Synthetic Oil? Not the BEST choice

[Checkswrecks]

You may very well be correct. Ultimately we tend to focus on the wrong question in oil threads. Instead of asking, "What is the oil I should use?", we should ask, "What oil should I not use?" Assuming a rider selects an oil that meets the specifications provided by the bike manufacturer, then it would be hard to find a brand of oil (dino, blend or synthetic) that will not perform well.

And that really is the bottom line. While we know by vast experience that numerous oils will do just fine, properly the oils to not use are properly those which do not meet the MA requirements of Yamaha for these engines. I have three jugs of Rotella T6 in the garage and plan to use them when needed. They are marked MA, are fully synthetic, and I have no qualms about using them.


Beyond that, it doesn't matter how much you pay or what you think, your warranty is void if you don't use an MA oil. btw - it's easy to see what you used by doing some chemical tests of leftover oil or deposits if your engine blows up. That said, I've run Mobil1 and numerous other oils of all types, and am sure that at some point will again.

 

[RonH]

I've had oil analysis done on 10w30 Rotella in both semi synthetic and dino to compare virgin samples and Blackstone could not tell one bit of difference in them in formulation. GL1800 Honda says use 10w30. No advantage I could detect running semi synthetic over dino except easier to find and buy semi synthetic. I wish Rotella would make a 10w40 oil for use in the Tenere, but they don't. 5w40 is really thin oil, mostly when sheared after a few thousand miles. 15w40 dino much better, but 15w no good in winter. Why not 10w40? Use a motorcycle oil in the Tenere be it dino or semi or synthetic a better choice since HD oils don't come in the correct viscosity. Rotella did make a T5 semi synthetic in 10w40 but not MA rated, and could never be found in stores, now all the T5 in the 40 has gone to 15w40. Like we need another 15w40 oil to compliment the other 350 choices.
Anyone want to read about 5w40 Rotella, go over to bobistheoilguy forums and see. I don't feel warm and fuzzy feelings running a 5w20 oil, and that is what happens to that 5w40 synthetic in a couple thousand miles. Good wear numbers though, so I guess thin oil is OK, but I stay away from 5w40 MA or not, doesn't make it any better suited to a motorcycle.
My opinions after reading the data.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Ron brought up a good point about viscosity and I'd forgotten the Rotella jugs I mentioned in my garage are 5-40. I consider it to be winter-only for the bike but it'll be fine in the truck.

 

[Spork]

Ron brought up a good point about viscosity and I'd forgotten the Rotella jugs I mentioned in my garage are 5-40. I consider it to be winter-only for the bike but it'll be fine in the truck.

Depends on how many miles you're putting up per year. Between my FJR and S10 I only get 1-2 thousand miles on each per year. With that in mind, I really don't see any point in worrying about shear for my Rotella 5w40.

I am considering switching to Mobil 1, but that is only because I am trying to find something that will help both my bikes shift smoother, so far no luck with Rotella or Castrol 4T (10w40 dyno).

 

[OldRider]

HP4 blend.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Depends on how many miles you're putting up per year. Between my FJR and S10 I only get 1-2 thousand miles on each per year. With that in mind, I really don't see any point in worrying about shear for my Rotella 5w40.

I am considering switching to Mobil 1, but that is only because I am trying to find something that will help both my bikes shift smoother, so far no luck with Rotella or Castrol 4T (10w40 dyno).

LOL - I did 600 over last weekend.

 

[Spork]

LOL - I did 600 over last weekend.

I know I suck, been wedding season so not much time on the bike. :'(

 

[Ramseybella]

What are you high mileage guys using?
Problem solved.. ::017::

 

[JRE]

What are you high mileage guys using?
Problem solved.. ::017::

You need to add: and how often are you changing the oil? ;D

 

[VRODE]

Always used 5W-40 Rotella T6 in the FZ1. I change it often enough that life was not an issue, but I wanted an oil that would have enough low viscosity to get up to the valve train quickly on startup. I had read a good article about viscosity and it's effect on mitigating wear on Ferrari valvetrains. I have the same concerns with the S10 in that I would like the oil activated CCT working as quick as possible after startup. Seems like a lower viscosity (5W40 vs15W40) might promote faster reacting CCT but this could be misplaced speculation on my part.

 

[Langolier]

I put on about 6,000 - 8,000 mi per year. Change oil once a year. Of all the bike and oil combinations I have had thru the years I have found that with Amsoil my bikes shift better (longer) between oil changes (yes I do keep my shift linkage greased). Not sayin it's the best but just sayin. Definitely not the cheapest either.

 

[jimmy z]

I switched from amsoil syn.to rotella t6 at 30k.I now have 40k on and the only thing I notice different is the extra cash I have in my pocket.I do notice smother shifting with both oils after oil change.t6 has $5.00@ gallon off I believe till end of year up to 3 gallon rebate.

 

[Langolier]

I usually try to stick with motorcycle oil (which unfortunately is why its more expensive)

quote:
"Motorcycle oils and passenger car oils are very similar, with the exception of a couple of areas that are key to motorcycle operation. The first area concerns common sumps, or the use of motor oil, to lubricate and cool the transmission. As you know, in a passenger car the transmission is lubricated by an ATF fluid, which has frictional properties required for transmission operation. In a motorcycle, where the engine oil may lubricate the transmission, an engine oil that does not have the same level of friction modification of a typical passenger car engine oil that will provide better transmission performance in terms of transmission lock-up and slippage. So motorcycle engine oil does not contain the friction modifiers of a passenger car engine oil. The second area of concern for motorcycle engine oils is that they tend to shear (break down viscosity) more quickly than a typical passenger car. Motorcycle oils are designed to provide exceptional protection against viscosity loss."

I used to run "car oil" (Mobil 1) but noticed half way thru my oil change cycle the shifting would get progressively worse. I guess I attributed it to "viscosity loss" and have stuck with motorcycle oil ever since. Oil is a moot argument, Do what ever works for you.

 

[Ramseybella]

I switched from amsoil syn.to rotella t6 at 30k.I now have 40k on and the only thing I notice different is the extra cash I have in my pocket.I do notice smother shifting with both oils after oil change.t6 has $5.00@ gallon off I believe till end of year up to 3 gallon rebate.

Good stuff T-6 55k no issues! ::008::
I hate Oil threads, senseless rambling about how wet my oil is and slippage with car oil viscosity breakdown.
Chang your oil every 3k to 4k with what works for all and all will be well.
If it was a MV Agusta F4 I could see the issue!!