What you did to your Tenere today??!!

[mybackhurts]

just to say as well theres a member on here that after be used the AS3 silicone hoses and wasn,t happy he had a few issues, but my SAMCO ones
have been on more thatn the oem ones were and have been good

Silicone hoses are cool man.
Fuck the haters. I'm too broke rn tho. Outlook not good with current...stuff :/

 

[Huck]

Better feel. Better control.

Off-The-Road Clutch slave cylinder for lighter clutch lever pull - Install | Yamaha Super Tenere Forum

peeps are saying you get a lighter pull on them I guess
Reading that thread, I see others are also rebuilding their OE units. so its Tech A and Tech B trying to have a pissing contest. Both probably help a little after a while

I just rebuilt my master at so I gotta decide which one (Tech) to agree with.
The piston didn't seem to have any wear, but the dust cover had been worn through. Didnt hurt to clean it either.
And getting the oil seals on is not easy. I tried using 35mm film and it didnt help, eventuallly had to kinda roll them up into position, but they look good. 2 of them to do.
The c clip is a bastard
Got dielectric grease in the switch
The copper pull holder, was kinda oblong and developed a lip from use which was odd.
Filed it back down and put it back.
Lithium grease on the boot to help it stay plyable
Speedbleeders on all 4 spots which was good money. Shouldnt see any more slave/bleeder screw weeps.
You open and close the bleeder screw 20 times every time you gotta bleed the thing, These are turn in, 1/4 turn out and 1/4 turn in. They should seal better.
They dont sell Maxima fluid at the store, so Ill order it the same time I get a slave rebuild kit, and front brake rebuild. Its a 10 year old bike afterall.
Got a 45 year old bike that works, they just require a little Love.

Theres no OE part number for a slave piston seal for sale. odd

 

[cyclemike4]

bike in for service, had plugs,air filter, oil filter, oil, drive shaft oil, bleed the clutch and brakes and cycled the abs unit,

Being a UK bike and the coil stick problem i was changing plugs every year to get the coil sticks in and out regular, that went on for awhile
but the last time i changed the plugs was 2020 sept, fluids done yearly, anyway the mechanic yesterday april 2025 said wow 4.5 years lets get in there to see the coil sticks are ok, i said go on then bear in mind we pulled the metal sleeves off 7 yrs ago so they can,t bind up with corrosion
well lets see he said, he works on 5 xt1200 regular as well
got into mine yesterday air box off and undid the bolts and he said f-ck me thats the best cleanest easiest coil stick removal he has done nearly 5 yrs lol. plugs were pretty good to the little bit of corrosion was on all 4 not just the left side plugs could of stayed in but put new in

also i have bleed the brake fluid every 14-16 months over the 11 yrs and cycled the abs pump it still perfect and cycles well

Rob
View attachment 120472View attachment 120473View attachment 120474View attachment 120475View attachment 120475

wow! that bike is even clean under the hood! I just did my valve check and adjustments and the triangled frame at the head stock and all down each side and the top of my motor had to be cleaned before i could take anything apart. Beautiful machine you have!

 

[Drif10]

Oil and filter, another rear tire. Second one this year.

 

[mybackhurts]

Off-The-Road Clutch slave cylinder for lighter clutch lever pull - Install | Yamaha Super Tenere Forum

peeps are saying you get a lighter pull on them I guess
Reading that thread, I see others are also rebuilding their OE units. so its Tech A and Tech B trying to have a pissing contest. Both probably help a little after a while

I just rebuilt my master at so I gotta decide which one (Tech) to agree with.
The piston didn't seem to have any wear, but the dust cover had been worn through. Didnt hurt to clean it either.
And getting the oil seals on is not easy. I tried using 35mm film and it didnt help, eventuallly had to kinda roll them up into position, but they look good. 2 of them to do.
The c clip is a bastard
Got dielectric grease in the switch
The copper pull holder, was kinda oblong and developed a lip from use which was odd.
Filed it back down and put it back.
Lithium grease on the boot to help it stay plyable
Speedbleeders on all 4 spots which was good money. Shouldnt see any more slave/bleeder screw weeps.
You open and close the bleeder screw 20 times every time you gotta bleed the thing, These are turn in, 1/4 turn out and 1/4 turn in. They should seal better.
They dont sell Maxima fluid at the store, so Ill order it the same time I get a slave rebuild kit, and front brake rebuild. Its a 10 year old bike afterall.
Got a 45 year old bike that works, they just require a little Love.

