What you did to your Tenere today??!!

EricV

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Hopefully I don’t cause this to turn into a tire pressure thread but I have a question for EricV about the 36/42 pressures. Are those pressures tire specific or just what you run, not tire specific?
Those pressures have worked for me on all tires. From 50/50 Heidenau K60 Scouts to Michelin PR 5 Road/Trail and even Kenda Big Blocks and Pirelli Angel GTs. I ran that pressure on the FJR as well. I still would air down off pavement if the circumstances dictated, like wet, rutted, muddy on the Top of The World Hwy in Alaska or sand.
 

EricV

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I went for a test ride at those pressures and the bike was a completely different beast, it did not hesitate as much for leaning on corners, and responded more sharply to my inputs. I guess I've been riding the S10 the wrong way this last 10 months.

Thanks for the tip.
Glad it was useful for you. Tire pressure is one of those things that is dictated partly by load, but also by riding style and preference. I consider the owner's manual a great reference, but not the gospel handed down in stone tablet form. A starting point for any of us to experiment from until we find what works best for ourselves and our own needs. I did exactly what you did in the beginning, but saw faster wear and cupping so bumped it back up to my FJR pressures. Both bikes are about the same weight loaded, so that made sense to me.
 

BillWass

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Glad it was useful for you. Tire pressure is one of those things that is dictated partly by load, but also by riding style and preference. I consider the owner's manual a great reference, but not the gospel handed down in stone tablet form. A starting point for any of us to experiment from until we find what works best for ourselves and our own needs. I did exactly what you did in the beginning, but saw faster wear and cupping so bumped it back up to my FJR pressures. Both bikes are about the same weight loaded, so that made sense to me.
Great info here. Also, ran across this the other day. Just something more to consider.

Contact Patch: Recommended Motorcycle Tire Pressures are Wrong
 

Checkswrecks

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Checkswrecks I also know about towing. You need the upper end of the spectrum. Tire flex get compounded by tongue weight. The old rubber sand thing. A tire with beefier sidewalls is also recommended for both bike and trailer.
It sounds counter-intuitive, but while there more weight than solo, the trailer only adds about 30-40# so it's nearly like being solo most of the time. That is 10# of the total trailer so the bike rides better than when I have a passenger or the loaded side and top boxes. The BIG difference is in braking or if I make big on/off power changes in a corner.
 

Kyle_E

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Dumb question. Rather than starting a new thread.

Measure rear brake fluid on center stand or side? Im assuming center, but the owners manual does not specify.
 

Checkswrecks

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Took the center stand off a couple of years ago when I got the trailer because the hitch pushed the foot pedal down slightly and could ground in a tight left corner. If this were a chain bike, I'd want it for lubing the chain but very rarely miss it.
THEN:


NOW
 

Boris

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I like to mount and dismount on the center stand much more stable. I have always felt our side stands were made to short. The bike leans a lot. If a hill cuts the wrong way it becomes a bike tip over situation. I also like the center stand for tire repair and replacement. With all that said I am sure the benefit of your trailer out weighs any loss of function the center stand provides. Oh yeah fluid checks on side stand no bueno.
I may have misunderstood your post, but am curious how you get the bike on the centre stand, in order to dismount?
 

Cycledude

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About the only time I use centerstand is at home in garage or overnight at motel. I would definitely not be satisfied with no centerstand.
 

s.ga.rider

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I lubed by shifter on the last oil change. I checked it today again after 3k miles and a lot of dirt riding. Still plenty of grease on it. I cleaned it up and relubed then checked the brake lever. First time checking it and although it was working fine it had very minimal grease. Lubed it and will be changing the oils next week. Leaving to do the ma bdr on the 22nd.
 

Mak10

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Fixed the he slow bead leak in my front Mitas E07. It took multiple tries, removed the rubber casting “nubs”, cleaned the bead with a rag, a dish sponge, and finally got some fine emery cloth and sanded the bead in the spots it was leaking. That worked. My homemade bead breaker works well.185D35AE-1998-43F6-BE30-130C98896A88.jpeg3C498BD9-8292-44DD-A4C8-E23F7CB50432.jpegC01F7113-E27C-42E6-850F-B8E50F8B9171.jpeg
 

elricfate

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I started trying to remove the ES shock but damn if I can't figure out how to get it out without removing the rear wheel.

Am I missing something? Is there a step by step or something that the forum search isn't locating?

I mean, I got the rear shackle off, top bolt and bottom bolt, I just can't figure out how to twist out the shock from the top.
 
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Mak10

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How do you like the bead sealer? The FLAPS didn’t have any. How is it when breaking down the bead?
 
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