Brake pad problem?

[hawk281]

I changed out my rear brake pads at about 18000 miles on my 2015 S10 ES. On sunday went for a ride in the rain for about a 100miles. i parked the bike in my garage and on tuesday, i went to move it out of the way, it appeared it was in gear. as i went to pop it into neutral, the bike suddenly broke free. didn't think anything about until i walked around the bike and saw the rusted outline of the rear pad. I have never seen a rear brake pad rust to a disc in one day. I called EBC and they were surprised by my report. I photoed the pads and the rust spot and they are looking into it. Pulled the pads and they look normal, Just a heads up! ::021::

 

[~TABASCO~]

normal,

my stock ones do that... go ride and its back to normal in 200 ft....

The person on the phone acting surprised must not own a bike, or just not mechanical type person..... happens all the time....

 

[hawk281]

actually the guy I spoke to is a rider and has worked as a technician for EBC. and i have had bikes for a while and i have never had one lock up like that or for that matter leave a brake pad outline in a day. While i know that once I ride it the rust spot will go away, it's still disconcerting for that to happen. ::021::

 

[RIVA]

As Tabasco says "Quite common occurrence" ::021::

 

[WJBertrand]

BTDT, every bike (and car for that matter) I've ever owned with semi-metallic or sintered metal pads has done that. First time you touch the brakes that rust spot is obliterated.


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[OldRider]

Leaving a brake pad spot on the disc is common, sticking tight enough to lock the rear wheel isn't. I would check things out very carefully.

 

[WJBertrand]

Leaving a brake pad spot on the disc is common, sticking tight enough to lock the rear wheel isn't. I would check things out very carefully.

Sounds like it broke free fairly easily, just sitting on the bike, which is normal, so wasn't actually "locked". This assumes locked means you could slide the rear tire trying to move the bike. Some resistance and even a metallic click or bang as it breaks loose is normal in my experience. Tip: when arriving home in the wet, drag the brakes a bit before parking to clear out the water. Of course if you have to park outside in the rain this won't help.

 

[groundhog]

I have had the same a couple of times but not a problem. As said it appears to be fairly common.

 

[scott123007]

It's actually more about the disk material than the pads. Yes, it's perfectly normal, but the scenario has to be a cool, wet disk with the brakes applied at the last moment of movement, and then left to sit for a while. If you are panicking about your situation, don't ever get a bike with cast iron disks!!! LOL

 

[VPS1]

Normal


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[hobdayd]

I was a disc brake development engineer for 20 plus years - cars, trucks, industrial..This corrosion problem is a normal occurrence in the right (wrong) conditions especially with sintered metal pads.

I only ever fit OE pads and discs because I know the development effort that goes into approving friction couples for an application. It takes 2 to 3 years to sign off a pad material with a disc material with many years of history to back up engineering changes. Tests include rig testing, vehicle testing, dyno testing, environmental testing and field trials. Not to mention examination of warranty returns. All this is beyond the resources of smaller aftermarket companies.

I never buy aftermarket pads / discs. How do you really know what you are buying in comparison to OE equipment?

We spend a fortune buying horse power and performance then buy aftermarket pads of unknown performance (but with great claims) to save some cash but our lives depend on the brakes in an emergency!

Next time you look in the mirrors and see a 40T truck in Europe it will have cast iron discs BTW and so do most cars.

