Torque wrench - any recommendations?

[xylo66]

I have the 'micrometer' version ( from Machine Mart here in the UK ) and looking at getting a more reliable model. The range needs to be from 6-150 Nm for the S-10. Any recommendations ? " analogue " or digital?

The prices seem to vary from £80 all the way to £250 / £280 ( toolstoday.co.uk - http://toolstoday.co.uk/shop.php?sec=cat&cat=49 ) .

Thanks
Chris
Swindon
UK

 

[timothy.davis]

This is just for your consideration. I do torque wrench recommendation as part of my job for the Navy. I think you will find this a common practice throughout the industry. We will not recommend a torque wrench to be used below 20% of its full scale rating. In your case you would need a 0 to 30 Nm for the 6 to 30 Nm range and a 0 to 150 Nm to cover the 30 to150 Nm range. The accuracy is not determined by it being digital or analogue. The manufacture will state the accuracy 2%, 3% ,4% ect... We usually use four percent for general maintenance. They will some time give you either a clockwise, counter clock wise, or both option. Usually clockwise is sufficient and most common. The percent of accuracy will be stated in either percent of full scale reading or percent of indicated value. The percent of indicate value will be more precise and probably more expensive. It just depends on what you want.

 

[xylo66]

Thanks for the idea or thoughts expressed. I am simply looking for an alternative to what is like trying to line up the sights / lines of a micrometer ! I do fully agree with you about the ranges and basically, there are no wrenches that cover the needs of the S-10. There are loads between 5-7 Nm and then there are plenty around 30-40 and the axle ones around the 72 / 125 mark. So, quite a range. Still , thanks for the input.

 

[scott123007]

Except for bearing caps and cylinder heads torquing is over rated. I don't mean that it is useless by any means, it's just not imperative. Use common sense with most fasteners and you'll be fine. If you are working on your own stuff, you should already have a clue about tightening sequence and what feels right.

 

[Wanderer]

Howdy,
Sorry Scott 123007 but if that's your "take" on torquing you can't be much of a mechanic. Besides not stripping out threads you want it tight enough so it does not come loose. Some bearings like wheel bearings require that they be torqued to a specific preload. xylo66, if you buy a spring loaded wrench make sure you return it to "0" when done so the spring does not take a set. Whatever kind you do buy you want the middle of the torque wrench to be the sweet spot. Torque wrenches loose accuracy when you get to their upper and lower limits. Also price wise a good middle of the road wrench might be better than a more expensive one since you will occasionally need to have the wrench checked for accuracy. That calibration cost could be the same as a middle of the road torque wrench so at that point if the middle of the road wrench does go out of whack, just toss it and replace. Check around you should be able to find a good tool shop that will have a gauge to check the accuracy of your torque wrench about once every year or two.
Later,
Norm

 

[xylo66]

Thanks Norm. Makes total sense to me.

I like to feel by hand ( doesn't sound quite right ...but in the sense that most mechanics " just know" when its close to the correct tension. Unfortunately, I don't work as a mechanic as my trade and so in my opinion it doesn't harm using a good wrench. Fully agree with you about the 0 to lessen the tension on the spring. Thanks for the pointers guys.

 

[autoteach]

for anything besides absolutely critical torque values (like engine fasteners), a simple little bit of math can help: your weight / torque required x 12 (for inches)= where you need to stand on the wrench. now, not everything is going to require that type of torque, but I can assure you that if you have a solid feel for torque values you can do pretty well without. I think a good example is early single cylinder honda's. The cylinder head studs are 12 inch long 6mm thread. They simply cannot be torqued to the value stated. It doesn't ever get there. this is directly related to the new connecting rod bolt standard for torquing, which is to use rod bolt stretch and not torque at all. I could talk for some amount of time on vector force analysis, bolt stretch/twist/friction with mating surfaces, etc etc etc but you would all be bored.

Take the time to put some antisieze, or another lubricant, on any critical fastener to achieve correct bolt/fastener tension (what is really desired when torquing).

