Carbon Build up what causes it...

Kevhunts

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I asked the following question way back when the first member posted a carbon issue but don't remember getting any answers..."Of those who had/have excessive carbon issues, who had previously raised their CO settings when it was discovered that it could be done? I know many on here experimented with CO settings & Air by-pass screw settings.
 

bnschroder

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Another question: once there is carbon build up, how do you get rid of it? I remember reading somewhere that spraying water into the intake (not so much to cause hydro-lock) was a great way to clean the engine. Is that true?


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Checkswrecks

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bnschroder said:
Another question: once there is carbon build up, how do you get rid of it? I remember reading somewhere that spraying water into the intake (not so much to cause hydro-lock) was a great way to clean the engine. Is that true?


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I've tried the steam method and it worked about as well as a good Seafoam cleaning, but neither are complete. (Seafoam anymore is a generic term like Xerox, because other cleaners can do the same thing.) I'd recommend the Seafoam method before using water, because the water creates steam pressure which can blow the head gasket and do other bad things. There are a bunch of Seafoam how-to videos on Youtube.


By far, neither of these are as thorough as prevention or disassembly and mechanical cleaning.
 

EricV

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bnschroder said:
Another question: once there is carbon build up, how do you get rid of it? I remember reading somewhere that spraying water into the intake (not so much to cause hydro-lock) was a great way to clean the engine. Is that true?
When I was wrenching for money, I have de-carbnoized many an engine. It's not for the beginner or feint of heart. Do it wrong and you can do serious damage. At that time, my favorite product was a Chrysler chemical. Using a vacuum line, you sucked small amounts into the engine at a time and then shut it down and let it sit for 20-30 minutes. Then fired it up and did a bit more, then ran higher rpms. Preferably not with a white garage door behind the car... Lots of crap came out the tail pipe. Other hazards with this method are coating and damaging O2 sensors and clogging Cat converters.

For the Super Ten, I stick with regular does of Yamaha Ring Free. Hopefully this will be a preventative measure, but I honestly won't know until the engine gets opened. I hope that time never comes.
 

Kevhunts

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EricV said:
When I was wrenching for money, I have de-carbnoized many an engine. It's not for the beginner or feint of heart. Do it wrong and you can do serious damage. At that time, my favorite product was a Chrysler chemical. Using a vacuum line, you sucked small amounts into the engine at a time and then shut it down and let it sit for 20-30 minutes. Then fired it up and did a bit more, then ran higher rpms. Preferably not with a white garage door behind the car... Lots of crap came out the tail pipe. Other hazards with this method are coating and damaging O2 sensors and clogging Cat converters.

For the Super Ten, I stick with regular does of Yamaha Ring Free. Hopefully this will be a preventative measure, but I honestly won't know until the engine gets opened. I hope that time never comes.
In my day it was GM Top engine cleaner, probably the same chemical as the Chrysler product, was used in the same manner.

Checkswrecks said:
I've tried the steam method and it worked about as well as a good Seafoam cleaning, but neither are complete. (Seafoam anymore is a generic term like Xerox, because other cleaners can do the same thing.) I'd recommend the Seafoam method before using water, because the water creates steam pressure which can blow the head gasket and do other bad things. There are a bunch of Seafoam how-to videos on Youtube.


By far, neither of these are as thorough as prevention or disassembly and mechanical cleaning.
With water, it was the steam action that broke up the carbon deposits. While not as effective as a chemical, water is cheap. We used to rig a full sized coffee can of water with a 1/8" tube coming off and create a trickle into a carb or throttle body. You could repeat this as many times as you wanted. It's a little trickier with a side-draft throttle(s), the key to remember is not to drown the engine or you will liquid lock a cylinder.
 
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RonH

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Wouldn't it be more fun just to take it out and run the snot out of it? ::26::
I think so. Maybe this engine is different in how carbon effects it, don't know one way or the other, but in all my years riding, I've never seen carbon as a problem, and Gregs comment on the valve seals ect being all worn out at whatever miles it was, the oil burning was a quart every 2000 miles if memory serves. To me when an engine is burning a quart every 400 miles it's time to rebuild, and even then carbon was never any problem.
 

