Davidr8 said:
Some of the Gen1 bikes had rapid wear on the clutch baskets, usually described as a vibration or roughness.
For the bikes which DID have the problem, the cure was to simply replace the basket with a Gen2 piece. Cost is a bit over $300.
What year?
- Thread starter Davidr8
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Some of the Gen1 bikes had rapid wear on the clutch baskets, usually described as a vibration or roughness.
For the bikes which DID have the problem, the cure was to simply replace the basket with a Gen2 piece. Cost is a bit over $300.
Davidr8
Member
Thanks!Checkswrecks said:
I'm still learning
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Clutch basket wasnt a wear issue. The original did harmonic compensation with various rate springs in the basket that were held in place with metal "shims". Rattled like crazy at idle and had a harmonic vibration through the bike at about 3800 rpm. It did no damage, just vibrated that some people found annoying (me).
the 14 on basket eliminated the springs and incorporated a bonded rubber damper in the clutch basket. Much better, no rattle, and solved the 3800 rpm harmonic vibe. All good.
the 14 on basket eliminated the springs and incorporated a bonded rubber damper in the clutch basket. Much better, no rattle, and solved the 3800 rpm harmonic vibe. All good.
Just completed a 9000 mile ride on my 2012 PDP bike. I had to stop for 20 minutes at an auto parts store and replace the headlight bulbs. Unreliable eh?
Actually when a rider doesn't recognize it and I am trying to explain it, I tell them it's like a GS except reliable.
Go for the best deal you can find and don't look back. The beauty of the Gen I as others have stated, if you buy used you can get a well farkled bike for $7k US or less. Crazy deals out there.
Actually when a rider doesn't recognize it and I am trying to explain it, I tell them it's like a GS except reliable.
Go for the best deal you can find and don't look back. The beauty of the Gen I as others have stated, if you buy used you can get a well farkled bike for $7k US or less. Crazy deals out there.
Davidr8
Member
For the first time in the four years I've owned my Tiger I adjusted the rebound damping.
I was looking to smooth out the harsh ride so did a bunch of reading on suspension adjustments.
I turned the adjuster all the way in (4 clicks) and then for starting purposes 10 clicks out.
This morning it's noticeably smoother with a bit of a wallow. I think I'll add a few clicks for the ride home.
That said, changing the setting dramatically improved the comfort level.
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I was looking to smooth out the harsh ride so did a bunch of reading on suspension adjustments.
I turned the adjuster all the way in (4 clicks) and then for starting purposes 10 clicks out.
This morning it's noticeably smoother with a bit of a wallow. I think I'll add a few clicks for the ride home.
That said, changing the setting dramatically improved the comfort level.
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Davidr8
Member
Edit: On the non-ES model:Bigbore4 said:
Is the rear shock adjustable for preload, rebound and compression or just preload and rebound?
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Never thought about it. I set the preload for the weight, and adjust the rest as needed for the road I'm on. Manual says dampening is for both front and rear. ('17 ES) It says that when preload is set, it will automatically set the dampening levels that were last set for the chosen preload. Wow! Sounds more confusing than it really is. For me, I have my dampening set to hard +3, and soft -3, and can change on the fly. That USUALLY covers what ever road condition I encounter.
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Non ES is Preload and Rebound. The non ES forks are adjustable for Preload, rebound and compression.Davidr8 said:
Davidr8
Member
ThanksBigbore4 said:
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