Theres no OE part number for a slave piston seal for sale. odd

Mine was swapped on a new bike. Rebuild not needed. Just a crap design.

Saying we swapped it just for lighter feel is disingenuous and false. It about being able to feel the clutch grabbing.

OffTheRoad slave is worth it.

 

[cyclemike4]

Here in KY we are dealing with a history making flood breaking high water levels all over the state. Riding home from work Saturday the bike was running fine. Saying it was a frog strangler wouldnt even describe the rain. Sunday morning took off to work and the Super T was missing bad. Went back got the DR650 and rode it. Today i started on the Super T. I had two plug wells with water over the plugs and i could see evidence of water ingress into the air box. The air filter still had water on it. Looked like water was pushed up the tiny drain hole on the left bottom of the box! The only water on the roads for me was only about rim deep. I had one plug get water in it back at about the 100,000 mile mark so i decided to try an experiment and silicone the boot on the ignition coil. Worked perfectly so i did them all!

 

[cyclemike4]

Well the bike was running but not quite right. So i had some cheap coils on hand so i took it apart and put them on the bike last night. Rode it today about 65 miles taking care of things and now it pulls off from a start better than it ever has. It cooled down into the upper 20s and low 30s this morning and it always ran better in cold weather but i like what i felt today! The only difference i could see with these coils is they snap onto the plug top with a solid push. If you put a plug in the originals they just fall right back out. Always been that way so never thought it was a problem but i always wondered about it. Right now i love the way it sounds and runs!

 

[Tenforeplay]

Left the kickstand down when I put it in gear. Instant kill. Okay no problem. Wouldn’t start. Tried twice and and no start. Thought this must be the dreaded no start everyone is talking about. So let her sit a few minutes and get her thoughts together and decide what she is going to do, let the earth rotate a few degrees and get out of that bad spot. Two more times and wouldn’t start. I do have the lithium battery btw.

I did notice when the switch was released it would try to fire but still no go. So we will give the open throttle trick a try. She woke up on this one and roared to life up to 4-5k rpm before I could shut her down.

Starts fine now.

 

[Matt51F1]

Left the kickstand down when I put it in gear. Instant kill. Okay no problem. Wouldn’t start. Tried twice and and no start. Thought this must be the dreaded no start everyone is talking about. So let her sit a few minutes and get her thoughts together and decide what she is going to do, let the earth rotate a few degrees and get out of that bad spot. Two more times and wouldn’t start. I do have the lithium battery btw.

I did notice when the switch was released it would try to fire but still no go. So we will give the open throttle trick a try. She woke up on this one and roared to life up to 4-5k rpm before I could shut her down.

Starts fine now.

I’ve noticed that as well. I rarely need WOT but it’s often enough to kick it in the guts.

 

[Sierra1]

I’ve noticed that as well. I rarely need WOT but it’s often enough to kick it in the guts.

Yeah, it doesn't make any sense to me, but it works. But mine has never done it in this type of circumstance. I use the kickstand as my off switch anyway. I only get the difficult start if I don't let it do it self-diagnostic thing. Or I don't hold the starter long enough to actually start. If I get that "cough", I know I screwed up.

 

[Tenforeplay]

I’ve noticed that as well. I rarely need WOT but it’s often enough to kick it in the guts.

This was first start with cold engine. Hot engine Ive restarted without problem.

 

[cyclemike4]

I have stalled my bike on a cold start early in the morning at my house before. It was still kicked up on high idle when it stalled. It didn't want to start and i opened the throttle just a bit and it cleared out and started. Just a note though these things don't open the throttle plates till it hits at least one time. If you can get a cylinder to half way fire enough to kick the bike over quicker it will open the plates then and clear itself out.

 

[ErictheBiking]

New tyre going on so put some 70% Moly on the driveshaft splines.
I've never serviced a driveshaft on another make of bike, but I doubt many are as easy as this.

 

[cyclemike4]

Well the bike was running but not quite right. So i had some cheap coils on hand so i tookView attachment 120580 it apart and put them on the bike last night. Rode it today about 65 miles taking care of things and now it pulls off from a start better than it ever has. It cooled down into the upper 20s and low 30s this morning and it always ran better in cold weather but i like what i felt today! The only difference i could see with these coils is they snap onto the plug top with a solid push. If you put a plug in the originals they just fall right back out. Always been that way so never thought it was a problem but i always wondered about it. Right now i love the way it sounds and runs!