 

[scott123007]

Howdy,
Sorry Scott 123007 but if that's your "take" on torquing you can't be much of a mechanic. Besides not stripping out threads you want it tight enough so it does not come loose. Some bearings like wheel bearings require that they be torqued to a specific preload. xylo66, if you buy a spring loaded wrench make sure you return it to "0" when done so the spring does not take a set. Whatever kind you do buy you want the middle of the torque wrench to be the sweet spot. Torque wrenches loose accuracy when you get to their upper and lower limits. Also price wise a good middle of the road wrench might be better than a more expensive one since you will occasionally need to have the wrench checked for accuracy. That calibration cost could be the same as a middle of the road torque wrench so at that point if the middle of the road wrench does go out of whack, just toss it and replace. Check around you should be able to find a good tool shop that will have a gauge to check the accuracy of your torque wrench about once every year or two.
Later,
Norm

Norm, I appreciate your confidence in my mechanical abilities (lol) and am well aware of why fasteners get torqued. My point was that most fasteners are not so critical as to have an adverse effect on the performance or longevity of that which they are fastening, if tightened with common sense. People without some mechanical aptitude, probably shouldn't be working on that kind of stuff in the first place. If you are unsure of the fasteners ability to stay in place, and are worried about over tightening it, you can always use a dab of locktite for security. Although there are fasteners that shouldn't be locktited, (spokes, for instance, lol) many, can.
As Autoteach alluded to, torque values are almost always with lubricant, but to take that even a step further, what type of lubricant can even make a difference. Just by using an antiseize compound on a fastener, you may have to reduce the torque value by as much as 20%.

 

[Kelvininin]

Except for bearing caps and cylinder heads torquing is over rated. I don't mean that it is useless by any means, it's just not imperative. Use common sense with most fasteners and you'll be fine. If you are working on your own stuff, you should already have a clue about tightening sequence and what feels right.

Could not have seen it stated better.

It always blows my mind when someone strips a thread using a torque wrench.

 

[duranged2001]

Check out Precision Instruments. They build them when ordered, and are a leeetle expensive, but they're very accurate and easy to use. I have the inch-pound model D2F200HL. It has the perfect range for all of the ST's smaller fasteners. For larger fasteners, I use a less accurate, run of the mill clicker.

Dave

 

[autoteach]

As Autoteach alluded to, torque values are almost always with lubricant, but to take that even a step further, what type of lubricant can even make a difference. Just by using an antiseize compound on a fastener, you may have to reduce the torque value by as much as 20%.

By "reduced torque value" you mean "input torque required", right? I only want to clarify for the uninitiated so they understand if completely. Also, there is 3 different antisieze compounds that I know of: copper, graphite, and molybdenum disulfide- each with there own CoF. I try to make sure that I only use what is recommended for the situation, but occasionally when fastening something you can feel that the bolt is not sliding on "the ramps" and needs a lubricant. As for different lubes...even different oils can give a different tension due to the different chemical contents in each oil. Man, this is actually a really good topic. If I was teaching my students about this right now I would use at least 5 different graphs to cover the necessary components of this discussion from coefficient of frictions to modulus of elasticity of bolt material.... so much fun!!

 

[xylo66]

Just to clarify a small point here. The reason I raised this thread was simply to ask which particular brand / device as a torque wrench is being used by S-10 owners. I appreciate that in theory, a few S-10 owners know a lot about the ins and outs of material strengths and torque values etc. etc. However, a few suggestions on actual device would be helpful also so that those of us who enjoy tinkering and wish to use toque wrenches can benefit from the advice and experience of others who have used good kit. For example, not all digital wrenches work well or don't last long or some models better than others. That would be more useful to us S-10 owners.

Thanks
Chris

 

[Siseneg]

This forum is awesome. ::013:: I've used several kinds and brands in my time. Dials, digitals and the basic displacement gauge type where the needle deflects across the face of a gauge. My preference these days is a clicker/micro clicker where you get a 'snap' at the preset torque. I like it because you don't have to stare at anything for feedback and can use them in places where you'd have to crane around to look at a dial. Generally, more money means better acccuracy. Armstrong and Digitools for over $200 or Sears for $40? ... depends on your comfort level with 'close enough' and 'motorcycle tight'. I have the craftsman set. Practice helps too. Set you wrench wrong and you'll strip or break a bolt unless you've a good feel for what ought to be 'about right' for the fasteners in use.

