My last two oil changes with the SWM plate had major bashes, the last one partially crushed the filter. I did not even remember hitting anything. I've moved on to a Jaxon plate. Fortunately it doesn't have to be removed for an oil change, just a cover over the filter. SWM plates are good for dirt and gravel. If you ride on rocky trails, you need something better.
What you did to your Tenere today??!!
- Thread starter biting_point
- Start date
cyclemike4
Well-Known Member
The new filters are longer. I did have some dings in the pan but it was still not touching the old oil filter. I have always thought not having a real frame or at least a bolt on sub frame under these motors for some protection and having the oil filter in front was pretty short minded. I don't even like oil filters in front on pure street bikes.
cyclemike4
Well-Known Member
Oh I forgot to mention it took 4 quarts to fill it to the top line on the sight window. So I guess all the manuals will be wrong on the amount of oil needed for the change with the new filters.
Cycledude
Well-Known Member
Ride it for awhile then park in the same spot, your oil level wI’ll most likely be different
cyclemike4
Well-Known Member
yea my bike always shows fuller after it is ridden some so I took it up the road and back. It was still inside the lines but very close to the bottom line. My bike when it gets colder will have the oil light come on at start up if it is not very near the top line.
14kmtnman
Well-Known Member
After completing my recent 7 state 3200 mile trip, I replaced my old front tire (Mitas E07 +) that had 16000 miles on it with a Dunlop Trailmax Mission to match the rear. The rear Trailmax currently has 9000 miles and is only about 1/3 of the way through the tread. I am very impressed with the performance of the rear tire, so I added the front. After a quick break in ride yesterday on a loose gravelly curvy road, I am impressed with the front too.
Front Mitas E07 + at 16000 miles. Could probably get several 1000 more if I pushed it. Pressure was 33 psi
New front
The rear with 9000 miles. 9/32 left.
Front Mitas E07 + at 16000 miles. Could probably get several 1000 more if I pushed it. Pressure was 33 psi
New front
The rear with 9000 miles. 9/32 left.
long time e07 fan but have thought of doing the same switch. My only hold back isi m not sure how it would do on loose stuff like fire roads in comparison. that big blocky pattern over the smaller e07 pattern
14kmtnman
Well-Known Member
At the same time of replacing the front tire, I also needed to change the differential seal on the splined/wheel side. This was at about 54000 miles on a 2013. I found a video of somebody using a a drill bit and a sheetmetal screw to remove the old seal. That was easy-peasy to do. I cleaned all of the splined surfaces, re lubricated and installed with new gear oil.
I did have a weird thing happen. After the trip the bike sat for a couple of days before getting washed. Then it sat for several more days, until the replacement diff seal arrived. I turned the key on and got nothing. No fuel pump, no lights, nothing. I thought the battery was completely dead. Both my 50+ year old battery charger and multimeter died at the same time. Another delay. Once the battery was charged back up, I was not able to find any blown fuses or worn thru wires. The voltage hasn't dropped in the last day or 2 so I'm hoping that it was just a fluke. It could be that taking the fuses out and in along with unplugging and replugging several connections was the issue. I guess I'll find out.
I did have a weird thing happen. After the trip the bike sat for a couple of days before getting washed. Then it sat for several more days, until the replacement diff seal arrived. I turned the key on and got nothing. No fuel pump, no lights, nothing. I thought the battery was completely dead. Both my 50+ year old battery charger and multimeter died at the same time. Another delay. Once the battery was charged back up, I was not able to find any blown fuses or worn thru wires. The voltage hasn't dropped in the last day or 2 so I'm hoping that it was just a fluke. It could be that taking the fuses out and in along with unplugging and replugging several connections was the issue. I guess I'll find out.
14kmtnman
Well-Known Member
GearDriven
New Member
- Mounted & balanced set of Michelin Road 6 tires - I've never run a 100% road tire on my S10, figure added safety for cold wet commutes
- Began replacement of steering head bearings - all bearing races removed
- Replaced rear seal in final drive - first drips ever at 101k miles. I was worried the shaft would be super corroded
Just a reminder for others. The shaft doesn't have to be removed to replace the hub seal. Also the old seal can be used as a driver and depth gauge.
Just search online for a service manual, but if you want to know it is a true OEM and not a copy, you likely need to order from Yamaha. Most you find online are cheaper good quality copies.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Last time I had the shaft off was lubing the suspension. It looked bad with surface rust, but it was just barely on the surface and cleaned up easily with no pitting or permanent scars. The water drain hole was clear and plugs in place, so it was from retained moisture. Not much you can do other than check and clean every couple years.
I should have also mentioned above, if you change the hub seal without removing the shaft, it may leak some oil and require changing or topping off.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
I should have also mentioned above, if you change the hub seal without removing the shaft, it may leak some oil and require changing or topping off.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
did a stud conversion to my engine plate mount bolts, and installed my T-rex skid plate and crashbar combo. Also installed a Color Clusterz film to the S10 really like the look.
Tracer 900/FJ-09 – ColorClusterz(states for tracer900 but fits the s10 same cluster)
Tracer 900/FJ-09 – ColorClusterz(states for tracer900 but fits the s10 same cluster)
Welp. Now that I know that's a thing. I ordered the LCD Flip kit. Thank you.
PineLaneRider
Well-Known Member
Yesterday afternoon I wiggled my Oxford heated grip connector. My right hand was cold yeterday morning at 35f. Nice and toasty this morninng! Amazing what one can accomplish with a wiggle!
Especially on the Dance Floor !
Boris
Well-Known Member
Just made sure that the ABS housing drains were clear. One had a bit of debris partially blocking the hole.
One of those things worth a check every now and again, especially if you off road a lot (which I don’t) .Not a good idea having the pump sitting in water if the drains are blocked.
One of those things worth a check every now and again, especially if you off road a lot (which I don’t) .Not a good idea having the pump sitting in water if the drains are blocked.