autoteach said:
Love the info, but I would argue that the 8volts that you saw were actually from the startup draw of the electrical starting motor compounded with the effort of cranking the motor. From that point on you don't see a dip that low again. But, yes! This is the really important information. This is more detail than necessary, but it is very good information.
My thinking goes like this..
A motor usually stops on one of the compression strokes and may bounce back a bit, In my early days I used to push past that on the kick starter so I could get some inertia to get through the next compression so I have a feel for how hard that bit is. Now that was on a 125 piston. The starter doesn't have that luxury of pushing past that point (give it a few years and we'll have computer controlled starters with more transistors in them than the first Mars Rovers) and therefore has a 50% chance of hitting the non-decomp piston and needing to suck amps like crazy to get past it PLUS adding a lot of energy to a non moving engine with all the weight involved (probably the main component), after that it has some time to build inertia in the engine, so the next compression has some built up inertial energy behind it and bleed by from the de-comp mechanism, so less needed from the starter to draw. By the third stroke the starter is only adding enough energy to keep the inertia going so no need for the big draw. It usually fires on that stroke.
So yeah your description is probably more accurate but I would have to go 1080p wide screen to fit the whole explanation in for an expected audience of two.
Since I have a Cro I did this to get baseline info so every now and again I can check progress. Prefer to do PM than be stuck in the middle of nowhere. All vehicles have limited life batteries. All my batteries have dates on them as well. I know it's geeky but the last time I got stuck with a dead battery was the 15 years ago. Now I have said that of course...
Sound fair enough?
