Adjusting some valves, quick question..

[~TABASCO~]

Hey guys.. just need someone to check my work, make sure I understand correctly

The intakes are in spec,.....



The exhaust are as follows... (L-R)

pad - 202
it measured before pulling the cams .178
with the thought that the goal is .26
the number I got for the new pad is 194
I think I should round to 195 ?




pad - 204
it measured .152
goal .26
new pad 193
I should round to 190 ?



pad - 204
it measured .178
goal .26
new pad 196
I should round to 195 ?




pad - 200
it measured .178
goal .26
new pad 192
I should round to 190 ?




Thanks

 

[~TABASCO~]

anyone ?

 

[Checkswrecks]

Jaxon -
I can look when I get a few minutes but it may not be for a day or two. I answered somebody else's valve adjustment post a month or so ago and the shim sizes are in that post.

 

[~TABASCO~]

Thanks... I think im correct, I just want someone to confirm im on the right track.. I would have though someone would have memorized the formula down in there head.. ::013::
Ill go search and see if I can find your post last month.. Thanks


Anyone confirm my numbers let me know

 

[markjenn]

All look right to me except the 2nd.... Yamaha says that if the required pad ends in "3", you should round to "5", so according to the book, you should use a 195 pad rather than 190. Everything else looks spot on. (While I have done quite a number of shim adjustments on various bikes, I cleverly sold my S10 right before the first valve adjustment, so take this for whatever you feel it is worth.)

As an aside, I have always preferred to use metric feeler gauges so you don't end up dealing with odd round-off errors... for example, you are probably measuring .007" to convert this to .178 mm, but if you used metric gauges, you might actually decide it is closer to .17mm. The granularity of thousandth-inch feeler gauges is pretty coarse (.0254mm) when you are trying to decide between shims that only come in .05mm gradations.

- Mark

 

[Doug C]

from the manual the range of clearance for the ex valves is .22-.28 mm measured value minus desired value for #1 is .178-.28=-.102mm existing shim 2.02mm-.102mm=1.918mm or 192 shim for round off last digit 1-2 down to 0 so this would be a 190 shim. Using .26mm as desired value end up with 194 shim rounded up to 195
#2 .152-.28=.128 2.04-.128=1.91 or 191 round down to 190 using.26 as desired value ends up with 193 shim rounded up to 195
#3 .178-.28=.102 2.04-.102=1.94 round up to 195 shim
#4 .178-.28=.102 2.00-.102= 1.898 round up to 190 shim
As the clearances get smaller with time use the thinner shim to get closest to higher range required.
Doug

 

[markjenn]

Probably not critical, but I'd aim for somewhere in the middle of the range as a target during calculations, not one extreme. For exhaust, .26 looks like a good target to me, or maybe even .25 which is right in the middle. If you aim for .28 (upper limit), any buildup of tolerances could leave you out of spec too wide during final clearance check. The problem is that you're dealing with .05 gradations in shims while trying to hit a window that is only .06 mm wide. There is only one shim that is likely to end up within this window - aiming for one end of this window is much more likely to end up outside it than aiming for the middle. That's why following Yamaha's math and rounding convention in the manual is a good idea. If you measure carefully (and use metric feelers), you should be assured of being within spec when you're done.

- Mark

 

[Kevhunts]

anyone ?

General Valve Adjustment Math Example

Check existing clearances and record for each valve.

Cyl 1. Intake1_.08mm____ Exhaust1_______

Cyl 1. Intake2_______ Exhaust2________

Measure shim on valve that is out of adjustment. (2.45mm)
Add that number to the initial lash measurement. (2.45 + .08 = 2.53mm)

Target clearance is going to be the wider of the spec. (.10 -.15) .15 is the target.

(2.53 - .15 = 2.38mm) round up if the number doesn't end in a 0 or 5. (2.40mm)

2.40mm shim will give you .13mm of clearance in the end.

 

[itlives]

At one point, I thought I might try this myself. Now, I think that would be a bad idea.....

 

[tomatocity]

I can do KLR valves all day every day... don't understand what you are talking about.

Are you planning on taking over the world

Are the shims marked with the thickness (2.50, 2.45, 2.40, 2.35, ? If so, why do you measure them.

I always try to get the most clearance without exceeding the maximum. Is this wrong?

If I could see better in dark spaces I would try to adjust the Tenere valves but... I will continue to through money at the service department.

 

[markjenn]

Are the shims marked with the thickness (2.50, 2.45, 2.40, 2.35, ? If so, why do you measure them.

Some, the marks are missing or illegible. There have been a few cases of them being mismarked. Some mechanics are proponents of sanding the shim to a custom size, so if you're using anything but just-bought shims, you could get caught by this. But if you don't have a micrometer or don't want to bother, it's a small risk (and the problem should be caught when you do the final clearance check).

I always try to get the most clearance without exceeding the maximum. Is this wrong?

No, but in the case of the S10, you seldom have much flexibility to get towards the upper end of a 0.06mm range when the shims steps are 0.05mm.

- Mark