TPS
- Thread starter stutrump
- Start date
The garage is ready and waiting.
We shall go straight to the TPS and check it with the multimeter.
Checking the TPS in situ we shall:
Remove TPS connector and check resistance of TPS is within limits, if not replace. If it is then check the supply voltage is present, it should be 5V, if not then check continuity. If it is then check the output voltage of the "variable" pin by operating the throttle, there should be a smooth linear increase in voltage from approx +0.2V up to +4.8V. If not then replace.
Then we check the APS with the same routine.
ATB
We shall go straight to the TPS and check it with the multimeter.
Checking the TPS in situ we shall:
Remove TPS connector and check resistance of TPS is within limits, if not replace. If it is then check the supply voltage is present, it should be 5V, if not then check continuity. If it is then check the output voltage of the "variable" pin by operating the throttle, there should be a smooth linear increase in voltage from approx +0.2V up to +4.8V. If not then replace.
Then we check the APS with the same routine.
ATB
Don in Lodi
Well-Known Member
Founding Member
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
::008::Nissbird said:
Ok, so we checked the TPS then APS
The TPS was within specification
The APS was out of specification - 0.9K when it should be between 1.2K and 2.8K
I suspect the 0.9K indicates a short in one of the potentiometers of the APS.
Helpful notes:
We could not check the output voltages of the sensors because the engine had to be running for the butterflies to open so we had to rely on resistance values.
We realised that we could have found the problem a lot quicker had we removed the ECU and check the sensors via one of the ECU plugs and this should have been the first step.
Tools needed apart from allen keys and sockets:
Multimeter
2 paper clips
Hope this may help others
The TPS was within specification
The APS was out of specification - 0.9K when it should be between 1.2K and 2.8K
I suspect the 0.9K indicates a short in one of the potentiometers of the APS.
Helpful notes:
We could not check the output voltages of the sensors because the engine had to be running for the butterflies to open so we had to rely on resistance values.
We realised that we could have found the problem a lot quicker had we removed the ECU and check the sensors via one of the ECU plugs and this should have been the first step.
Tools needed apart from allen keys and sockets:
Multimeter
2 paper clips
Hope this may help others
Don in Lodi
Well-Known Member
Founding Member
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
You can't manually open the throttle plates? They're still cable actuated, even though it's from a module. Hmm, twin cables, maybe not. Looking forward to how the story ends... hopefully. ::26:: [Nissbird said:
Hi Don,
Having worked with the throttle bodies today, I can state:
One can open the butterflies when the ignition is switched off using the mechanism on the side of the TB.
The stepper motor is activated with the ignition switched on, so they cannot be moved.
Twisting the throttle without the engine running has no effect upon the butterflies.
How it works IMHO:
The cables turn the APS
The APS tells the ECU
The ECU tells the stepper motor to turn the butterflies
The butterflies turn the TPS
The TPS tells the ECU were the butterflies are.
Having worked with the throttle bodies today, I can state:
One can open the butterflies when the ignition is switched off using the mechanism on the side of the TB.
The stepper motor is activated with the ignition switched on, so they cannot be moved.
Twisting the throttle without the engine running has no effect upon the butterflies.
How it works IMHO:
The cables turn the APS
The APS tells the ECU
The ECU tells the stepper motor to turn the butterflies
The butterflies turn the TPS
The TPS tells the ECU were the butterflies are.
Hi folks.
Firstly a MASSIVE thanks to Nissbird for giving your time so freely to me this afternoon.
Secondly, an apology to Nissbird that you beat me too it (posting the results).
Busy couple of days for me now, but I will get the APS ordered asap and hope that when the new one is in my bike will be back to normal.
I will look forward to any more comments about our findings and I will of course update you all when a new APS is in the bike. Thanks again Nissbird. You're a top guy!!
Firstly a MASSIVE thanks to Nissbird for giving your time so freely to me this afternoon.
Secondly, an apology to Nissbird that you beat me too it (posting the results).
Busy couple of days for me now, but I will get the APS ordered asap and hope that when the new one is in my bike will be back to normal.
I will look forward to any more comments about our findings and I will of course update you all when a new APS is in the bike. Thanks again Nissbird. You're a top guy!!
Don in Lodi
Well-Known Member
Founding Member
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Almost identical to the throttle by wire autos, the two position sensors have to be in sync or you're SOL.Nissbird said:
Thats something Im worried about when fitting a new one because I think their range/calibration?..has to be set eithin certain paramaters shown on the console and of course my console doesn't work. Aaarrgghh! Any ideas folks?
Don in Lodi
Well-Known Member
Founding Member
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
There's prolly not much adjustment there, not like the older vehicles where you could adjust over a half volt range. With the evap controls we have these days I don't believe anybody makes the mounting holes slotted any more. I haven't adjusted a tps in years. Getting the digital part calibrated, I'm trying to remember if I had to do a calibration for the last gas pedal assembly I did. The other tech has done a couple throttle body servos, I don't remember any calibrating being needed. This is all automotive...stutrump said:
Dear all.
Finally after about 6 months of riding a coughing and spluttering bike I THINK I've sorted it.
Thanks to Nissbird who diagnosed a faulty APS (NOT TPS!!)
I have been too busy recently to even order a new APS but I rode past a bike breakers the other day and picked up a used APS from a 2007-2008 R1
It even looks a bit different but I've just plugged it in and all seems well.
Yee-ha!!!!! Maybe my bike will make it to 100,000 after all.
Thanks folks
Finally after about 6 months of riding a coughing and spluttering bike I THINK I've sorted it.
Thanks to Nissbird who diagnosed a faulty APS (NOT TPS!!)
I have been too busy recently to even order a new APS but I rode past a bike breakers the other day and picked up a used APS from a 2007-2008 R1
It even looks a bit different but I've just plugged it in and all seems well.
Yee-ha!!!!! Maybe my bike will make it to 100,000 after all.
Thanks folks
Dogdaze
Well-Known Member
::008:: ::003::