On most clutches, you could run 5 gal. of brake fluid through the old fashioned way and never get the air out. A vacuum pump is the only way to do it.
Clutch lever needs pumped after bike sits awhile.
- Thread starter McBride
- Start date
Andylaser
Member
Exactly what I do every morning. Although, you shouldn't really need to do this. Other bikes with hydraulic clutches have not had this issue.McBride said:
Clutch lever needs pumped after bike sits awhile.
Hmmm... Have all of you with this problem changed something in the clutch line system? I mean did you break the clutch lines?
I do not have this problem but just trying to isolate the problem to actually disconnecting the clutch lines and inducing air. ??
I will sure be very careful not to do this for sure! Thanks for posting this.
Hmmm... Have all of you with this problem changed something in the clutch line system? I mean did you break the clutch lines?
I do not have this problem but just trying to isolate the problem to actually disconnecting the clutch lines and inducing air. ??
I will sure be very careful not to do this for sure! Thanks for posting this.
Dogdaze
Well-Known Member
Did you mean clutch lines? Otherwise the brake lines are a whole different issue.............Brick said:
Oops yes clutch. Thanks
Dogdaze said:
Hmmm... Well that shoots my theory.
I've had two Tenere' the 2012 and my 2014ES and no problem yet. I had 80,800 miles on the 12 and now about 32,000 only ES. So I'm gonna color me lucky so far!
I've had two Tenere' the 2012 and my 2014ES and no problem yet. I had 80,800 miles on the 12 and now about 32,000 only ES. So I'm gonna color me lucky so far!
STenitus said:
Ramseybella
Well-Known Member
I had the same issue once after cleaning out my clutch line, not much volume in that cylinder easy to suck air in a jiffy.
When I got done sucking that nasty black Spooge out of the line it felt it had a poor weak compression feel, the lever didn't fully release out the results sounds the same as I thought I did something wrong. ::010::
My mechanic told me to pull the lever in and open the line up at the top banjo bolt then tighten it release and pump the clutch a few times and the issue was gone, and never had it since. ::012::
Seems what will happen is air gets trapped in that location sometimes (high up in the line).
See if this works!!
When I got done sucking that nasty black Spooge out of the line it felt it had a poor weak compression feel, the lever didn't fully release out the results sounds the same as I thought I did something wrong. ::010::
My mechanic told me to pull the lever in and open the line up at the top banjo bolt then tighten it release and pump the clutch a few times and the issue was gone, and never had it since. ::012::
Seems what will happen is air gets trapped in that location sometimes (high up in the line).
See if this works!!
Interesting and a process I'm familiar with on my mountain bike w/ hydraulic disc brakes.Ramseybella said:
To take Ramseybella's suggestion and future bleeding one step further, I wonder if a full-on reverse bleed might be appropriate for the clutch since the fluid reservoir is so stupid small. I'm only YouTube-familiar with reverse bleeding so I wonder if anyone here has real world experience and can confirm it's the shiznit for the Tenere clutch.
Dogdaze
Well-Known Member
I've reversed bled the clutch line (and because of such a small reservoir a real PIA!) and it did not improve it one bit, that's after I bled the normal way, also did the banjo bolt bleed today, and still the same sh*t! I ride for pleasure, so it's important for me to have a decent ride, but with the severe clutch drag and a really bad notchy shifter (yes I lube it at least every other ride, with grease) on today's ride I'm about to throw in the towel, I've done the '14 clutch basket and complete clutch kit change, but enough is enough, yeah I know it's only the small things, but eventually it's that that sends people postal (ok, hyperbole)STenitus said:
Ramseybella
Well-Known Member
Don't cave in Dog!!
You know many other bikes that suck far worse than this can ever be. I feel they will get worse as the designers keep tinkering in the wrong direction..
It all sounds like air is leaking into the system How many miles on your bikes mine is at 38k?
I have never been fond of that small bleed valve does not take much of a turn to open mine always looks corroded looking when nothing on the bike does.
I am thinking of wrapping the yellow gas line fitting tape around it next time I bleed it and even replace the valve with a new one.
My issue has not come back after over 25k miles since, and I have bled it with a vacuum once since then I also have chines shorty levers.
clutch slave cylinder service..
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=14940.0
What the hell is the part number for the Clutch slave cylinder?
Cant seem to find it on any online parts schematic. ::024::
You know many other bikes that suck far worse than this can ever be. I feel they will get worse as the designers keep tinkering in the wrong direction..
It all sounds like air is leaking into the system How many miles on your bikes mine is at 38k?
I have never been fond of that small bleed valve does not take much of a turn to open mine always looks corroded looking when nothing on the bike does.
I am thinking of wrapping the yellow gas line fitting tape around it next time I bleed it and even replace the valve with a new one.
My issue has not come back after over 25k miles since, and I have bled it with a vacuum once since then I also have chines shorty levers.
clutch slave cylinder service..
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=14940.0
What the hell is the part number for the Clutch slave cylinder?
