]

Flush the fluid.

Then maybe:

replace 24-26-26 wear parts on the Skitch schematics.

if you want a softer pull: off De road in Germany has an aftermarket slave cylinder. Replace that.

and then finally a Barnett pressure plate. You have about 3-4 sets of springs to choose from and all of those are better than stock. (Clamping force).

 

[BaileyRam]

Thanks for the replies. I figured the suggestion would be to change the fluid. Definitely something I can do.

I did a search for the skitch schematics, but didn't turn anything up. Are those different then the schematics that I might find on yamaha parts house?

In short, what are those wear parts?

 

[~TABASCO~]

Thanks for the replies. I figured the suggestion would be to change the fluid. Definitely something I can do.

I did a search for the skitch schematics, but didn't turn anything up. Are those different then the schematics that I might find on yamaha parts house?

In short, what are those wear parts?

Any parts house will show these three little parts. Yes, the shaft wears. They are inexpensive. I go over board, but change those out about every 16-20K. Cheap & easy.

 

[BaileyRam]

Any parts house will show these three little parts. Yes, the shaft wears. They are inexpensive. I go over board, but change those out about every 16-20K. Cheap & easy.

Awesome. Thank you. I've looked at some schematics but am still not sure what parts you're referring to.

Do you have a link or pic or part number or part name?

Thanks!

 

[~TABASCO~]

Awesome. Thank you. I've looked at some schematics but am still not sure what parts you're referring to.

Do you have a link or pic or part number or part name?




24-25-26...... The ball will wear a big divot in #25..... this wear although small, is big in the precision of the clutch working (the best it can) .

Thanks!

 

[~TABASCO~]

24-25-26...... The ball will wear a big divot in #25..... this wear although small, is big in the precision of the clutch working (the best it can) .

 

[BaileyRam]

24-25-26...... The ball will wear a big divot in #25..... this wear although small, is big in the precision of the clutch working (the best it can) .


View attachment 105861

Awesome. That's super helpful. Thanks!

 

[holligl]

Does it make any creaking sound when you pull the lever? I had to recently clean and lube the little brass bush that pushes the rod in the master cylinder. Quiet and smooth now. I use a shortened lever with a 2 or 3 finger pull.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

 

[BaileyRam]

Does it make any creaking sound when you pull the lever? I had to recently clean and lube the little brass bush that pushes the rod in the master cylinder. Quiet and smooth now. I use a shortened lever with a 2 or 3 finger pull.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

I'll have to check. This is a helpful tip. Thanks!

 

[nd4spdbh]

24-25-26...... The ball will wear a big divot in #25..... this wear although small, is big in the precision of the clutch working (the best it can) .


View attachment 105861

Whats the process like getting to those parts mentioned (24-26 in that schematic)?

 

[~TABASCO~]

Whats the process like getting to those parts mentioned (24-26 in that schematic)?

Pull the clutch cover off.............. Easy

Pull the six bolts out that hold the clutch spring................ Easy

You could probably install the new parts in probably 15-20 min...

(you want to use a torque wrench on the clutch spring, for sure)........ probably best to also use it on the out side cover.................

 

[nd4spdbh]

Oh sweet. I guess ill grab those parts at some point for replacement. Always felt like there was lots of "take up" before the clutch lever actually does work and wear where you describe would make as to that extra takeup (25k on the bike).

 

[nd4spdbh]

Pull the clutch cover off.............. Easy

Pull the six bolts out that hold the clutch spring................ Easy

You could probably install the new parts in probably 15-20 min...

(you want to use a torque wrench on the clutch spring, for sure)........ probably best to also use it on the out side cover.................

Have you ever replaced the main clutch rod (the other side of the ball?) or does that not wear as bad as part #25

 

[~TABASCO~]

Have you ever replaced the main clutch rod (the other side of the ball?) or does that not wear as bad as part #25

Yes I have. It wears about 1/2 - 3/4 the speed. The Rod end must have a very hard surface. Much harder than the ‘push rod on the outside’

 

[Boris]

And there’s no need to drain the oil.

 

[~TABASCO~]

And there’s no need to drain the oil.

No-

 

[nd4spdbh]

Yes I have. It wears about 1/2 - 3/4 the speed. The Rod end must have a very hard surface. Much harder than the ‘push rod on the outside’

I assume the rod just slides out with the clutch cover off as one more step beyond the replacement of #24-26

And there’s no need to drain the oil.

just lean her over on the side stand id imagine.

 

[BaileyRam]

Super helpful tips in here!