Wet weather issues.

Daviedevs

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Disaster! Took bike to work today and on way home in a horrid down pour the bike cut out.

The only way I could keep it running was to rev hard but when I did this the orange engine light stayed on all the way home. Once home I pressed the starter and the bike fired up but unless I revved it hard it cut out. Again the light stayed on.

Any ideas?
 

Dogdaze

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Check for electrical connections, also battery may be on the way out, if the battery is weak, it would not be enough to give the EFI the juice it needs to keep running, so high revs will provide a bit more voltage. This is only one option, there may well be more theories or solutions that will be offered............ hopefully.
 

Daviedevs

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Thanks for that. The battery is the original but has been on an optimate from day 1 and always passes the optimates test/charge test.

How long should a battery last?

Anyone else had battery issues?
 

WJBertrand

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I've had mine in a couple of torrential downpours without it missing a beat. Wonder if water got down into the spark plug tunnels? Have you pulled the codes from the ECU? Beats guessing where the issue is...
 

WJBertrand

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You have to follow the instructions in the service manual to get into the diagnostics menu. I don't know step by step how to do it, but it's in the manual.


-Jeff
 

Daviedevs

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Code 12 appears when the bike is running but nothing else. I decided to b a new battery just in case but still. Have the same issue...bike starts ok but once warmed up just dies.

Think I'll take it to tuner guy who fitted my PC5 first before handing Yamaha my cash.
 

Dogdaze

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I think the code 12 is the crank shaft sensor, however, others (Yamaha owners) have found it to be the starter relay at fault, so try that first. Also, if you disconnect the PC5, will it run normally?
 

silvergoose

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I think, DogDaze and others are correct-the battery voltage is low. Verify the battery via a load test. I have found that battery chargers with out a circuit to analyze the real need of the battery, will destroy a battery. A coil housing crack may have part to play, but IMO only very small.

Good Luck
 

EricV

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if the Optimate is passing the battery, I'd not be looking there. I have an Optimate too, and my original batteries have lasted 10 years with life on the Optimate.

You didn't do the very first step in the diagnostic process - UNPLUG THE PC5. Well know for having issues if wet.

The process that should work for your bike to get into diagnostic and check the codes is as follows:

1) Set the kill switch to "Off"
2) Press both dash buttons together and then turn the ignition on. Hold the buttons for about 10 seconds until the display clears and either "Co" or "Diag" is displayed.
3) If "Co" is displayed, (as it would if you had last adjusted the Co settings), press the left button to swap it to "Diag".
4) Now press both buttons again for about 3 seconds and "d:01" will appear where the clock was. On top of this a number will appear to the left of it, (where the ODO is). This number is the fault code if any for that specific function. Each d:XX has it's own particular part of the bike that it reports on.
5) Now press either the left or right buttons to scroll through d:01 to d:70, (there are gaps). Both buttons do it, one simply goes forward, the other backwards.
6) The Diags we are interested in are d:61 and d:62. 61 is the list of codes present, 62 is the number of faults and the clear faults one.
7) Scroll through until you reach d:61 and watch. If any number of other than 00 appears, then you have fault codes reported. These are historical so you may have more than one code if the old codes were not cleared after a previous issue. The reading will slowly scroll thru all the fault codes present if there are more than one.

Common codes are 14 (blocked or open air tube), which is the vacuum hose that connects the throttle bodies and we use when syncing them. The caps get old and crack, leaking air into the system, (and water during heavy rain), which can cause a number of issues, and throw this code. Oil in the airbox drain tube can sometimes also cause this if it's excessive. 69 is wheel sensors, sometimes triggered if the magnetic sensor comes in contact with metal when out for a wheel/tyre change. 30 is the lean angle sensor and will show if you've had the bike on it's side, which is not so uncommon.

80 Move on to d:62 after recording your fault code(s). d:62 will show the number of codes present, (1, 2, 3, etc., not the code numbers). Now turn your kill switch to "Run". This will reset the codes to 00.
9) Turn the ignition off. You exit diagnostic mode and upon next key on, the dash will read normally. If you have issues that have not been corrected, the codes will re-occur the next time you run the bike. Some codes will take some riding time to appear, others appear immediately.

Hope that helps M8, but I'd unplug that PC5 and go for a ride first before letting Yamaha have a go at it.
 

Daviedevs

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Thanks for that. The pc plug is under the tank so I'm not going there. I completely trust my yam engineer so in happy to let him have a look.
 

Daviedevs

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Bike now at Yamaha. No fault found from the diagnostic check??

PC5 being disconnected today and hopefully an answer will be found.
 

Rasher

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I would say pull the PC5 as the first thing, in my experience electrical add-ons are often less reliable and more prone to water ingress than the stuff that comes with the bike.

First troubleshooting step should always be remove / disconnect these extra's.

I too have ridden in some pretty harsh rain without issues and several folk have crossed rivers on their S10 and many more ridden off-road though deep puddles, generally the S10 is very waterproof.
 

Daviedevs

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Yes the PC5 is being disconnected to try that option...but even with it connected it should ive off a fault code of some sort..according to the Yam technician.
 

EricV

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Cycledude said:
What is PC5 ?
Aftermarket fuel/timing controller that piggybacks onto the oem ECU. Power Commander 5 = PC5.
 
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