What should the Fork tube height be after lowering the rear 1"

[oldtramp]

I lowered mine 1" with Jaxons links, the bike fits me much better now as I can plant my feet firmly now. I ride with a passenger and this is must for me. I saw a while back 12cm was mentioned I have mine at 12cm to the top of tube not counting the cap. I had time yesterday for a short 200mi ride and did end up on some gravel I came off the tar around 50 or so and soon figured out I was going to fast there was 3 or 4 inchs of loose stuff and st was wagging all over. Was of course better standing on the pegs, I think it handled better before I lowered it. I will be changing to K60s soon as the battlewings are crap off road. I also forgot to take out of TC1 could that have caused the unpredictable wag. I was able to keep it up got about 20mi in and found some tar. Iam glad I didnt have the wife with me this time, but it would have been easier to pick up with the two of us

 

[jajpko]

I lowered mine 1" with Jaxons links, the bike fits me much better now as I can plant my feet firmly now. I ride with a passenger and this is must for me. I saw a while back 12cm was mentioned I have mine at 12cm to the top of tube not counting the cap. I had time yesterday for a short 200mi ride and did end up on some gravel I came off the tar around 50 or so and soon figured out I was going to fast there was 3 or 4 inchs of loose stuff and st was wagging all over. Was of course better standing on the pegs, I think it handled better before I lowered it. I will be changing to K60s soon as the battlewings are crap off road. I also forgot to take out of TC1 could that have caused the unpredictable wag. I was able to keep it up got about 20mi in and found some tar. Iam glad I didnt have the wife with me this time, but it would have been easier to pick up with the two of us

I have the same setup and I have 13mm to the top of cap. It handles great for me. If you firm up the rear or loosen, you may want to change.
Check the sag, both front and rear.

 

[oldtramp]

Thanks Jim, I have the forks a little stiff cause I dont care for the nose dive effect when on the brake hard. the cap appears to be a few cm's itself, I forgot to say it feels great on the road as is.

 

[troll]

There are a few things you can turn your mind to... stock the SupaT is considered to have pretty laid back geometry already. When you drop the rear by 25-30mm technically one would drop the front the same to hold the stock head angle. The fork tubes are shaped and will not allow this much drop on the front.

I have lowered mine in the rear with Wasp links and dropped the front by 17mm (not including the cap) which I think is the max due to the shape of the tubes. I have backed the front pre-load off all the way to get the front even lower (sag) and hence steepen the head angle. I keep the rear pre-load turned up a bit to help with the head angle as well. You can trim the bike front and rear with the pre-load to see how it steers and rolls in on corners. ::017::

 

[jajpko]

There are a few things you can turn your mind to... stock the SupaT is considered to have pretty laid back geometry already. When you drop the rear by 25-30mm technically one would drop the front the same to hold the stock head angle. The fork tubes are shaped and will not allow this much drop on the front.

I have lowered mine in the rear with Wasp links and dropped the front by 17mm (not including the cap) which I think is the max due to the shape of the tubes. I have backed the front pre-load off all the way to get the front even lower (sag) and hence steepen the head angle. I keep the rear pre-load turned up a bit to help with the head angle as well. You can trim the bike front and rear with the pre-load to see how it steers and rolls in on corners. ::017::

Everybody has there on preference for what they think is good. I had mine at 15mm in the front and did not like the drop at all. But going with 13mm made all the difference.. I recently made the rear a little softer and that changed the whole setup..

 

[Twisties]

Oh, well, the wife finally rode the SupaT. Now, you know, I am having to think about things like low seats and lowering links and this.

To clarify, for the uninitiated, such as myself, this would involve loosening the clamps on the forks, the ones near the horn, and allowing the bike to settle down on them (raising forks, lowering bike) the specified/chosen amount, then re-torquing the clamps in the new position? Anything else involved? Anyone know the torque settings right off hand?

Thanks,

Jan

 

[Dirt_Dad]

I found raising the forks 13.4mm makes my wife's Tenere handle exactly like my stock height bike. Her bike is using Jaxon's 1" lowering links.

 

[Twisties]

I found raising the forks 13.4mm makes my wife's Tenere handle exactly like my stock height bike. Her bike is using Jaxon's 1" lowering links.

Thanks DD. Do I have the procedure correct? Loosen clamps, move, retorque, or is there more to it?

 

[jajpko]

Oh, well, the wife finally rode the SupaT. Now, you know, I am having to think about things like low seats and lowering links and this.

To clarify, for the uninitiated, such as myself, this would involve loosening the clamps on the forks, the ones near the horn, and allowing the bike to settle down on them (raising forks, lowering bike) the specified/chosen amount, then re-torquing the clamps in the new position? Anything else involved? Anyone know the torque settings right off hand?

Thanks,

Jan

When you do the forks, you have to loosen both the top and bottom trees. After putting the bike on the center stand, I use a screw jack, and raise the bike up just enough to take the weight off. Loosen the bolts just enough to let the fork move, and start to lower the jack.
You'll need something to measure with so you get this exact. Start with 10mm from the top of the tree to the top of the cap.
Do this on both sides until they are the same.

I'm sure I'm forgetting something but not looking at the bike now.
The torque is
lower bracket....14lbs
upper bracket....19lbs
I do this in steps side to side bottom and side to side top.. When everything measures exactly the same, do this..

When you do this, you should also loosen the front wheel and reset it.

Loosen the pinch bolts, go from outside to inside. just loosen the axle, don't remove it. Hold the brake and push the front down a few times.
Tighten the axle bolt to...52lbs
Hold the brake and push the front down a few more times.
Next tighten the pinch bolts.
Start with the inside bolt and tighten to 15lbs at one time and then tighten the outside bolt to 15lbs at one time and you are done with that.

Go back and check your measurements..

I've put some steps in that I don't do every time, but it won't hurt to do, for your first time.

Check you sag and how the bike rides and turns. It should be close to stock. For me it was a little to slow on the turn in.
If you want it a little quicker, try 12mm or 13mm. When doing this, 1 or 2 mm can make a big change.

good luck

 

[Twisties]

Thanks! Sounds like something I can do.

 

[3putt]

I have done it without a jack, loosen only one side and pump fork to get it to move up. Tighten, then loosen the other one. Jack is the easier/safe way tho. Torque for top pinch bolt is 19 ft/lbs, lower pinch bolts 14 ft/lbs.

 

[S10MOM]

I have Jaxon's links on my bike, and the forks are lowered 13mm.
It feels same as stock, and it feels great to be able to get my feet down a bit more.
Still on my toes, but now my toes and almost the balls of my feet are solid on the ground. Much better.

I can still get the bike on the centerstand without much more effort, so I'm holding off before doing any mods to that.