Dogdaze has offered good comments. But, you are mixing various issues and asking about one.
Mobil 1 - Which version of that oil? Oils marked "energy conserving" have friction modifiers that are not friendly to wet clutches, like in your Super Tenere. If you put energy conserving oil in the bike, drain it and change the filter, put some normal motorcycle oil in and don't worry about it. The short use will likely cause no issues and the oil itself is not related to any noise you noticed, aside from simply no oil pressure for a slightly longer time during the first start up after an oil change.
Rattle - As Dogdaze mentioned, is most likely the CCT or cam chain tensioner. Also called timing chain tensioner. It uses oil pressure as well as a spring to keep tension on the cam timing chain. In part, because of the dry sump nature of our engine, it takes a little longer to bring oil pressure up after an oil/filter change and it's normal to notice some rattling, but it shouldn't last very long. If it's lasting 20-30 seconds, you need to have it looked at. Typically the only failures of CCTs have come over 50k miles. Mine failed at 85k miles, so at 20k miles, you have no serious concern about failure, though you should not ignore it if the noise is present on normal start ups for longer than a few seconds. If this is a problem for your bike, it will get worse before it simply fails.
Clutch - Changing for a '14 or '15 clutch hub is not because of rattling or failure. It is simply to help reduce vibrations felt under load in the 3-4k rpm range. This is most noticeable going up long hills in top gear and varies widely by bike, how the rider perceives it and riding style. The clutch hub change does help, but it's still not as smooth as a later model bike. (and yes, I have done this to my 2012 model)
The clutch change is not a fix. Nothing is broken, nothing will fail. It is simply a choice to try the different design part in an effort to minimize vibration under load. It has nothing to do with noise/rattle/rumble.