What you did to your Tenere today??!!

WJBertrand

Ventura Highway
Joined
Jun 20, 2015
Messages
4,535
Location
Ventura, CA
Still a month or so from being cleared to ride since my knee replacement but could not resist firing her up yesterday. She’s been sitting since mid-May. It took a few more revolutions than usual but she fired right up! Love that Li battery!

Anyway, I let her run through one fan on/off cycle to make sure she was fully warmed and shut her off. Now I’m wondering if I should have started her - I’m even more impatient to ride than before!


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lund

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2019
Messages
811
Location
Okanagan Valley, Canada.
The OE seat do need break in, if you can tolerate the time i'm finding out that the seat get's more comfortable as mileage pile on. When I first got the bike I could hardly tolerate 1 1/2hrs, now I can easily do 3hrs of solid riding and by 4hrs I start feeling it.
The bike was bought new and now has 27,000kms, If by 30,000km I'm not satisfied I might look into a full seat replacement, but I'm hoping not to have to replace it.

BTW, If you do a lot of offroad with the S10, the worst thing you can do is the seat leveling mod IMO.
I know a lot of guys doit but the seat is design to move the rider into the fuel tank, keeping the rider in the proper seating position with the center of gravity of the bike. Riding off road in this position allows for better control and handling down fire roads (FSR). Standing like a gopher is good for negotiating obstacles and stretching on long hauls but otherwise hardly improves any bike handling.
For tarmac use then the seat mod is a good thing, most pavement riders sit back on their seat for comfort, unfortunately it puts the rider in a poor position for off road riding effecting handling thus resorting to standing for a more confident ride.
 
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liquidsmile

Member
Joined
May 27, 2022
Messages
54
Location
Georgia
RCinNC, I am about to do the same thing. My rear final drive oil seal is leaking. Well, not as much, but mine will look similar.
 

RCinNC

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2014
Messages
2,876
Location
North Carolina
It's hard to believe, but at just over 90,000 miles, I'm still on my original final drive seal. Even the original fork seals, which I preemptively replaced at 67,000 miles, weren't actually leaking. And I've logged a lot of miles in dust and dirt.

My age is starting to show, though. It took me 10 hours to disassemble everything, do all the cleaning and regreasing, and button it all back up again. I wish my parts were aging as well as the Yamaha's.
 

Sierra1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
15,029
Location
Joshua TX
The OE seat do need break in, if you can tolerate the time i'm finding out that the seat get's more comfortable as mileage pile on. When I first got the bike I could hardly tolerate 1 1/2hrs, now I can easily do 3hrs of solid riding and by 4hrs I start feeling it.
The bike was bought new and now has 27,000kms, If by 30,000km I'm not satisfied I might look into a full seat replacement, but I'm hoping not to have to replace it.

BTW, If you do a lot of offroad with the S10, the worst thing you can do is the seat leveling mod IMO.
I know a lot of guys doit but the seat is design to move the rider into the fuel tank, keeping the rider in the proper seating position with the center of gravity of the bike. Riding off road in this position allows for better control and handling down fire roads (FSR). Standing like a gopher is good for negotiating obstacles and stretching on long hauls but otherwise hardly improves any bike handling.
For tarmac use then the seat mod is a good thing, most pavement riders sit back on their seat for comfort, unfortunately it puts the rider in a poor position for off road riding effecting handling thus resorting to standing for a more confident ride.
1657474196958.png
 

liquidsmile

Member
Joined
May 27, 2022
Messages
54
Location
Georgia
It's hard to believe, but at just over 90,000 miles, I'm still on my original final drive seal. Even the original fork seals, which I preemptively replaced at 67,000 miles, weren't actually leaking. And I've logged a lot of miles in dust and dirt.

My age is starting to show, though. It took me 10 hours to disassemble everything, do all the cleaning and regreasing, and button it all back up again. I wish my parts were aging as well as the Yamaha's.
That’s amazing. This bike is a 2012, I have only owned it for a couple months, and has right at 17k on it.

