I just flushed mine. To activate the abs, all I did was back up to one end of the garage and give er shit half way across then jump on the front brake hard. I did it 5 or 6 times and you can see by the skid marks that the abs is engaging.
Brake Bleed
- Thread starter scopeusa
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Kevhunts
"For every one you see, you probably missed three"
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::006::Spaggy said:
I was surprised to find small rubber plugs in the connector. (Pushed two in trying to remove.) I assume these are to keep dirt and dust out. Will need to find the fine needle nose pliers...Kevhunts said:
holligl said:
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Kevhunts
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Just squeeze the tab on the side of the connector and pull the whole "plug" out of the end of the black connector. Then you can access the pins inside.holligl said:I was surprised to find small rubber plugs in the connector. (Pushed two in trying to remove.) I assume these are to keep dirt and dust out. Will need to find the fine needle nose pliers...
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I jumped the two pins needed with a small alligator clip.
Read this after pulling the two round plugs and using the paper clip approach. Confirmed this approach works by running the test. Very quick and easy. (Easier than pushing the bike down the driveway!!) It runs the pulsations 2-3 seconds Front, then rear, then front again, so a good 6 seconds or so.Kevhunts said:
Summarized:
Up on Center stand.
Make sure the sidestand kill switch works.
Leave it in gear.
Make sure your battery is well charged.
Install the test adapter (Jump top two wires, Light Blue and Black) on the ABS test plug under the seat.
Confirm the side stand is down.
Ignition key ON (I waited for fuel pump to stop)
Press and hold the Starter Button for at least 4 seconds (doesn't start since it is in gear and sidestand is down)
Release the starter button.
After releasing the starter button, pull the front brake lever and press the rear brake pedal simultaneously and continue to hold both.
The front lever should pulsate for a few seconds, then the rear pedal will pulsate a few seconds, and then the front will pulsate again.
Release the brakes, ignition off, put it in neutral, remove the test adapter, etc....
worncog
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Thank you for the summary.holligl said:
Bled the brakes and clutch yesterday with only minor variations. Pulled connector, removed rubber plugs for blue and black wires, reinstalled connector, then inserted modified paperclip into connector for a jumper. Followed above sequence and then bled brakes again after. Easy peasy. Remove paperclip, reinstall rubber plugs into connector. Oh, I do have speed bleeders installed which makes life easier on periodic fluid changes.
Note on the clutch master cylinder. My clutch lever was acting funky the two days prior to this maintenance. Found fluid in mc reservoir to be very dark, and given the size of the vessel there is not a lot of fluid in there even when full. Suctioned fluid and wiped out reservoir prior to bleeding. Lever returned to normal, well, after at least twice what would be considered normal bleeding. Ordered soft goods just in case. Labrador or points afar with a mushy lever is not on my list of fun things. I think that may shorten down to an annual on the maintenance schedule.
EricV
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Just remember that you can't vacuum bleed with Speed Bleeders in place. With the tiny volume of the clutch, it can be interesting to bleed with speed bleeders. Not as much of an issue with the brakes.
worncog
Live a life worth living.
Good point Eric. I found the clutch bleed not too bad using the speed bleeders. Just set up a trickle flow with brake fluid container, with small opposing holes in foil seal, tilted on reservoir and had a steady pattern of slow squeezes on the lever. slow squeezes as to keep the fluid from spitting out of reservoir. Highly recommend covering adjacent area with a large shop towel just in case. Wanted a really good flush considering my mc was on the verge of crapping itself. Will probably flush it more often after seeing the condition of the fluid.EricV said:
I installed a SB8125LL on the right front caliper, a SB7100 on the rear caliper, and SB8125L on clutch and left front caliper as per TomZ's recommendation. IIRC I ordered them straight from speedbleeders.com. Speed Bleeders are my preferred method for my bikes, YMMV.
TomZ's excellent post: http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=13895.0
I did complete the fluid replacement a couple weeks ago the "old fashioned" way, manually with two people. Pretty easy with 2. The clutch fluid was much worse than the brakes. One bottle was plenty. Neither the clutch or rear brake holds much. Cycled the ABS twice with the test setup, then re-bled.
