Check engine light & Gas in oil

[14kmtnman]

2013 model, 29k miles. I have 2 issues, maybe related, maybe not. So I'm needing some advice/help for repairs.
Issue 1 - While commuting to work the last few days, I noticed the check engine light would come on after shutting off the throttle while coming up to a stop light. The light does not come every time I do that. I use engine braking a lot for deceleration so it was a surprise to see the light come on. There are no other symptoms. No hard starting, no rough idle, no surging, normal operating temps. I did notice that the clutch was getting a little grabby, not as smooth as normal. Which leads to the next issue.

Issue 2 - While checking the oil today, which I do about every other day, I noticed 2 things. The oil was black & over full. I pulled the filler cap & stuck a rod down into the oil & when it came out, it smelled like gas. The oil & filter was changed less than 500 miles ago (synthetic 10w-40). Have there been issues with the injectors going bad? I did just get back for a 3 week 9k miles trip to Alaska. Could this be from bad & or low grade dirty gas on the trip? If dirty gas, any issues should have appeared much earlier, right?

Any thoughts - suggestions - ideas?

 

[EricV]

Have you had any hard starting issues or been running at high rpms for sustained periods?

Any service work besides the oil/filter change recently?

MPG change?

 

[Checkswrecks]

Pull up your fault codes. This is for how to do it on the Gen2 and there's a similar thread somewhere for the Gen1:
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=17354.0


My guess is that the Check Engine Light will result from having oil in the gas.


As for the gas in the oil in an injected engine, I'd start by looking for an injector which leaks. One way to approach this is to simply take them out and have them professionally cleaned. A lot of car shops have the ultrasonic cleaner to do this for a fee.

 

[14kmtnman]

Thanks for the replys -

EricV - no other mtnc work. I did just get back (early July) from a 3 wk 9 k mile trip to Alaska. I rarely ever go over 5k rpm. No hard starting issues. No change in the mpg's. I get in the low 40 mpg commuting most of the time. The last tank was at 43 mpg

Checkswrecks - My thoughts were a leaky/bad injector too. I will have to check into the ultrasonic cleaning.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Thanks for the replys -

EricV - no other mtnc work. I did just get back (early July) from a 3 wk 9 k mile trip to Alaska. I rarely ever go over 5k rpm. No hard starting issues. No change in the mpg's. I get in the low 40 mpg commuting most of the time. The last tank was at 43 mpg

Checkswrecks - My thoughts were a leaky/bad injector too. I will have to check into the ultrasonic cleaning.

To not have a change in mpg is another clue that the injector may be leaking when parked.

 

[mebgardner]

My guess is that the Check Engine Light will result from having oil in the gas.

Respectfully, How does that happen, Checks? What combination of sensor detections will assert the CEL? Just curious, is all.

Thanks!

 

[Checkswrecks]

Respectfully, How does that happen, Checks? What combination of sensor detections will assert the CEL? Just curious, is all.

Thanks!

Just an educated guess. Any time the CEL comes on, there ought to be a fault stored and there ought to be at least two of those in the injection system, one I was thinking of is for fuel pressure. The other would be ECU electrical feedback, which is probably OK. There may be a code for flooded throttle bodies, which again would be a victim for a leaky injector.


Increase the oil quantity a LOT and other things could also be triggered, such as polluting the O2 sensor.


You watch - He'll check the codes and it'll be the muffler bearings.

 

[mebgardner]

Those muffler bearings get me every time. Ya gotta keep an eye on them, y'know ;}

 

[14kmtnman]

It always seems to be the muffler bearings. That is why I always check them first. ::025::

 

[bigbob]

Re: Check engine light & Gas in oil

It always seems to be the muffler bearings. That is why I always check them first. ::025::

I guess I am lazy. When it will not start I check them. Always fixes it.

 

[14kmtnman]

The injectors are out & going to a shop tomorrow. They don't have ultra sonic cleaning, but will use a pressurized cleaning system they have. If that fails, they have a fuel injector specific shop they use. If all else fails, new one's run about $150 each. More to come...

 

[Don in Lodi]

Have them pressurize them first to see if they in fact are stuck open. The cleaning won't hurt either. Remember, these bike are notorious for giving random oil levels. The oil will have a hydrocarbon smell. Do you over fill your tank then park? The canister could be saturated. Not sure that would impact the crankcase though.The only fuel that should get in the oil is the cap full between the pump and injectors. Or you're getting 22mpg and the gas is passing the rings along with a cloud of smoke.
Pull the codes.

 

[mebgardner]

Do you over fill your tank then park? The canister could be saturated.

Is that what happens if / when I overfill and park, eh? I've seen a puddle under the cycle on a hot afternoon, coming out to the parking lot. The "sniff test" revealed nothing to me. It was a dark dried patch directly under the hoses, under the cycle. I started filling "big" after I drilled the tank filler (because it did not "pop" fuel at me anymore). I figured that drilling, and the ride to work after filling, would cause the fuel tank level to go down far enough to not dribble out the hoses. Yet, there it is. I was not / am still not sure what mechanism still causes it to occur (I still figure the tank filler drilling should prevent that from happening). But, happen it does.

I do not smell gas in the oil, from a sniff test of the oil filler cap area.

 

[14kmtnman]

Unless I'm on the road, I leave about 1/2 inch space below the filler neck when on the side stand. I have not had any dribbling problems in the past. I do run the drain hoses in the skid plate, but that area was dry with no spots. The newish oil came out black & smelled of gas. I think I'll put in regular MC dino oil for 1000 miles or so & then change back to the synthetic. If I get a chance in the morning, I'll call the shop with the idea of pre-pressurization first. If all goes well I should have them back Wed night.

 

[Checkswrecks]

14k - Your OP had three clues and they don't fit for simply overfilling the tank.


High oil level,
Check engine light,
Smell of gas in the oil.


I think you are on the right path.

 

[14kmtnman]

Per the tech guys in the shop, my left injector was leaking under pressure. Thanks Don in Lodi for that suggestion. They are going to keep them over night after cleaning them & retest in the morning just to make sure. Now I move onto the antifreeze change out, since the bike is apart. Thanks for all of the suggestions & help.

 

[14kmtnman]

The injectors are in & seem to be working fine. The bike started right up. I'll find out on a ride tomorrow how they work. It was more time consuming than difficult taking them out & back in.

 

[Don in Lodi]

The injectors are in & seem to be working fine. The bike started right up. I'll find out on a ride tomorrow how they work. It was more time consuming than difficult taking them out & back in.

Check engine light?

 

[14kmtnman]

That only happened sometimes upon quick release of the throttle on decel for the last couple of commute rides. I'll find out today on my long day ride (Herman mtn, Phantom canyon & Shelf rd). I'm hoping it was just the gas in the oil causing the issue. I'll follow up with the results.

 

[14kmtnman]

After a ride of about 275 miles, the check engine light did not come on once. The clutch seems a little grabby though. Averaged about 50 mpg. So the injectors are working fine. The bike does seem to run a bit hotter with the regular oil instead of the synthetic by 5-10 degrees.