A small update on the coils. It have put a few hundred miles on the new coils and i can say that the bike has not responded or ran this good since it was new. I would have never suspected bad coils. the plugs always looked good.

 

[Jiivee]

Pit stop and change slicks... at the same time, a little tinkering with the brakes.

 

[cyclemike4]

All my bikes at about 10 years old turn into broken stripped and stuck bolt piles. Even though my super t is a 2012 i didnt buy it till almost 2014. A little over 10 years on it. Year round riding is hard on them. Such a shame my super t is running smoother and stronger than it ever has! I need to change the rear rotor and it has 4 stuck bolts. I broke every tool i have ever owned 4 times trying to get them out. Broke 6 torques bits and 3 impact drivers! No kidding that is correct. Well time to drill. Patients is the key. I decided to drill it on the bike so i could eyeball the bit with the rear axle to keep it straight. Two of the 4 stuck bolts have the torques bits still in them. I had to cut that out of the way to drill. Had time to drill one today. Perfect down the center. I have helicores ready in case things get ugly. I hope the next 3 go as good as this one. I dont want to rush this job so they will have to wait till some other time

 

[Matt51F1]

All my bikes at about 10 years old turn into broken stripped and stuck bolt piles. Even though my super t is a 2012 i didnt buy it till almost 2014. A little over 10 years on it. Year round riding is hard on them. Such a shame my super t is running smoother and stronger than it ever has! I need to change the rear rotor and it has 4 stuck bolts. I broke every tool i have ever owned 4 times trying to get them out. Broke 6 torques bits and 3 impact drivers! No kidding that is correct. Well time to drill. Patients is the key. I decided to drill it on the bike so i could eyeball the bit with the rear axle to keep it straight. Two of the 4 stuck bolts have the torques bits still in them. I had to cut that out of the way to drill. Had time to drill one today. Perfect down the center. I have helicores ready in case things get ugly. I hope the next 3 go as good as this one. I dont want to rush this job so they will have to wait till some other time

I’m stunned that they are frozen in there such that they’re breaking the bits to get them out. Normally, I would be slagging off at the apprentices in the bike shops who do bolts up WAY too tight- but this is on cars. Doing it on a bike usually strips threads out as it’s usually going into aluminium.

Just as a question, did you try a brass drift on the head of the bolt and give it a good smack with a hammer? That is often enough to cause a bolt to unfreeze.

 

[cyclemike4]

I’m stunned that they are frozen in there such that they’re breaking the bits to get them out. Normally, I would be slagging off at the apprentices in the bike shops who do bolts up WAY too tight- but this is on cars. Doing it on a bike usually strips threads out as it’s usually going into aluminium.

Just as a question, did you try a brass drift on the head of the bolt and give it a good smack with a hammer? That is often enough to cause a bolt to unfreeze.

Yes punches chissels heat you name it every avenue was driven down. I have a terrible time with bolts when the bikes get some years on them.

 

[StefanOnHisS10]

A small update on the coils. It have put a few hundred miles on the new coils and i can say that the bike has not responded or ran this good since it was new. I would have never suspected bad coils. the plugs always looked good.

Time to measure the resistance on the “old” coils and see what state they are. I am curious.

 

[Jiivee]

All my bikes at about 10 years old turn into broken stripped and stuck bolt piles. Even though my super t is a 2012 i didnt buy it till almost 2014. A little over 10 years on it. Year round riding is hard on them. Such a shame my super t is running smoother and stronger than it ever has! I need to change the rear rotor and it has 4 stuck bolts. I broke every tool i have ever owned 4 times trying to get them out. Broke 6 torques bits and 3 impact drivers! No kidding that is correct. Well time to drill. Patients is the key. I decided to drill it on the bike so i could eyeball the bit with the rear axle to keep it straight. Two of the 4 stuck bolts have the torques bits still in them. I had to cut that out of the way to drill. Had time to drill one today. Perfect down the center. I have helicores ready in case things get ugly. I hope the next 3 go as good as this one. I dont want to rush this job so they will have to wait till some other time

You made me cringe!
My 2014 rear rim is off the bike and I had to go right away to try and see if the bolts come out of mine... Luckily all the bolts came out easily in my case.

Cheers to you!