Arrow exhaust upgrade

Supertee123

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Hi Folks,I’m looking to replace my stock headder (only)with Arrow exhaust,the spec. shows a couple more horse power also no cat.converter just wondering if the gains are worth it
 

Strummer

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Hi
What I am told ( and I think ) changing the muffler is just for the sound not the performance...
Again this is just my thought
 

Jlq1969

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My personal opinion is that the difference between the oem and arrows is “only” the decat….why not replace the cat with a flanged tube. when you have to pass an inspection, you put the catalyst…..with 6 flanges, 4 screws with nuts, a 30 cm stainless steel tube and someone with a tig that welds well…..you would save a couple of hundred of u$
 

bimota

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if you take off the oem headers and replace with arrows headers loosing the cat surely the bike will run rough and the ecu will need a flash

rob
 

Sierra1

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A lot of members here will swear by the change. To me, the investment does not equal the return.
 

pooh and xtine

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I don’t think there are any material power gains from the Arrow headers. I fitted them because my ecu remap disabled the O2 sensors, so the richer mixture would have buggered up the cat. However prior to the remap the bike ran absolutely fine with the headers and the standard map - the O2 sensors make sure it runs 14.4:1 in closed loop and at wider throttle openings it’s plenty rich enough! If there are no changes to the inlet (airbox and filter) the bike flows no more air in any case ‘cos the cat provides very little restriction.
 

GearDriven

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I agree with the last few posts. I have arrow headers with stock muffler and a re-map...was not blown away when I did both at the same time. However, I even got along fine with the stock mapping, which seems to bother so many people around here. Maybe I'm not nearly as sensitive to this stuff, or my daily commute/saddle time causes my brain & wrist to compensate over time, or combo of both. Stay safe-
 

~TABASCO~

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Over 10 years I’ve messed with every combo of performance parts with this bike. I could write a short book about it probably. Lol


Most after market mufflers are 2-3 wheel HP
Arrow headers are 6-8 wheel HP

If you like to get into the ‘weeds’ and are a person that is hyper aware- you will notice a slight loss in ‘power’ feeling down low with the headers and muffler, and feel ‘more’ power mid-high RPM.

IMOP- the extra benefit is when you take this (headers & muffler) and then add some fuel (in the necessary lean spots.) along with a possible flash. Maybe even the proper performance spark plugs. This is when these “ingredients” really bring this engine alive.

But let’s be honest. These mods make this engine feel much snappier, more powerful, better response, and maintains the reliability. But these mods are not adding 25-50 HP and not bringing it up to par with BMW or KTM.
It just makes the delivery / ride ability much better than stock.

Is this worth it ? This answer is 100% personal. I’ve had the opportunity to ride hundreds of Tenere bikes. I personally like the bolt on engine mods. But that’s just me. The very next guy will post “why waste your money, Etc”

Also for folks that have a 2012-2013 dont forget about the little freebie "power" mod... LOL. its free - The clutch fuse jumper. If your new, and have a 12-13 do a search for fuse clutch jumper. Its fun to play with and makes a noticeable difference.

Each there own :)
 
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flatgrind

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…Also for folks that have a 2012-2013 dont forget about the little freebie "power" mod... LOL. its free - The clutch fuse jumper. If your new, and have a 12-13 do a search for fuse clutch jumper. Its fun to play with and makes a noticeable difference…
Can you expound on this a bit more? A search of the forums reveals references to two posts, but those posts seem to have been deleted or at least the URLs referencing them don’t work anymore.

EDIT:
Searched for “clutch jumper” and found this post that is still live and describes it:
 
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~TABASCO~

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Can you expound on this a bit more? A search of the forums reveals references to two posts, but those posts seem to have been deleted or at least the URLs referencing them don’t work anymore.

EDIT:
Searched for “clutch jumper” and found this post that is still live and describes it:
Here is a bit more info on ADVrider.com

 

V2Neal

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Having done the headers, muffler and re-flash, I'm on the fence as to 'worth it'. My only issue is that there is about a 400 RPM hole in the throttle. 2800-3200-ish is dead stick. I find this really annoying. Hopefully some more tuning can fix this.
The sound is good and the weight loss in the muffler makes up for some of the other stuff I've bolted on.
 

~TABASCO~

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Having done the headers, muffler and re-flash, I'm on the fence as to 'worth it'. My only issue is that there is about a 400 RPM hole in the throttle. 2800-3200-ish is dead stick. I find this really annoying. Hopefully some more tuning can fix this.
The sound is good and the weight loss in the muffler makes up for some of the other stuff I've bolted on.
Correct, Tenere folks in your situation would need to add a piggy back fuel computer to your set up. Like a power commander. So folks can add a map to fix the wonky fuel. Most “ECU flash” don’t fix fueling issues. What your probably feeling is a big lean spot in the factory ECU, and with your mods you feel it more, it’s more apparent.
There is much more to write, but adding the PC has many other benefits.
 

~TABASCO~

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Well that answers that . . . . OE for me it is.

Typically (with this bike) it would be this order:

-Arrow Header
-Muffler
-PCV (power commander) to fix the wonky fuel map from the factory. This on its own is a great combo of parts
-Adjust the TB (turn out)






Then if people want more then take these steps:

-ECU flash from a reputable tuner shop that uses a DYNO
-UNI foam filters
-Performance spark plugs
-Barnett pressure plate
-Air box mod
-And at this step a different PCV map to sharpen up the fuel map


Only by reading the forum for years, I get the feeling that many people are misinformed on the ECU flash, and thinking this is a 'cure all' for the owners bike issues it might have. To make this short- think about it like this....... PCV is for all the fueling that needs to be sorted out that the factory is required to ship stock. The flash is (typically- depending on who's flash is providing the software- NOT ALL FLASH PROVIDERS, PROVIDE THE SAME FLASH SOFTWARE) controls (MANY things) the ignition timing, curves, Etc. Ive had the opportunity to ride MANY bikes with MANY different "ECU Flashes". It truly is amazing the difference in so many of these "Flashes". I always relied on the ECUnleashed Flash. I always felt we got the best DYNO results with this flash. Im not sure they are in business any longer but there are performance shops that do good work and can dial in what you currently have.
 

03A3KRH

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Hey Tobasco, any idea what improvements in performance a simple de-catting of the stock setup makes?
 

~TABASCO~

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Hey Tobasco, any idea what improvements in performance a simple de-catting of the stock setup makes?
Everything stock ? It does make a small difference on a totally stock bike. If you have a 12-13 along with clutch jumper these two things are ‘noticeable’. But- after a day or two of riding you will be use to the difference and already forget the ‘difference’. If you have a 14+ bike and everything is stock I would just leave it alone probably.
I can’t believe I’m saying leave it along coming from my 100 year back ground. LOL
 

Streethawk

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Thanks for all the input folks,I think I’ll keep the stock exhaust and headders.
I had my ecu flashed by Nels at 2 Wheel Dyno Works. Wasn't chasing hp, just smoothness but dammit, my butt dyno definitely feels some extra hp uncorked! Exhaust is stock. Was going to get a slip on exhaust but decided I'm too lazy to keep up with repacking. Plus my inner tree hugger wants to pollute as little as possible ;-) Imho, the flash is WELL worth the money. Adds a little more character too. 2 Wheel Dyno Works will also restore the ecu back to stock if you hate it (at no extra charge).
 

MattR

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When I get a new bike I start by ECU flashing them on the Dyno. ECus control fuel and ignition mapping for each individual gear which is something PCV cannot do. A correctly flashed ecu on a Dyno will sort out all of your fuelling problems and make the bike ride how it was designed to ride


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