Bike wouldn't start this morning - loud clicking when thumbing the starter

Kidder

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I was going to ride the bike to work today. I thumbed the starter button and I hear a loud clicking from the right side area where the battery is located. I tried it twice and got the same results. It sounds like the starter isn't engaging. I'm going to pull the panel when I get home today to see where the noise is coming from. I haven't started the bike since early January. The battery has been on a Battery Tender so I doubt that is the issue (although it could be).

Sounds like I may be dragging it to the dealer this weekend. :-[
 

offcamber

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Couple things I would check... 1. Battery Voltage. should be over 12V with the bike off....2. While your there check that all the nuts holding the battery cables on are tight. Loose battery terminals will cause that issue.
 

Koinz

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Oh Boy, an actual problem. Everybody in Troubleshooting mode. :D ;D

+1 on the loose cables. I don't think we've had any starter issues yet.
 

BaldKnob

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My bike did the same clicking, no-start scenario late, last year. Dealer replaced the starter relay (YES coverage). Hope yours is just as simple.
 

Kidder

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Koinz said:
Oh Boy, an actual problem. Everybody in Troubleshooting mode. :D ;D

+1 on the loose cables. I don't think we've had any starter issues yet.
My luck, I'll be the first. Just like I was the first one to document/mention the loose spokes. :'(
 

Kidder

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Mark, I plan on trying that when I get home. Thanks.
 

markjenn

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Kidder said:
Mark, I plan on trying that when I get home. Thanks.
My bet is that she'll start and you have a battery issue rather than a starter issue. Then you get to make the decision on whether to go expensive high-tech lithium or cheap old-tech AGM.

- Mark
 

Southern7

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My owners manual said these have a VRLA battery and a conventional charger should not be used. My battery tender documentation says it is ok for VRLA batteries. The Battery Tender website also list advantages and disadvantages of all the types of batts. and VRLA has a low initial start up amperage. I'd check the cables first. I took my tender pig tail off my old bike when I put it up for sale and last time I rode it, it had some battery connection issues. When I checked it, the neg. cable was loose on the battery from where I had removed the tender pig tail and re-installed the cable. After about a half a turn or more it was tight and no more issues. You may have not gotten something tight if you installed a battery tender pigtail and it may have worked loose.
 

GrahamD

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First reaction is the same as the people above, Sounds like there is enough there to energize the relay but not enough to turn the Big Alloy.
 

Kidder

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Well, you guys were right, I hope. It fired up with the jumper cables hooked up. I'm doing a voltage test now. I'm going to go with the better battery for replacement.
 

whisperquiet

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Try cleaning the cable ends and battery terminals first…….it reduces resistance with a cleaner contact point between the cable ends and the terminals.
My '13 S10 would not start at the gas station after fueling up last summer….the cables were tight and with a quick cleanup, the bike started right up.
 

Koinz

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Kidder said:
Well, you guys were right, I hope. It fired up with the jumper cables hooked up. I'm doing a voltage test now. I'm going to go with the better battery for replacement.
Damn, another easy fix. Knew it would be. Glad you narrowed it down to the problem area though. ;D
 

Kidder

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The terminals are clean and they were tight. The voltage reads 11.0. So, I'm ordering a new battery since I assume that's not covered by the Y.E.S. extended warranty.
 

Karson

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Kidder said:
The terminals are clean and they were tight. The voltage reads 11.0. So, I'm ordering a new battery since I assume that's not covered by the Y.E.S. extended warranty.
While the Owner's manual doesn't explicitly say it doesn't cover batteries on 10-8, but my bets are mama yamaha considers that a consumable. I guess you could verify with your dealer. ::024::

Go grab a brewski and go shopping for a Shorai, or a genuine yuasa ytz12s tomorrow, and get back riding!
 

Kidder

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Karson said:
While the Owner's manual doesn't explicitly say it doesn't cover batteries on 10-8, but my bets are mama yamaha considers that a consumable. I guess you could verify with your dealer. ::024::

Go grab a brewski and go shopping for a Shorai, or a genuine yuasa ytz12s tomorrow, and get back riding!
I just ordered the Shorai Duration Recommendation LFX19A4-BS12.
 

autoteach

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I think it is important that we get battery voltage testing done right. This is a problem area for amateurs as well as new mechanics. Voltage on an unladen battery means nothing. I will repeat that voltage means nothing when it is not being used. While a battery's unladen voltage should be 12.6 (never mind the shorai), that voltage merely explains the pressure exerted on the few, or many non moving electrons. And that is the problem, you have no idea of the amount of electrons available- the batteries ability to carry out the chemical reaction to release the quantity of electrons necessary to do real work, and it does not give you any idea to the internal resistance that the battery has to the movement of the electrons. I have seen batteries test unladen perfectly fine, but under a load turn out to be down about 2.1 volts from where they should be. This is due to a broken positive or negative strap within the battery leaving out one cell from the party. I have also seen batteries that test 12.6 with no load and 8 volts with. This is largely due to plates with sulfate buildup, or rather when charged they have not converted the lead sulfate back to sulfuric acid and lead. so, for future battery testing, you can look at the unladen voltage but realize that this doesn't mean much, test the voltage with a load and it should not drop below 10 volts, at about 9 the computers stop functioning altogether. Happy Battery testing.
 

autoteach

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Love the info, but I would argue that the 8volts that you saw were actually from the startup draw of the electrical starting motor compounded with the effort of cranking the motor. From that point on you don't see a dip that low again. But, yes! This is the really important information. This is more detail than necessary, but it is very good information.
 
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