Cooked Headlamp Harness

tomatocity

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Dallara said:
Oh, I quite understand why you want new bulbs, TC. I have 55-watt Hella bulbs in mine right now, and I might try those 55-watt PIAA's you're using if these Hella's start to yellow (as my stock ones did, just like yours).

No, I was simply trying to point out to others one thing you discovered already - that properly aiming the headlamps does quite a bit toward making them much more usable and effective. I'm legally blind in my left eye (keratoconus has long since rendered the cornea all but useless) and have hell at twilight, more so than even when it gets fully dark. Still, I need all the help I can get, which is why I was given the PIAA 530 driving lamps I still haven't installed!!! ::025::

Thanks for the pointer to the PIAA H7 headlamp bulbs! ::008::

Dallara
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I just wanted to address the "yellowing" issue. Makes night driving more difficult.

Ouch on your left eye. Remind me to ride to your right ::025:: I shouldn't joke since I grew up with a father that lost his left eye during WWII and understand what his life's disabilities.

If the PIAA 530 is the same as the OEM lights you should like them. I was at FF911 house when he installed his and they installed easily, looked good, and I hear the lighting is very good. I was impressed how easily they installed.
 

Dallara

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tomatocity said:
Ouch on your left eye. Remind me to ride to your right ::025:: I shouldn't joke since I grew up with a father that lost his left eye during WWII and understand what his life's disabilities.

No real worries about the eye. First found out I had an eye problem back in 1985 when I was getting a required eye exam to go to a race car driver's school. Doc told me I was blind in my left eye, and apparently had been for a long time. At first he wasn't going to sign off on my exam, but I promised him I would go to an eye doctor just as soon as I got back...

Of course, I didn't... Until 1990.

At first they simply thought it was just real bad astigmatism in that eye, put me in glasses, and off we went. It wasn't until about a year after that when I went to try and get contacts that they "mapped" my cornea and figured out I had keratoconus in that eye, bad. And again, they decided that I had had it for a long, long time. I can sense light and some shape with it if there is enough light, but nothing too usable. From what they told me one's brain simply shuts down any information from that eye it can't use. Been to specialists, etc. and they all say apparently my brain uses periphery cues and some light info from it, but discards the rest, and I live off my right eye.

Weirdest part of the whole thing is that I had raced with it that way for years. I asked them about the depth perception issue - i.e . that people with one eye often have depth perception problems. They said since I had been dealing with so long, and the progression had been so gradual, that my brain had learned to use different "cues" for depth perception. I don't quite understand it when they try to explain, but apparently the brain is a pretty resilient piece of hardware, and writes itself new software if necessary.

All I know is it doesn't really bother me... that is unless I close my right eye (the good one)!!! :D

BTW, the only cure for keratoconus is a cornea transplant, but I haven't gone down that road just yet.

OK, enough off-topic thread tangent... Sorry, folks! Back to your regularly scheduled programming!!! ::025::

Dallara



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twinrider

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After getting just OK results from installing Philips Powervision H7 bulbs, imo instead of spending $72 on Piaa bulbs it's worth it to kick in another $50 and get HID. I bought the Morimoto Elite H7 kit for $125 with a 25% discount code I found on the web and plan to get them installed this Thursday. This weekend will try to take some night shots and post up the results.
 

twinrider

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tomatocity said:
If the PIAA 530 is the same as the OEM lights you should like them. I was at FF911 house when he installed his and they installed easily, looked good, and I hear the lighting is very good. I was impressed how easily they installed.
The Piaa 530LPs put out good light but what I really like is how they make the bike stand out. Pedestrians and other drivers really notice them.
 

tomatocity

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twinrider said:
After getting just OK results from installing Philips Powervision H7 bulbs, imo instead of spending $72 on Piaa bulbs it's worth it to kick in another $50 and get HID. I bought the Morimoto Elite H7 kit for $125 with a 25% discount code I found on the web and plan to get them installed this Thursday. This weekend will try to take some night shots and post up the results.
What is the color (Kelvins) of the HID bulbs?
 

tomatocity

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NickBrewer3

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twinrider said:
After getting just OK results from installing Philips Powervision H7 bulbs, imo instead of spending $72 on Piaa bulbs it's worth it to kick in another $50 and get HID. I bought the Morimoto Elite H7 kit for $125 with a 25% discount code I found on the web and plan to get them installed this Thursday. This weekend will try to take some night shots and post up the results.
Is the Morimoto Elite H7 kit a High/Low kit or just Low Beams?
 

Dallara

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NickBrewer3 said:
Is the Morimoto Elite H7 kit a High/Low kit or just Low Beams?

H7 bulbs are single filament bulbs. The Super Tenere uses H7 bulbs, not a dual-filament bulb like an H4 that has separate filaments for high- and low-beams.

The Super Tenere uses "shuttered" style projector headlamps, in that there is a "shutter" actuated by a solenoid that swings down and "cuts" the light beam off for low-beam "dipped" operation. When you flick your handlebar switch to change to high-beam the solenoid raises the "shutter" and you get full light output for high-beam operation.