I had it on the center stand while doing some small headlight and rear led mods. I was about to button it up and enjoy riding and noticed rear oil on my back tire. It had to have a small leak for awhile. On a recent road trip I noticed my back wheel was more dirty than it should be. Had a very uniform brake dust coating that was slightly oily.

I hear you on the aging.
 

Fennellg

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2015
Messages
611
Location
North Carolina
Fixed my Bumot Defender Aluminum Pannier. It was leaking and was annoying. I have a friend who lives in the Mountains near Hillsville VA. I ignored his warning about the GPS and this certain road. Of all the riders in the group I love gravel and a little dirt. The rest not so much. How bad could it be. By far the worst I have ever seen. That’s how bad. 4 of us and a side by side atv took 3 hours to get it to his house a mile or two away. Needless to say the bike fell over a few time and caused those seams to open up and leak.

Took me forever to figure out where the leak was. But I was looking at in the morning for the second or third time. I knew the general area of the leak. The cold caused the seam to open up. Bingo time to go to work. The devil had revealed himself. Sanded and Epoxyed. Hope it works.

E973A083-5264-47A5-AD6C-DDADB776D8D9.jpegBAFB019F-606B-4077-93F0-F8DF48560B90.jpeg1C45B72A-3D83-4593-85CF-C70955BD2671.jpeg42DD7514-6634-4E29-AA7A-24587EFA9B9A.jpeg256FE9C5-3EE3-4724-AC84-D767FAE19BCE.jpeg
 

Fennellg

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2015
Messages
611
Location
North Carolina
Good idea.

Leak was intermittent. It would be water tight when warm. The rain cooled down the case and the seam would open up. Kinda like the SR 71 Black Bird. It had to fueled in the air. The fuel tanks would leak until she got going and heat up. Once under way the tanks stayed warm from the speed and friction of the air. And thus did not leak once under way. Sealants would not work because of the Extreme heat from the speed.

Persistence paid off. Sometimes leaks and electrical problems are tricky bastards to figure out.
 
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scartozi

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2022
Messages
14
Location
Galena, OH
So I’m technically 2 days late, but better late than never

Installed the oval Delkevic 14” exhaust and I must say I’m really liking the sound. I’m coming from a 1700 v-twin that had straight pipes so to me Delkevic is “quiet”. I’ve only ridden it with the baffle in, however, I just took it out and now I’m anxious to give it a go. I rode about 80 miles yesterday and nothing melted. For reference it was 93°F and riding 2 up at an average of 65mph. When I got home and felt the turn signal it was warm, but not hot. Hopefully that doesn’t change much with the baffle out.

I’ve attached some pics and a measurement in case anyone is curious.





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Fennellg

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2015
Messages
611
Location
North Carolina
Just got my stash of oil filters in. The Mahle filters are equal if not better than the stock ones. Got these for 7 bucks each delivered. Last time it was $5 each. Supply shortages and inflation :(

Had to be flexible about the oil. Usually run Rotella T6 5w 40. T5 synthetic blend is all I could find. The reviews are good.

Don’t like hunting for a filter when changing oil. Now I may have to stock up on oil as well.

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Jlq1969

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 5, 2018
Messages
1,805
Location
Argentina
I don't want to “again” introduce a discussion about the lubricant… just say that JASO DH-2 is not even similar to JASO MA/MA2. Still, it's good to know that wet clutches run for many miles with any other good quality lube, even if it's not the JASO MA standard.
Rotella T6 5w40 is JASO MA/MA2…..and T5 10W30, too?
 
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RCinNC

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2014
Messages
2,876
Location
North Carolina
Well, I'm fairly certain that it's there to keep the pivot shaft nut from falling out of its recess in the frame, but I still haven't found out why Yamaha says it's necessary to remove it prior to loosening the pivot shaft.
 

liquidsmile

Member
Joined
May 27, 2022
Messages
54
Location
Georgia
That’s an interesting stand set up you have. Over the past week you have had both ends off the bike. Are you doing fork oil and valves this go around?
 
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