 

[scott123007]

@ xylo66... Yeah, sorry to hijack your thread of sorts. I think it was all pretty well covered though. 1.) Brand name is not as important as the advertised accuracy of the wrench. 2.) You need at least TWO torque wrenches to properly cover the "spread" of torque values on the S-10 because of the proper "useable range" of a torque wrench. 3.) ALL torque wrenches need to be calibrated at one time or another. 4.) A torque wrench that is out of calibration will do more harm than good. 5.) If the "tinkerer" needs a torque wrench for every nut and bolt being tightened, because the tinkerer doesn't feel comfortable without one, the tinkerer just MIGHT want to TINKER on something else

@ Autoteach...Many years ago, I had an Imperial bolt Torque Chart hanging on my wall. What always stuck in my mind, was a little note on the bottom of the chart that specifically stated that "values" should be "reduced" by 20% when using antiseize. What type of antiseize I do not know, but there was no doubt in my mind that what that meant was if a bolts maximum torque value was 20ftlbs, with regular torquing lube, it should only be 16ftlbs with antiseize on it. It always made sense to me for the same reason that torquing without a lubricant at all, will net a higher ftlbs "reading" to acheive the same clamping force as torquing with lube.

 

[autoteach]

@ Autoteach...Many years ago, I had an Imperial bolt Torque Chart hanging on my wall.

Does that have anything to do with the Imperial Guard and the Death Star? ::015::

As for regular maintenance items, the only one that I can think of that would need a torque wrench is the steering head bearings. Besides that, not needed...but if you can't do these without a torque wrench ya probably shouldn't work on it. Second, if you want the most consistent over time, get a torque wrench that relies on deflection or twist of a material... i.e. a dial or a beam. Clickers are great for stuff like lugs where a 20 ft lb difference in torque doesn't really matter. They do take more time to use, but they can sit in your tool box for 100 years and still be just as accurate (just not the single most accurate, but in this case it may be improving a knuckle dragger to a knuckle head, so who is counting).

 

[Spider]

I have a couple of Proxxon "micro click" torque wrenches that work just fine. But I'm no torque wrench expert, just like Proxxon tools. For years, I used a couple of old Sears beam-style torque wrenches. Even though that style isn't as cool as the new ones, and they may not be as accurate, I preferred the "analog" visual indication which supplements the feel as a bolt is being tightened. You do have to be a bit more careful with the beam-style wrenches, can't just throw them in the tool bag without eventually damaging them.

Good luck!

G

 

[Wanderer]

Howdy,
xylo66 that was what I got out of your initial posting. I would recommend a Craftsman clicker if you want a brand specific one. And sorry for my harsh response Scott but working on motorcycles is not some mystic science that you need to be born with a calibrated elbow to do. If you talk to new owners that is one of their biggest concerns is how tight is tight? So I tell them get a shop manual and a couple of middle of the road cost wise torque wrenches and give it a shot. With practice you will get better. Don’t be put off by the “well meaning”. Also, beside steering stem bearings I would recommend any assemblies with bearings in them, such as wheel axles. Also caliper slider bolts and any other fastener that over the life of the motorcycle will be removed and reinstalled over and over again such as oil drain plugs with “crush” washers.
Later,
Norm

 

[xylo66]

Thanks for the responses. Great to know. Much appreciated ::008::

 

[Rasher]

I have three Norbar wrenches, great quality at fair price ::008::

One of them would do most things, but I collected them over a few years starting with one that did 90% of what I needed, but did not go high enough for wheel spindles (I had an ancient cheapo car one for that) I next got a higher range unit and last added a low range one - as per the recomendation to not use the lowest 20% or so of a wrenches range.

I use them for most things as I do not think anyone is that accurate by "feel" especially as the length of a wrench / spanner and where you hold it can massively change the force, I want to know my brakes won't fall off and I ain't gonna end up with a real engineering challenge by stripping a thread.

Drop by if you wanna have a look at them - or need something torqued up ::008::

 

[jajpko]

Since no one has mentioned this wrench I will.. I have the one shown in the url and really like it. I also use one in a lower range.
You can shop the net and find great deals on these wrenches.

http://www.torqwrench.com/tools/item.php?StockCode=C2FR100F