Clutch Slipping a little

holligl

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2014 with 112k miles. Riding home tonight I noticed some slippage at full throttle at 70-75 mph. Very subtle with the engine out pacing speed. I have been satisfied with the OEM clutch so not looking at investing in Bartlet upgrades. The OEM kit is about $150 at RMATV.

Looking at the manual it looks pretty easy to remove spring and plates for inspection before ordering a kit. Any test or inspection suggestions?

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Bigguy136

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Same happened to my 2014. 80,000 miles. I pulled apart and clutch fiber plates were under service manual thickness spec as expected.
I soak fiber plates in engine oil overnight before installing.
When disassembling, watch the direction of the steel plates are in from the factory and do the same on install. The steel plates are stamped out and there is a rounded edge and sharp edge. You will find all sharp edges go out/ towards you.
If you install steel plates with sharp edge inward, under hard acceleration when engaging the clutch, the sharp edges can catch slightly and not let clutch engage as smooth.
 

holligl

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Page 5-52 Remark "Refer to Removing the clutch release cylinder".
I assume that is extraneous to simple plate swap.

Also, they talk about marking the first friction plate for re-installation. I assume with new plates it doesn't matter beyond getting them in the correct order?
 

Jlq1969

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2014 with 112k miles. Riding home tonight I noticed some slippage at full throttle at 70-75 mph. Very subtle with the engine out pacing speed. I have been satisfied with the OEM clutch so not looking at investing in Bartlet upgrades. The OEM kit is about $150 at RMATV.

Looking at the manual it looks pretty easy to remove spring and plates for inspection before ordering a kit. Any test or inspection suggestions?

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The clutch lever, is the OEM?
 

gv550

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Listowel, Ontario, Canada
I replaced my clutch plates and spring a few years ago, due to drag, not slipping. Although the kit is labeled spring and plate kit, the spring was not included in the kit, so I bought it separately.
 

holligl

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The clutch lever, is the OEM?
Except for the 1 1/2" I removed to shorten it. Good for 2 finger pull.

The mounting end is original. Ordered the kit and gasket. Will inspect the spring per the manual.

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Jlq1969

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Except for the 1 1/2" I removed to shorten it. Good for 2 finger pull.

The mounting end is original. Ordered the kit and gasket. Will inspect the spring per the manual.

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I asked because I remember reading about aftermarket levers…that didn't allow the master cylinder to fully return.
 

holligl

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Help needed. Put it back together with the new kit and it is slipping bad. Went back over the install and realized the friction plate 3 was stuck in the box and the old one was left in. Back apart now and I see one of the clutch plates has a different part number. I can not measure any difference in the old parts that came out. How can you tell one from the other? I did not distinguish when I did the first install.

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holligl

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Never mind. The 385 is the circlip part number. The clutch plates are all the same.

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~TABASCO~

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Never mind. The 385 is the circlip part number. The clutch plates are all the same.

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I would suggest replacing the 1-2 plates aboard of the internal spring "anti chatter".... check the basket for wear as well. Make sure you soak all the new plates before installing so you dont burn up the new ones...... and make sure all the plates are aimed "out"........ Im very picky, I like to also aim the little circles and triangles in the same clocked position as they came out.... Ive learned over the years that Japan has these clutches dialed in to a T it all adds up to great wear and performance....... While your in there replace #24-25-26... The push rod is what really needs it...
 

holligl

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Back together. Got the final new plate in. I had to bleed the clutch to get proper action before. I think I over filled it, so too much pressure contributed to slipping. Running like new now. Quieter clutch at idle now.

Man that circlip is a pain.

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holligl

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Final thoughts and lessons learned.

I ordered the rebuild kit from RMATV. The OEM parts list was a little confusing about what was included. Some of the parts indicated they were in the kit, but other parts did not. I ordered the cover gasket since it did not say it was part of the kit. It was so I now have an extra. The Kit includes all the friction and clutch plates, the cover gasket, and the wire circlip.

Check all contents in the kit box. Check the inventory against the parts diagram to confirm what you got. I missed the back plate, stuck in the box.

In my initial install the clutch action was weak. I don't know if air somehow got in with the pressure release, but I had to bleed the clutch to restore full motion. That's when I made the mistake and closed the reservoir with it too full. Pressure could not release fully, and that resulted in significant slippage. Correcting the level would have fixed it but I needed to add that last new plate.

As many times as I have removed and replaced the Clutch cover, I never paid attention to the screw tightening sequence. Got it memorized now. Doing it properly will probably improve chances of reusing the gasket. For some reason I needed to remove the header heat shield to clear the cover this time.

I did not measure all of the old plates. I measured one that was slightly under spec so that was good enough to proceed. I will go back and measure them all at some point. For 112K things looked pretty good. The spring was just under max spec.
 
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