There is no need for a "High/Low kit" for the Super Tenere when installing an HID set-up. The bike takes care of "High/Low" operation, not the bulb. All you need is an HID "kit" that uses a H7 replacement capsule.

Just FYI...

Dallara



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tomatocity

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Allan, thanks for the explanation. You made it easy to understand. Now I understand the reason for two headlights (other than looks).
 

10 ER AY

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I know theres a thread or post about this but I can't find it. If someone could point me in the right direction or just fill me in, I'd appreciate it.

I've been trying to turn the little gears under the headlight to raise the lights but they dont appear to be moving. Which way am I suppose to be turning them? How many turns of the screwdriver does it take to make a difference?
 

twinrider

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I had the Moritmoto Elite kit installed at the YSP shop yesterday. The shop's head mechanic did the install and interestingly he chose not to use the Morimoto harness, saying that the OEM harness would work better given the headlights wiring and the electronic shutter system. Tested my new lights last night, holy sh*t the high beams turn night into day! Think I will be moving my Piaa 1100 led driving lights to my 250 DP as they are now going to be a waste on the S10.... ::008::

Btw, opted for the premium XB35 bulbs that put out better light and have quality metal bases just like the halogens. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=40568
 

ADVFireFighter

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twinrider said:
I had the Moritmoto Elite kit installed at the YSP shop yesterday. The shop's head mechanic did the install and interestingly he chose not to use the Morimoto harness, saying that the OEM harness would work better given the headlights wiring and the electronic shutter system. Tested my new lights last night, holy sh*t the high beams turn night into day! Think I will be moving my Piaa 1100 led driving lights to my 250 DP as they are now going to be a waste on the S10.... ::008::

Btw, opted for the premium XB35 bulbs that put out better light and have quality metal bases just like the halogens. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=40568

EXACTLY what I did too...
Told you there were AMAZING :)
Sorry didnt' get pics... Busy fire season in Cali...
 

twinrider

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ADVFireFighter said:
EXACTLY what I did too...
Told you there were AMAZING :)
Sorry didnt' get pics... Busy fire season in Cali...
Yeah, your review prompted me to buy them and you were absolutely right. Did opt for the XB35 bulbs at $20 more, nice metal base and apparently a bit brighter. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=40568

Definitely recommend people buy the Morimoto Elite kit before spending hundreds on driving lights. Awesome product and fantastic customer service.


And thanks for putting your life on the line... ::008::
 

Dallara

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Whorepedo said:
I know theres a thread or post about this but I can't find it. If someone could point me in the right direction or just fill me in, I'd appreciate it.

I've been trying to turn the little gears under the headlight to raise the lights but they dont appear to be moving. Which way am I suppose to be turning them? How many turns of the screwdriver does it take to make a difference?

Do you have a factory service manual, Whorepedo?

If not, no big deal really, but the reason I mentioned it is that it shows an alternate way to adjust the up or down (vertical) headlamp aiming. The "wheel" with the "teeth" on it is actually kind of cupped washer with a toothed edge (the "teeth" you trying to use with your screwdriver), and like most washers it's held on with a bolt. The bolt head is 8mm, and you can more easily (IMHO, anyway) adjust the headlamps by using a 1/4" drive ratchet and the appropriate sized 8mm socket and short extension or simply an 8mm deep socket. The first time you try to do it you will swear it's impossible, but it is. You turn the bars the appropriate way for whichever adjuster and lamp you are working on, and if you have enough light and get at the right angle you can see the bolt head at the bottom inside (between the headlamps) corner of each lamp housing.

OK, before going any further note that whenever I am talking about directions I am doing so from behind the headlamp housing, or in other words, from the position of sitting on the motorcycle.

If you turn the adjustment bolts for either of the headlamps *COUNTERCLOCKWISE* (to the left) you will *RAISE* the point of aim of the that headlamp beam.

If you turn the adjustment bolts for either of the headlamps *CLOCKWISE* (to the right) you will *LOWER* the point of aim of the that headlamp beam.

Note this direction info even if you still use the "screwdriver from underneath" method of adjusting the lamps.

Just for the record, there are also adjustment bolts for aiming each headlamp to the left or right (horizontally). These are located up above the headlamp bulb replacement caps, just outside of the centerline of each headlamp housing bucket. Turning them *COUNTERCLOCKWISE* (to the left) moves the aim point of the appropriate lamp to the *RIGHT*, while turning it *CLOCKWISE* (to the right) moves that lamp's point of aim to the *LEFT*.

There is nothing in the manual about how many turns nets how much adjustment, nor can I remember, other than it really doesn't take much to affect a change. Just pick a nice flat wall, your garage door, etc. at dusk or later and play with it, then go ride it and see where you're at, and then repeat until you get the result you want. BTW, once I've done that I mark that wall (for me it's my garage door) where the low-beam cut-off is when the bike is on the centerstand so I can quickly and easily re-aim the lamps if I make any suspension adjustments, etc.

Hope this helps!

Dallara



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twinrider

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Yup, the tech who did my install used a socket wrench on the bottom bolts to adjust the beam height.
 
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