Cant seem to find it on any online parts schematic. ::024::
Squibb
Well-Known Member
Agreed - now you have gone this far Dogdaze, it's got to be worth the cost of replacing the slave. Not a service kit, a full replacement. It's got to be cheaper than changing the bike - then get the system refilled & vac bled. Do the top banjo trick again if needed - I've come across this as a solution on several bikes in the past, both for clutch & brakes. With the advent of ABS, I tend to leave the brake fluid changes on my cars & bikes to the dealer with professional vac gear these days.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, this was the solution on my KTM 990 Adv. Incidentally, KTM use a mineral base clutch fluid, not DOT4, or 5 come to that. I can't recall quite why, but I know there was a spate of slave failures which KTM pretended was nothing to do with them (they must have learnt this approach from BMW), so us punters had no choice but to pay up.
Just one final thought, the clutch line. I think you will have checked down it's full length for leakage already. I've never had this problem with a bike, only with a car. A tiny piece of debris must have flicked up & penetrated one brake flexi hose. It looked like nothing was wrong externally, maybe just a tiny spot of tar had come up from the road, which was easily picked off. However we just could never stop air getting into the system over several days, yet no fluid was appearing to leak out. Then we noticed the spot of tar was back, in the same place. Sure enough there was a microscopic pin hole in the line - a new brake flexi hose soon fixed the problem. The line was drawing in air, but not appearing to leak fluid, due to the differing molecular structures involved.
Hope this helps - it sure is an annoying issue.
..................... KEN
As I mentioned in an earlier post, this was the solution on my KTM 990 Adv. Incidentally, KTM use a mineral base clutch fluid, not DOT4, or 5 come to that. I can't recall quite why, but I know there was a spate of slave failures which KTM pretended was nothing to do with them (they must have learnt this approach from BMW), so us punters had no choice but to pay up.
Just one final thought, the clutch line. I think you will have checked down it's full length for leakage already. I've never had this problem with a bike, only with a car. A tiny piece of debris must have flicked up & penetrated one brake flexi hose. It looked like nothing was wrong externally, maybe just a tiny spot of tar had come up from the road, which was easily picked off. However we just could never stop air getting into the system over several days, yet no fluid was appearing to leak out. Then we noticed the spot of tar was back, in the same place. Sure enough there was a microscopic pin hole in the line - a new brake flexi hose soon fixed the problem. The line was drawing in air, but not appearing to leak fluid, due to the differing molecular structures involved.
Hope this helps - it sure is an annoying issue.
..................... KEN
Dogdaze
Well-Known Member
I've got 16500 mile on the bike, it's just over three years old. I also took out the slave cylinder and made sure it was not cruddy or corroded, it looked virtually new!! But cleaned it anyway, that was back in August. I should also add that I now, after much bleeding get no bubbles when doing the clutch, it's all fluid that get pumped out. AARGH!
Ramseybella
Well-Known Member
Found it part #23P-16381-00-00 $71.38>>
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-23P-16381-00-00.html
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-23P-16381-00-00.html
Ramseybella
Well-Known Member
And you didn't have any issues before you installed the new 14 basket?Ramseybella said:
My post #31 I did the first bleed by hand no vacuum pump.
I used this one from Harbor Freight, hook it to your compressor and have at it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html
Worked excellent a little bulky but I have done my break lines as trying to pump the front break while bleeding the left side on this fat pig is damn near impossible unless you have a lift or a pair of second hands.
Dogdaze
Well-Known Member
Oh no, it was there from the day I bought it over one year ago, had it delivered from the UK, noticed the clutch drag, took it to my local Yam dealer got them to look authorised by the supplying dealer, and they seemed to think it was 'normal' but bled it and didn't even charge me!! I just don't feel it's right, and I've owned dozens of bikes, most 1200cc and over and shaft drives, this is the first to do this. The wife said get rid of it and but something else, riding is my only outlet, so she gets and insists I ride at least once a week.... ::009::Ramseybella said:
Ramseybella
Well-Known Member
Not an all around issue with all of us owners more an isolated issues sort of like the unidentifiable random dead/racing idle "unsolved" continuing saga!! ::010::Dogdaze said:
You think you have it then the Gremlins jump into the pool again!!
But seriously this issue seems to be an easy deduction, no electronics involved just need to trace it down.
I would have them replace the slave assembly And Oil seal part #93109-08061-00 behind the plate including the bleeder valve, something is bleeding your line or introducing air.
And then work at the master, this is not the way it should feel and your under warranty?
If so it's time to be insistent and tell them Hell no this is not right!!
Any other Ten owners in your neck of the woods?
Dogdaze
Well-Known Member
No warranty on used machines, after 2 years, no local bikes, you think these are rare in the US? Parts cost 3 x what they do in the US, so I'm reluctant to keep throwing money at this monkey........... I did get my clutch basket and parts from the US though, through the outlaws.
Ramseybella
Well-Known Member
I don't know what to say, what does it cost to ship to your parts from the U.S.?Dogdaze said:
And your saying you have only 16.5k miles on it?