I'm a relative noob, but bleeding brakes sucks. I hate imposing on people to help, but doing it alone is a PITA. I have a set of Speed Bleeders on my desk waiting to be installed. Never gonna look back.
shift_enter
Active Member
I just did the clutch and brake bleed for the first time on a 2013 and after cracking the bleeder valve I didn’t have to close it each time I pumped the pedal/lever, there was zero reuptake of the expelled fluid through the open bleeder when I released the lever/pedal. finding this out made it much simpler for me to get it done. I only opened the bleeder 1/8 of a turn at most. didnt use a mighty vac and have super clean fluid coming out of all the bleeders.
I will second the earlier comment about putting a paper towel over the open reservoir, I didn’t for a bit and now I need to wash the bike to get the caustic brake fluid off
I will second the earlier comment about putting a paper towel over the open reservoir, I didn’t for a bit and now I need to wash the bike to get the caustic brake fluid off
ErictheBiking
Active Member
If you take the hose from the bleeder valve up and over the mudguard/fender you can leave the valve open and just pump away.
The hose will always have fluid in it and air cannot enter the valve.
Just keep topping up the reservoir - no need for a second person; no need to open and close the valve.
Always presuming the hose to bleeder valve is an air tight connection.
The hose will always have fluid in it and air cannot enter the valve.
Just keep topping up the reservoir - no need for a second person; no need to open and close the valve.
Always presuming the hose to bleeder valve is an air tight connection.
VROOM
New Member
I am with the original post. Arrgh
I cannot bleed the rear brake as it doesn't pump out any fluid from the bleeder valve when I push down on the foot pedal . No rear brakes at all. I noticed the rear brake line from the rear cylinder goes under the gas tank and not to the caliper. Where does it go? I did the jumper cable thing under the seat and though it made a noise and some strong vibration I still have no brake in the back. ABS light still comes on. Help! Propaul3681@yahoo.com
I cannot bleed the rear brake as it doesn't pump out any fluid from the bleeder valve when I push down on the foot pedal . No rear brakes at all. I noticed the rear brake line from the rear cylinder goes under the gas tank and not to the caliper. Where does it go? I did the jumper cable thing under the seat and though it made a noise and some strong vibration I still have no brake in the back. ABS light still comes on. Help! Propaul3681@yahoo.com
cyclemike4
Well-Known Member
This is the way i have done every hydraulic system i have worked on for years and as long as the componets in the system are good it has worked for me 100 percent of the time. Especially if there is a lot of air in the system. First open the bleeder then gently push the brake petal down full stroke. Hold it down! Then close the bleeder. Let the brake petal up and dont move it. Open the bleeder again and slowly push the petal down. Repeat this even when fluid is coming out. When you have a good clean stream of fluid then close the bleeder and see if you have pressure. If you do bleed it normally. Put pressure on the betal and then open the bleeder till you are happy with the system. I like to use a clear hose over the bleeder looped over something into a bottle. Lots cleaner and you can see any air bubbles.
VROOM
New Member
Thank you for responding i have replaced at least 6 master cylinders in cars and bled the systems easily. I have tried your system on this bike (what you outlined) several times. When I press down on the rear master (the brake peddle) nothing comes out of the bleeder valve or even the hose (which I opened) to the caliper. the reservoirs are all full. Is my master cylinder bad? Do I open up the system and try to bench bleed the master.?
VROOM
New Member
I can’t even find a shop that will work on this in a reasonable amt of time.
cyclemike4
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you are on the right track. I would definitely try bleeding just the rear brake master cylinder to make sure it is pushing fluid. It may have something in the fluid hole that primes the piston with fluid. If it is working good then the next step would be to bypass the abs unit and run a line only to the rear caliper. I have a recent picture on what you did to your bike today thread that shows this. It sounds like you may have an issue with the rear master cylinder though. Good luck on the repairs. Hope you get it worked out soon!
JMNTX
New Member
Where do I find the picture?