I know you are going to tell me read the the threads on this matter but I'm going to ask anyway. I have been out of the loop for about a year with med. issues . I'm back to riding again and decided to run synthetic mobi 1 . Changed oil and filter fired up the bike and became concerned with the rumble and rattle . I just want a simple answer for the fix and is it worth doing. I have put 20000 miles and had the ( ride more worry less attitude ) but it seems the rattle has gotten a lot worse . I would like to know if this issue has been worked out or not. By the way 2013 model and love the beast , but would hate like hell to put hot oil into my boot. It's happened before and it burns real bad ! ::002:: ::017::
clutch basket !!
- Thread starter Mikel
- Start date
Dogdaze
Well-Known Member
The rattle I suspect is the CCT (cam chain tensioner), fresh oil after draining will do that until oil reaches all the parts, but the rattle should not last more than a few seconds. As for the clutch basket, yes it rattles, and you could change it for a 2014 version (there is a thread on this). The basket does not fail, except in one or two instances IIRC
EricV
Riding, farkling, riding...
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Dogdaze has offered good comments. But, you are mixing various issues and asking about one.
Mobil 1 - Which version of that oil? Oils marked "energy conserving" have friction modifiers that are not friendly to wet clutches, like in your Super Tenere. If you put energy conserving oil in the bike, drain it and change the filter, put some normal motorcycle oil in and don't worry about it. The short use will likely cause no issues and the oil itself is not related to any noise you noticed, aside from simply no oil pressure for a slightly longer time during the first start up after an oil change.
Rattle - As Dogdaze mentioned, is most likely the CCT or cam chain tensioner. Also called timing chain tensioner. It uses oil pressure as well as a spring to keep tension on the cam timing chain. In part, because of the dry sump nature of our engine, it takes a little longer to bring oil pressure up after an oil/filter change and it's normal to notice some rattling, but it shouldn't last very long. If it's lasting 20-30 seconds, you need to have it looked at. Typically the only failures of CCTs have come over 50k miles. Mine failed at 85k miles, so at 20k miles, you have no serious concern about failure, though you should not ignore it if the noise is present on normal start ups for longer than a few seconds. If this is a problem for your bike, it will get worse before it simply fails.
Clutch - Changing for a '14 or '15 clutch hub is not because of rattling or failure. It is simply to help reduce vibrations felt under load in the 3-4k rpm range. This is most noticeable going up long hills in top gear and varies widely by bike, how the rider perceives it and riding style. The clutch hub change does help, but it's still not as smooth as a later model bike. (and yes, I have done this to my 2012 model)
The clutch change is not a fix. Nothing is broken, nothing will fail. It is simply a choice to try the different design part in an effort to minimize vibration under load. It has nothing to do with noise/rattle/rumble.
Mobil 1 - Which version of that oil? Oils marked "energy conserving" have friction modifiers that are not friendly to wet clutches, like in your Super Tenere. If you put energy conserving oil in the bike, drain it and change the filter, put some normal motorcycle oil in and don't worry about it. The short use will likely cause no issues and the oil itself is not related to any noise you noticed, aside from simply no oil pressure for a slightly longer time during the first start up after an oil change.
Rattle - As Dogdaze mentioned, is most likely the CCT or cam chain tensioner. Also called timing chain tensioner. It uses oil pressure as well as a spring to keep tension on the cam timing chain. In part, because of the dry sump nature of our engine, it takes a little longer to bring oil pressure up after an oil/filter change and it's normal to notice some rattling, but it shouldn't last very long. If it's lasting 20-30 seconds, you need to have it looked at. Typically the only failures of CCTs have come over 50k miles. Mine failed at 85k miles, so at 20k miles, you have no serious concern about failure, though you should not ignore it if the noise is present on normal start ups for longer than a few seconds. If this is a problem for your bike, it will get worse before it simply fails.
Clutch - Changing for a '14 or '15 clutch hub is not because of rattling or failure. It is simply to help reduce vibrations felt under load in the 3-4k rpm range. This is most noticeable going up long hills in top gear and varies widely by bike, how the rider perceives it and riding style. The clutch hub change does help, but it's still not as smooth as a later model bike. (and yes, I have done this to my 2012 model)
The clutch change is not a fix. Nothing is broken, nothing will fail. It is simply a choice to try the different design part in an effort to minimize vibration under load. It has nothing to do with noise/rattle/rumble.
::026:: what Eric said. ^^^
Bruce
Bruce
SilverBullet
Well-Known Member
The 2014 clutch basket uses rubber cushioning inserts like found in rear cush hubs correct? These are wear items but I don't see the replacement pieces in Yamaha's parts fiche. Are they not replaceable in the 2014 basket? One piece assembly only? Wonder what starts happening after high miles and age takes their toll. Might be wishing you had the original metal spring basket installed at that time. I know when rear wheel cush inserts get old things can get real sloppy and jerky.
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EricV
Riding, farkling, riding...
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Elastic durometers are not quite as simple as "rubber". They have been used for decades in shocks of all types from Mt bikes to auto and semi truck applications. They are an engineered product, rather than just a piece of rubber shaped to fit the need. They are not considered a "wear item" any more than a normal clutch basket's springs are, which are subject to fatigue and other issues too. Age and use will take their toll on every part of the machine. How well the new design holds up simply remains to be seen. I'm certainly not going to lose any sleep over it now.SilverBullet said:
I have ~95k miles on my original rear wheel cush rubbers. No jerkyness so far. I think you may be confusing some other brand quality with what we have.
Those are not a wear item either. Despite being listed as a separate part, like every other part of the rear wheel assembly.Thanks for the help you all . I have been out of the loop for a while and should have clarified I'm using Mobil 1 synthetic 10-40 4t . Last i I was on the site we were all in an uproar about the clutch basket . Thanks for clarifying that I'm hearing the CCT I seem to have got all worked up because it seemed a little less intrusive with the Dino oil. I now see some of us are installing manual cam chain tensioners , how's that working out ? I'm truly a ride more worry less kind of guy , but I'm also a crane mechanic by trade and know from experience things rattle before they grenade. I'm good leaving clutch basket as is since I shift accordingly. I'm definitely going to dig into this new CCT issue. Thanks again for all your priceless info. ::008::