 

[hawk281]

I have read with interest the comments that have been posted regarding the brake pad issue. While I have seen pads rust to a disc, normally a time span of more than a day is involved. I have owned a number of bikes over the past 45 years, as well as working in the motorcycle industry as a mechanic and I can honestly say that i have never had a pad rust to a disc bad enough that i thought the bike was in gear in a day. Based on what i read here, most of you have experienced this issue in greater or lesser degrees. Which is good in a way, because it shows that it might not be a problem. However, when i talk to the tech at EBC and his manager and they wanted photos and other information, I figured that putting it the forum, would notify the S10 riders of this issue and give everyone a heads up. Just my train of thought. ::021::

 

[scott123007]

I have read with interest the comments that have been posted regarding the brake pad issue. While I have seen pads rust to a disc, normally a time span of more than a day is involved. I have owned a number of bikes over the past 45 years, as well as working in the motorcycle industry as a mechanic and I can honestly say that i have never had a pad rust to a disc bad enough that i thought the bike was in gear in a day. Based on what i read here, most of you have experienced this issue in greater or lesser degrees. Which is good in a way, because it shows that it might not be a problem. However, when i talk to the tech at EBC and his manager and they wanted photos and other information, I figured that putting it the forum, would notify the S10 riders of this issue and give everyone a heads up. Just my train of thought. ::021::

It only felt like it was in gear because we are getting older and weaker

 

[hawk281]

there is that. i took my KTM450 out for first time in six months and it was a lot of work. ::021::

 

[WJBertrand]

I was a disc brake development engineer for 20 plus years - cars, trucks, industrial..This corrosion problem is a normal occurrence in the right (wrong) conditions especially with sintered metal pads.

I only ever fit OE pads and discs because I know the development effort that goes into approving friction couples for an application. It takes 2 to 3 years to sign off a pad material with a disc material with many years of history to back up engineering changes. Tests include rig testing, vehicle testing, dyno testing, environmental testing and field trials. Not to mention examination of warranty returns. All this is beyond the resources of smaller aftermarket companies.

I never buy aftermarket pads / discs. How do you really know what you are buying in comparison to OE equipment?

We spend a fortune buying horse power and performance then buy aftermarket pads of unknown performance (but with great claims) to save some cash but our lives depend on the brakes in an emergency!

Next time you look in the mirrors and see a 40T truck in Europe it will have cast iron discs BTW and so do most cars.

This is my approach. Unless the OEM brakes are really terrible for some reason, and this is pretty rare these days, I will stay with OEM pads at replacement time. I've had all manner of noise and other problems using aftermarket parts in both cars and bikes that weren't there with the OEM parts. It's not worth the few bucks saved and any perceived performance advantage is usually overshadowed by other hassles. I recall some special green Ferrodo pads I fitted to my old ST1100. Advertised as having better initial bite and a higher CoF, I didn't notice too much improvement over the OEMs but thought they were Ok and a bit cheaper. Later I was caught in a rain storm, imagine my surprise where there were no brakes at all upon initial application! Reflexively and in a mild panic, I just squeezed the lever harder, that's when the brakes rather suddenly dried out and grabbed aggressively. Luckily my bike had ABS or I fear the sudden change might have resulted in a locked front wheel!

I would use aftermarket pads only if in a squeeze where I could not park the bike a wait for OEM parts, or if I were using aftermarket rotors. In the latter case I would try to use the aftermarket manufacturer's recommended pads to go with their rotor.

 

[greg the pole]

from past experience, I have not had good luck with EBC pads on the rear. they wear out super quick.
Best to stick to OEM pads.

 

[OldRider]

::018::

from past experience, I have not had good luck with EBC pads on the rear. they wear out super quick.
Best to stick to OEM pads.

Which EBC pads have you used? They come in several different compounds, some are soft and some are hard and it makes a big difference.

 

[Don in Lodi]

I see the imprint of the pad outline all the time in the automotive field. Doesn't polish out for many many miles. Especially rear discs that have the parking brake integrated in the caliper. Front discs are not immune tho.
No time frame, no knowledge of lock up.

 

[Xt1200zsupertenere]

Buy blue Brembo pads

 

[Brick]

Buy blue Brembo pads

Do tell about these Brembo blue pads.

I like a rear pad that well doesn't grab too much. In the old days of riding CB900F's and such I used to induce just a little air in the rear brake line. They still worked well but were a bit soft. How do the blue's feel?




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