Why doesn't Motul recommend full synthetic for the SuperTen?

The Mountain

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If I go to the Motul website, and use their product recommendation wizard to find the right oil for my bike, it presents the 5100 synthetic blend oil. It doesn't even suggest the 7100 synthetic as an alternative. Anyone know why?
 

Checkswrecks

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You'd need to ask Motul but my guess is it's because we are a very low volume production bike.

The Owners Manual calls for JASO MA or API SG or higher for the engine/trans

The rear takes SAE 80 API GL-5 or SAE 80 API GL-4 Hypoid gear oil.
 
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McJeep

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'Been running the 5100 for over 20 years with good results - just can't justify double the price (yup, Scottish heritage) when I'm not racing the thing ;)
 
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MFP

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If I go to the Motul website, and use their product recommendation wizard to find the right oil for my bike, it presents the 5100 synthetic blend oil. It doesn't even suggest the 7100 synthetic as an alternative. Anyone know why?
I have only used MOTUL 7100 4T 10W40 in my '13 S10 since I picked it up in June ‘18 and I have been very happy with this particular synth oil’s performance.
It is a bit pricey at around $16/17 a quart but my S10 is worth it…. :cool:
 
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ballisticexchris

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I have only used MOTUL 7100 4T 10W40 in my '13 S10 since I picked it up in June ‘18 and I have been very happy with this particular synth oil’s performance.
It is a bit pricey at around $16/17 a quart but my S10 is worth it…. :cool:
+ 1 on the 7100 since engine was broken in. The shifting was night and day difference from the 5100 I used in the previous oil change. One thing I am very serious about on all my vehicles and motors is the oil quality.
 
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MFP

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+ 1 on the 7100 since engine was broken in. The shifting was night and day difference from the 5100 I used in the previous oil change. One thing I am very serious about on all my vehicles and motors is the oil quality.
I am with you on the shifting improving noticeably! I also notice that the engine runs a bit cooler especially in the
hot weather months during typical NYC stop-and-go traffic.
 

fac191

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I have posted this before but didn't get a reply. I read on here in an oil thread lol that semi synth is reccommended because it suspends the dirty particles better enabling the oil filter to catch them. Has anyone got any views on this. I ask as i would use fully synth if it gives better gear changes.
 

Jlq1969

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I have posted this before but didn't get a reply. I read on here in an oil thread lol that semi synth is reccommended because it suspends the dirty particles better enabling the oil filter to catch them. Has anyone got any views on this. I ask as i would use fully synth if it gives better gear changes.
Precisely, the idea of a synthetic oil, rather than improving lubrication, is that its aggregates control the acids that are produced in combustion, and its detersive agents keep the particles in suspension, to prevent them from precipitating and forming "mud" in the oil pan. Therefore, synthetics have the possibility of being used for a longer time, "because their additives that control acids and mud", take "a little more time to degrade" ... TBN (which is the ability to control acids) ..... and the 7100 has very good alkaline reserve values (perhaps due to the fact that it is an ester) ... other synthetic oils, but with PAO technology ... they have less TBN, that is, they are synthetic but of lower quality . MINERAL <SEMI<SINTHETYC .... PAO < ESTER
with use, rather than losing their lubricating capabilities, what lubricants lose are their acid control additives. Lubricants have an "alkaline reserve", which is used to control the "acids" ... until that alkaline reserve is exhausted. after this .... the lubricant will continue to "lubricate" ..... but it will no longer control the acids
a damage by combustion acid, it looks more or less like this:DE5E3C51-A0C9-4214-9355-C5D3C2F1BE5E.jpeg8F3C0AAD-0260-4162-8D39-2042C3BE691D.jpeg1CF687F9-27C5-4A10-81F1-FF25BCF29FF1.jpeg58A66C6D-7807-4EDD-AE6E-B03BACD66A80.jpeg0B4735D9-1A5E-405A-9D5A-FDDA80916B9B.jpeg
 
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SeaBass

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I have only used MOTUL 7100 4T 10W40 in my '13 S10 since I picked it up in June ‘18 and I have been very happy with this particular synth oil’s performance.
It is a bit pricey at around $16/17 a quart but my S10 is worth it…. :cool:
I started with Yamalube when I bought my S10 back in Aug 2019 from a fellow Instructor. Third oil change went for the 7100 and immediately felt an improvement on the shifting. It did mute up some of the engine noise as well, now it sounds like a brand new tractor, not an used tractor. lol.

I'm on my 3rd oil change with it and loving it.
 
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fac191

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Precisely, the idea of a synthetic oil, rather than improving lubrication, is that its aggregates control the acids that are produced in combustion, and its detersive agents keep the particles in suspension, to prevent them from precipitating and forming "mud" in the oil pan. Therefore, synthetics have the possibility of being used for a longer time, "because their additives that control acids and mud", take "a little more time to degrade" ... TBN (which is the ability to control acids) ..... and the 7100 has very good alkaline reserve values (perhaps due to the fact that it is an ester) ... other synthetic oils, but with PAO technology ... they have less TBN, that is, they are synthetic but of lower quality . MINERAL <SEMI<SINTHETYC .... PAO < ESTER
with use, rather than losing their lubricating capabilities, what lubricants lose are their acid control additives. Lubricants have an "alkaline reserve", which is used to control the "acids" ... until that alkaline reserve is exhausted. after this .... the lubricant will continue to "lubricate" ..... but it will no longer control the acids
a damage by combustion acid, it looks more or less like this:View attachment 80298View attachment 80299View attachment 80300View attachment 80301View attachment 80302
Thanks for the explanations.
 

Squibb

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My local dealer always uses Yamalube semi-synthetic on both my Yamahas, as one might expect.

They reckon the clutch may not appreciate a fully synthetic oil, but I wonder whether this is actually the issue; rather it is the need to avoid FS oils intended for cars with a dry clutch/auto trans, such as Mobil 1.
 

WJBertrand

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I think there are plenty of us, myself included, using fully synthetic motorcycle oil (Castrol Power 4T 10w-50 in my case) with no adverse clutch behavior. How does one determine what brand is made from PA0 vs. ester base stocks. Most bottles of oil don't disclose that information in my experience.
 

Jlq1969

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I think there are plenty of us, myself included, using fully synthetic motorcycle oil (Castrol Power 4T 10w-50 in my case) with no adverse clutch behavior. How does one determine what brand is made from PA0 vs. ester base stocks. Most bottles of oil don't disclose that information in my experience.
the synthetic lubricants that "do not clarify anything" .... are PAO .... The synthetic lubricants that have this manufacturing process say "ESTER”
 
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