ABS module

EricV

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The ABS ECU or the pump? Pumps/Valve block have been replaced. Stupid expensive, so used or do a bypass with hoses.

ECU, I don't recall anyone discussing that in the last decade or so, but perhaps.

What happened? Or what/who is suggesting that you need to replace the ABS ECU?
 

RCinNC

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The pump goes for $1210.86 at Rocky Mountain ATV. I didn't see a separate ABS ECU listed, but the ECU also lists for $1200.
 

EricV

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There is a pump on ebay for ~$700. Partshark has the ECU for 1100 and change, and as RC said, same for the ABS pump/Valve block.

It's the ES units that have a second ECU for the suspension, so no ABS ECU.
 

hodee

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I’m hoping it’s just the wheel sensors, but not likely they both went out at the same time. I have no Unified braking, no ABS, no speedometer or odometer. Code 69 and 42 on a gen 1. Any guesses?
 

hodee

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I would love to bypass ABS forever if I can get my UBS to work! Anybody know if this is possible? How?
 

EricV

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You have an electrical issue, not a mechanical issue if you have no speedo/odo. That means for some reason there is no speed signal, which is one wire. Did you disconnect the ECU plug and inspect it, clean it and reinstall to make sure it's fully seated and no pins are loose/damaged? As I recall, you said the bike had been flashed, which means the ECU has been out before. This is the prime suspect right now.

Un-related, yes I believe you can bypass the ABS and keep the UBS. UBS is a mechanical function for the most part with a proportioning valve, but I don't recall if the proportioning vavle gets electronic input.

Right now is not the time to worry about that until you find out where your electrical fault is. There are only a few places where the speed signal can easily be tapped, coming out of the ECU it's a blue wire, but IIRC, there is also a grey wire accessible down on the right side of the bike under the access panel. Searching on Speedohealer install in the forum should find some info.

I no longer have a factory service manual, so can't verify the codes for you.

Code 69 - LINK

How to enter the Diagnostic process on the bike and clear codes, and what codes are. LINK

Code 42 is no or faulty speed signal.
 

Drif10

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KISS principle.

Check your front and rear wheel speed sensors. Check the cabling for them. It's more likely that they're the source of your problem, as they're exposed to physical damage from a rock flying up, and getting forced past them by the spinning wheel.
 

WJBertrand

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I think the linked brakes are all electronically controlled though. If you look at Honda ST linked brake system, it's completely hydraulic and does not interface with the ABS. There are a lot of extra lines and components including, two modulators (front and rear), compared to the Super Tenere. You could also buy that bike with or without ABS and still have the linked brakes. It seems from the owner's manual description that the Super Tenere's brakes are being electronically linked based on how it decides which brakes to apply. For example stepping on the rear brake alone, applies no braking to the front, but if you use both brakes there's linkage both ways.
 

SilverBullet

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I’m hoping it’s just the wheel sensors, but not likely they both went out at the same time. I have no Unified braking, no ABS, no speedometer or odometer. Code 69 and 42 on a gen 1. Any guesses?
Blown ABS fuse maybe. I seem to remember that fuse knocking out the speedo also.
 

hodee

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Thanks for the replies, trying to avoid a $1200 ABS pump/sensor. This occurred while riding, a good 400 miles beyond the reflash and headlight harness warranty work. Both wheel sensors were removed and inspected but did not trace the wire very far. I’ll give that a look over and report back
 

EricV

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I keep asking if you checked/cleaned the ECU plugs... and you still haven't responded. That is the single most likely issue since you know it was unplugged when the ECU was flashed.

You have no RSS signal, that's why you have no speedo/tach. You previously said you didn't have a Speedo Healer. Sorry, I don't remember if you've owned the bike from new. If not, it's possible a Speedo Healer was once installed. That install requires cutting the RSS wire. If that wire comes loose, you instantly lose speedo/tach and get a bunch of dash lights, etc. I know, because I've had it happen in the middle of no where Wyoming. But, since I did the install of the Speedohealer, I knew where that wire had been cut and was able to simply repair it. A short ride around the parking lot of an empty gas station and all was working again. In my case, the 50 mph cross winds literally blew the connector apart, causing my issue.

The point here is that 90% of the time a problem is directly related to what we have previously done to the bike.

You either have a loose RSS signal wire or a bad connection at the ECU. Although the ABS fuse was a good suggestion too, and THERE IS MORE THAN ONE ABS FUSE.
 

hodee

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I keep asking if you checked/cleaned the ECU plugs... and you still haven't responded. That is the single most likely issue since you know it was unplugged when the ECU was flashed.

