Airscrew Adjustment to fix off-idle stumble and Throttle Body Sync - w/ pigtails

[Dallara]

Re: Re: Airscrew Adjustment to fix off-idle stumble and Throttle Body Sync - w/ pigtails

I read it in a post from Blue-eyes. My bike is South African spec and it's also 3/4 out (verified by me)...the SA spec bikes pretty much mirror the settings on the Euro Spec bikes...in fact, I'm still not sure what makes the two specs differenct :-\

The South African ones are probably a bit less arrogant and/or petulant, no doubt are a lot less finicky, are a lot more fun to be around, most likely a bit tougher, and certainly have to have a different accent... O


::015::



Dallara





(just kidding)

~

 

[tc9988]

Hello ,I am writing from Italy and I apologize for my english.I would like to ask you ,when you have syncronized the trottle body,have you cheked the levels of depression with a good instrument?Because the service manual says that the levels could be between 26,5 and 29,5 cm hg and after having unscrewed of 270° what are the values? Then I inform you that when the bike have runned for 20000 km you need to clean the throttle body before make alignment . Regards from Italy

OK since no EU bankers were involved we have credible information that the stock EU and SA standard air screw is 270 degrees out from the seated position. Now, Giovanni in his post above references a vacuum value he got from the service manual. Has anybody else seen the same information in the manual . I have a copy of the EU manual and can't find it.

 

[Blue_eyes]

OK since no EU bankers were involved we have credible information that the stock EU and SA standard air screw is 270 degrees out from the seated position. Now, Giovanni in his post above references a vacuum value he got from the service manual. Has anybody else seen the same information in the manual . I have a copy of the EU manual and can't find it.

Now I am declared credible, I will provide you with proof that you cannot read. )

Page 2-8 of the EU service manual states:

Now, who you're gonna believe...? ::025:: ::003::

::021::

 

[fredz43]

The only thing I have found in the USA manual is on page 3-9 and it says that when balancing, the difference should not exceed 1.33 KPA or 10 mmHg.

Which brings up another question. I have ordered a Harmonizer to replace my Twinmax. The Harmonizer references mbars, or some such, I believe. What is the conversion from that to mmHg or is it the same?

Thanks

 

[fredz43]

Now I am declared credible, I will provide you with proof that you cannot read. )

Page 2-8 of the EU service manual states:

Now, who you're gonna believe...? ::025::

::021::

Ah, that is also on page 2-8 of the US service manual. Thank you.

 

[Blue_eyes]

The only thing I have found in the USA manual is on page 3-9 and it says that when balancing, the difference should not exceed 1.33 KPA or 10 mmHg.

Which brings up another question. I have ordered a Harmonizer to replace my Twinmax. The Harmonizer references mbars, or some such, I believe. What is the conversion from that to mmHg or is it the same?

Thanks

Try this: http://www.qooqle.nl/?q=mbar+mmhg

 

[tc9988]

Now I am declared credible, I will provide you with proof that you cannot read. )

Page 2-8 of the EU service manual states:

Now, who you're gonna believe...? ::025:: ::003::

::021::

can't hear, can't see, can't read and that's just the beginning. how I don't love getting old. At least I can still ride............ if I can remember where I parked the bike :

 

[Blue_eyes]

can't hear, can't see, can't read and that's just the beginning. how I don't love getting old. At least I can still ride............ if I can remember where I parked the bike :

Hey Elwood, if you're this cool...

Who needs to read, write, hear or see..?

Just being cool and riding an XT1200Z.... what can beat that! 8)

Mods to achieve the ultracool: http://www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/costume/ ::008::

 

[tomatocity]

The only thing I have found in the USA manual is on page 3-9 and it says that when balancing, the difference should not exceed 1.33 KPA or 10 mmHg.

Which brings up another question. I have ordered a Harmonizer to replace my Twinmax. The Harmonizer references mbars, or some such, I believe. What is the conversion from that to mmHg or is it the same?

Thanks

http://www.vacuum-guide.com/english/equipment/calculatorpressure.htm

 

[fredz43]

Thank you Blue Eyes and Tim. So I have learned that the allowed 10 mm HG is 13.3 millibar. As soon as my Harmonizer arrives I'll find out how close I came with the 0 reading on my Twinmax.

 

[tomatocity]

Thank you Blue Eyes and Tim. So I have learned that the allowed 10 mm HG is 13.3 millibar. As soon as my Harmonizer arrives I'll find out how close I came with the 0 reading on my Twinmax.

I would be interested in your final settings.

 

[fredz43]

Yeah, right now I am at 1/4 turn out on the right and balanced the left to that at about 1/2 turn out. Starting with 3/4 turn on the right and balancing the left to that didn't work well for me. For the first time in over 5,000 miles it lost a bit rolling off from closed throttle and it died for me at a stop. Never did that before, so I closed the right 1/2 turn, down to 1/4 and rebalanced and it is better. I think the Harmonizer should be easier to read than the bouncing needle of the twinmax, even with the sensitivity turned down. This with an Akra can.