greg the pole

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RonH said:
I think so. Maybe this engine is different in how carbon effects it, don't know one way or the other, but in all my years riding, I've never seen carbon as a problem, and Gregs comment on the valve seals ect being all worn out at whatever miles it was, the oil burning was a quart every 2000 miles if memory serves. To me when an engine is burning a quart every 400 miles it's time to rebuild, and even then carbon was never any problem.
think about sealing properties of the rings/valve seals. If you're buring oil, you're loosing power. Trust me, the motor felt better than new once rebuilt. Besides, for longer trips, it was a total PITB to take a liter of oil with me on a longer trip, as it usually spilled in my bag.
When ever I rebuild my 300 2 stroke (rings outside of allowable ring gap-about 150 hrs riding), a new piston, rings, make an enormous difference. When going up a known hill, the rebuilt motor will want to wheelie me right off the bike in the same gear, rpm, speed.
Rings, seals are all wear items. If you ride the bike as intened, you will stress the motor.
 

samstoterau

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Hey guys, I have a major problem. I have a 2012 super tenere (also have a 2019 and had a 2018 before that) that's at a dealer in Phoenix having the engine rebuilt because of extreme carbon and some kind of dirt ingestion (according to the dealer). My question is, how the hell does this happen? I'm a daily rider. I was an automotive mechanic before I became an airline pilot, and I do all of my own maintenance. I change the oil quarterly and run premium gas. Most of my riding is highway, 80-90mph, I like to accelerate. Any ideas, pictures attached.
 

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Hey guys, I have a major problem. I have a 2012 super tenere (also have a 2019 and had a 2018 before that) that's at a dealer in Phoenix having the engine rebuilt because of extreme carbon and some kind of dirt ingestion (according to the dealer). My question is, how the hell does this happen? I'm a daily rider. I was an automotive mechanic before I became an airline pilot, and I do all of my own maintenance. I change the oil quarterly and run premium gas. Most of my riding is highway, 80-90mph, I like to accelerate. Any ideas, pictures attached.


Did the engine just one day stop working and you took it to a shop ? How was it running right before it 'wasn't' ? How many miles on this engine? Miles don't necessarily mean much with this bike. It's just info for my own brain.


Is your motor 'stock' ? Ive seen pistons that look like this before. For a Tenere and especially the 12-13 models this (to me) look like an average motor. For my own reference I always go back for comparison on a buddies bike that now has about 130K on it (2012). The intake valves are 100% totally spotless, and from what I can see with a borescope, the pistons look very clean but not 100% carbon free. He uses Sea-Foam 99% of the time at each fill up. It's the only bike that I have worked on that the internals are this "clean"... (he also revs the bike up, accelerates, and runs at 80+, (for reference ) (Like the poster said)

I only mention Sea-Foam for posable future use. Just to help carbon no matter how it might be produced.

How often do you need to add oil on your 2012? This might be an oil burning "carbon" issue and not entirely a fueling issue. The 12-13 burn more oil than the 14++

As far as the scratch in the cylinder, that is strange. Im assuming the air box is all installed properly. Im leaning more towards, dry cylinder, possible over heat, lean fuel, or something along those lines other than dirt. To me this does NOT look like "dirt wear" to me.

The exhaust port picture looks normal. They have the head off, pull those valved and look them over / clean / re lap those suckers. How do the valves actually look ? Clean or crusty ? (tops side of the valves)

If you are having new pistons and rings installed, I believe you can throw in the 2014++ pistons/rings. I believe both of those changed in 2014 along with ring gap specs. I would do a little homework and see if the part numbers supersede the old ones. This will help part of the 2012-2013 oil burn. I believe the other oil entrance is guides. They have the head off, look at those guides as well.

Im quite certain these cylinders are Nikasil coated. Im sure you know all about it.. Probably have to replace those jugs if you want it 100%. Of course we are only looking at a few photos. Do the cylinder really look like this with the dark and light colors across it? Is this accurate photo or just some type of shadow? Just asking because if its not shadowing, I wonder if this is some type of /heat/ coloration ? Not sure if the shop as an inside mirometer to double check that. Similar to this:


If I was looking this over, I would also drop the pan, eye-ball it all out and check the pick up screen as well.... Just to cross the T and dot the I. (Ive done this a few times with peoples bikes on my own time, I wanted to just 'double check'... I have found a few surprises in there that were not the good kind........... )

*****.***** When was the last valve check ? Did a shop perform this task ? This is probably a LONG shot, did they check the valve clearance before tearing it all down ? I recently helped someone on the internet that had issues like yourself. Similar carbon, and mechanical problems. His exhaust valves were super tight and actually damaged the seat. Messed up the guide, more oil, more carbon, Etc... Etc...... Im just thinking out loud because I just looked at some similar photos with this other guys bike... NOT suggesting this is your issue but once that head is all cleaned up and valves pulled, eye ball the seats for any cracks. Just another thought.


BTW- could you post or PM the oil you have been running... I don't want the "internet" to get off on an 'oil-conversation '... LOL
 
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