You have no RSS signal, that's why you have no speedo/tach. You previously said you didn't have a Speedo Healer. Sorry, I don't remember if you've owned the bike from new. If not, it's possible a Speedo Healer was once installed. That install requires cutting the RSS wire. If that wire comes loose, you instantly lose speedo/tach and get a bunch of dash lights, etc. I know, because I've had it happen in the middle of no where Wyoming. But, since I did the install of the Speedohealer, I knew where that wire had been cut and was able to simply repair it. A short ride around the parking lot of an empty gas station and all was working again. In my case, the 50 mph cross winds literally blew the connector apart, causing my issue.

The point here is that 90% of the time a problem is directly related to what we have previously done to the bike.

You either have a loose RSS signal wire or a bad connection at the ECU. Although the ABS fuse was a good suggestion too, and THERE IS MORE THAN ONE ABS FUSE.
Sorry Eric, I thought I posted a response. Yes, both ECU connections were undone and reconnected. Extremely clean in there with no bent pins etc. I am second owner from just 4K miles and am confident no speedo healer installed. And yes both ABS fuses checked. Can you explain the RSS wire color and location? Thank you immensely for your knowledge and replies.
 

Doug C

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My manual indicates code 42 is a rear wheel speed sensor fault and 69 is front wheel speed sensor. The trouble shooting steps indicated are to confirm a signal is being sent using the diagnostic mode code d:07 for the rear wheel rotate the wheel by hand and see that they number increases d:16 is diagnostic code for front wheel.
Also confirmation of correct operation of clutch switch and neutral switch are mentioned.
There is several more steps of troubleshooting to confirm the fault but you would need access to a service manual to lead you through. Anyone near you with a manual?
 

hodee

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My manual indicates code 42 is a rear wheel speed sensor fault and 69 is front wheel speed sensor. The trouble shooting steps indicated are to confirm a signal is being sent using the diagnostic mode code d:07 for the rear wheel rotate the wheel by hand and see that they number increases d:16 is diagnostic code for front wheel.
Also confirmation of correct operation of clutch switch and neutral switch are mentioned.
There is several more steps of troubleshooting to confirm the fault but you would need access to a service manual to lead you through. Anyone near you with a manual?
Thanks. I have dealer nearby but they had to order the correct diagnostic plug in. I’m investigating the problem at home while the dealer waits for the plug to arrive. Did you have these issues and solve them? Or just going off a manual info? Thanks.
 

EricV

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Thank you for the response. If you have a pre-17 bike, you don't need the dealer or a diagnostic plug to access the onboard diagnostic system and read codes, delete codes, etc. I linked to a walk thru above. I've accessed my diagnostics in the past and it's not that hard to do. That the dealer only wants to plug your bike in to their computer is suspect, to me. If they read the FSM they would know how to access the codes with just the bike. I haven't done it in a long time, so I can't be more helpful. It should be searchable here on the forum.

I no longer have a S10 or the FSM. The problem could possibly be from the wheel sensors to the ECU, but since you appear to be getting codes for both wheels, it may be on the other side of the ECU. If you clear the codes yourself and they are no longer a problem, that's fine. If you clear the codes yourself and they are still a problem, they will just come back in short order, so still be there for the dealer to see. Sometimes it takes clearing the codes to get things back to normal.

The various Speedohealer or Healtech threads here will show different points where you can access the RSS wire with the speed pickup from the ECU. The other product using this was the Healtech Gear Indicator, if I recall correctly. I had both on my '12.
 

hodee

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Thank you for the response. If you have a pre-17 bike, you don't need the dealer or a diagnostic plug to access the onboard diagnostic system and read codes, delete codes, etc. I linked to a walk thru above. I've accessed my diagnostics in the past and it's not that hard to do. That the dealer only wants to plug your bike in to their computer is suspect, to me. If they read the FSM they would know how to access the codes with just the bike. I haven't done it in a long time, so I can't be more helpful. It should be searchable here on the forum.

I no longer have a S10 or the FSM. The problem could possibly be from the wheel sensors to the ECU, but since you appear to be getting codes for both wheels, it may be on the other side of the ECU. If you clear the codes yourself and they are no longer a problem, that's fine. If you clear the codes yourself and they are still a problem, they will just come back in short order, so still be there for the dealer to see. Sometimes it takes clearing the codes to get things back to normal.

The various Speedohealer or Healtech threads here will show different points where you can access the RSS wire with the speed pickup from the ECU. The other product using this was the Healtech Gear Indicator, if I recall correctly. I had both on my '12.
Thanks again Eric, lots of help. But I don’t see the link to do my own fault deletions. Cheers
 
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