 

[tomatocity]

Yeah, right now I am at 1/4 turn out on the right and balanced the left to that at about 1/2 turn out. Starting with 3/4 turn on the right and balancing the left to that didn't work well for me. For the first time in over 5,000 miles it lost a bit rolling off from closed throttle and it died for me at a stop. Never did that before, so I closed the right 1/2 turn, down to 1/4 and rebalanced and it is better. I think the Harmonizer should be easier to read than the bouncing needle of the twinmax, even with the sensitivity turned down. This with an Akra can.

Make sure the vacuum cap (right side) is sealed properly. I am installing an aftermarket vacuum cap.

 

[fredz43]

Make sure the vacuum cap (right side) is sealed properly. I am installing an aftermarket vacuum cap.

You know, Tim, I was just thinking about that. During my test ride after doing the initial balance with the right set at 3/4 I stopped at an O'Reilly auto parts store and got some heavy duty vacuum caps as I hadn't been satisfied with how the OEM one fit over the right TB port. Right after I left the store is when the bike died at a stop. When I got home, I did the rebalance with the right set at 1/4 and balancing the left to that, then installed the aftermarket cap, which fit much better. When the Harmonizer gets here, I will start over with the right set at 3/4 and the new cap and see how it does.

Thanks for the suggestion. It has already been done.

 

[colorider]

When the Harmonizer gets here, I will start over with the right set at 3/4 and the new cap and see how it does.

Hmmmm, do you think the RH cap was causing the problem and thus your decision to go back to 3/4 turn again? I'm still not convinced that the 3/4 turn is correct for the 49 state bikes, especially at higher elevations like Colorado (~5K feet).

Let me know how it works and if you see an improvement from 1/4 turn to 3/4 turn.

Thanks,
Rod

 

[jozmoto]

I'm still not convinced that the 3/4 turn is correct for the 49 state bikes, especially at higher elevations like Colorado (~5K feet).

I had returned mine to 0 turns out and immediately noticed the off idle lag but left it that way for a week or so. I return to 3/4 turns out and am convinced it is better and have left it that way. As you know, this is at 6-10k feet. I have never had the bike below 5k. Since all the Air Screw and CO fussing, I stepped up to a PCV to go with the Arrow/Akra combo and the bike runs really good. More powerful and no throttle lag off idle. Very fun to ride in town since it pulls really strong from 3-5k rpm.

 

[fredz43]

Hmmmm, do you think the RH cap was causing the problem and thus your decision to go back to 3/4 turn again? I'm still not convinced that the 3/4 turn is correct for the 49 state bikes, especially at higher elevations like Colorado (~5K feet).

Let me know how it works and if you see an improvement from 1/4 turn to 3/4 turn.

Thanks,
Rod

Hi Rod,

I just thought that the OEM vacuum cap, which isn't very robust may have had an influence, so when I get a more accurate instrument, the Harmonizer, I would first check it where I have it set and then try the 3/4 turn out setting. For the record, my stock bike never had a lag off idle and never died at a stop. It did both of those things with my initial 3/4 setting and my Akra can.

Also, after doing this a couple times, I found that I can do a TBS in about 15 minutes, so it is interesting to experiment and see the results. I have the SW-Motech crash bars and have figured out a shortcut so that I don't have to remove the left side cover, just a few screws, so that makes it pretty easy.

 

[colorider]

Hi Rod,

I just thought that the OEM vacuum cap, which isn't very robust may have had an influence, so when I get a more accurate instrument, the Harmonizer, I would first check it where I have it set and then try the 3/4 turn out setting. For the record, my stock bike never had a lag off idle and never died at a stop. It did both of those things with my initial 3/4 setting and my Akra can.

Also, after doing this a couple times, I found that I can do a TBS in about 15 minutes, so it is interesting to experiment and see the results. I have the SW-Motech crash bars and have figured out a shortcut so that I don't have to remove the left side cover, just a few screws, so that makes it pretty easy.

I'm at 3/4 out and balanced with a Harmonizer. I had some significant stumble/etc for a while, but I think it was caused by leaving the extension hoses on after the TBS and/or possibly a slight leak. I'm still not sure it is that much better and would like to try it at the 1/4 setting, once it warms up a bit. I still do not have a good system for attaching/removing the extensions. Removing the LH panel is not difficult, even with the Givi bars. It's just finding the room to access the fittings under the tank that is tricky for me.

Thanks,
Rod

 

[fredz43]

I raise the tank and have plenty of room to work. My shortcut amounts to replacing the left side allen head tank bolt with a hex head bolt. Then I just have to remove a few screws on the left panel, reach in with my 10mm gear wrench and back out the left side tank bolt. Once I have the tank up I can get to everything for fitting the hoses and making my adjustments. I don't leave any extensions, etc on after I am finished.

 

[colorider]

I raise the tank and have plenty of room to work. Once I have the tank up I can get to everything for fitting the hoses and making my adjustments.

You must release the vent hoses from the clamps under the tank to raise it enough to reach, otherwise (at least on mine) the tank can only be raised about 1 to 1 1/2". Not enough to get in to hook up the TBS hoses.